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KILKEE
CO. CLARE · IE

Kilkee
Cill Chaoi

The Wild Atlantic Way
STOP 03 / 06
Cill Chaoi · Co. Clare

A horseshoe bay that faces America and doesn't pretend otherwise.

Kilkee is the largest town on the Loop Head peninsula, which is not saying much — the peninsula trails off into the Atlantic like a sentence that forgets where it started. But the bay is real and specific: a horseshoe of sand and flat rock, protected by the Duggerna Reef, enclosed by low cliffs on both sides, open to the west. The Victorian hotels knew what they were doing when they set up here.

The resort arrived with the paddle steamers in the 1820s. Tennyson came. Tennyson left. Charlotte Brontë came on honeymoon with her husband Arthur Nicholls — he was from Banagher, County Offaly, and knew the west of Ireland — though she died within the year and left no record of her impressions. Percy French arrived in 1896 to perform, four and a half hours late, because the West Clare Railway had decided not to hurry. He sued the company, won £10 at the Ennis Quarter Sessions, and wrote a song about it that made the railway more famous than the railway ever managed on its own.

Richard Harris is the other name that attaches itself to this town. He was from Limerick, not Kilkee, but he won the Tivoli Cup — a racquetball competition played against the sandstone walls of the West End — four consecutive years from 1948 to 1951. In 2006, Russell Crowe flew over to unveil a bronze statue of Harris at eighteen, mallet in hand. It stands near the seafront. People photograph it.

Come in June or July and the town fills. Come in September and the town returns to itself — a working town on a peninsula that has no through road, no shortcut, and no particular interest in pretending to be anywhere else.

Population
1,214
Walk score
Town in twelve minutes; cliff path in twenty
Founded
Resort established 1820s
Coords
52°40′44″N, 9°38′49″W
01 / 09

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 09

The pubs.

None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:

Central Bar

Town-centre, traditional
Pub

On the main street, the kind of pub that has been there long enough to be reliable. Locals, summer visitors, and a general truce between the two.

The Strand Bar

Seafront, seasonal
Pub

Close to the beach, which means it gets the summer crowd and bears it gracefully. A straightforward pint with a view of the bay if you get the right seat.

03 / 09

Where to eat.

PlaceTypeLocal note
The Pantry Cafe & deli Day-only. Soup, sandwiches, home baking. The kind of place that fills up with wet walkers at lunchtime and closes before you decide you want dinner.
Naughton's Bar & Restaurant Pub food & seafood €€ On the seafront. Fish from local boats, no pretension. The chowder is the honest Clare version — thick, cream-based, comes with brown bread.
04 / 09

Where to sleep.

PlaceTypeLocal note
Stella Maris Hotel Hotel The traditional hotel on the seafront. Victorian bones, updated fitout. Has the bay in the window if you get a front room. Book ahead for July and August.
Bay View Hotel Hotel Overlooks the bay, does what the name says. Solid base for the cliff walk and the peninsula.
Kilkee Holiday Homes Self-catering A stock of terrace houses within walking distance of the beach. The town works well as self-catering — there is a supermarket, a chipper, and enough to buy for the week.
05 / 09

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

Ninety-eight dead, fifty yards from shore

The Edmond

On 19 November 1850, a three-masted barque called the Edmond sailed from Limerick with 216 passengers and crew bound for North America. A winter storm drove her into Kilkee Bay in the dark. She struck rocks less than fifty metres from the beach. By the time the tide turned and the ship broke apart, 98 people were dead. A local property owner named Richard Russell used the fallen mast as a gangway and got roughly a hundred ashore. The survivors were put up in the town overnight. Fifty-four bodies were buried in Kilfiera graveyard. A commemorative plaque marks Edmond Point today.

Four and a half hours late, and he still played

Percy French and the train

In August 1896, the entertainer and songwriter Percy French was booked to perform in Kilkee. The West Clare Railway delivered him four and a half hours late. He sued the company at the Ennis Quarter Sessions and won £10 plus expenses. The railway appealed; the appeal failed. French, not a man to waste an experience, wrote 'Are Ye Right There Michael?' — a song mocking the railway's spectacular indifference to timetables. The song ran for the rest of the century. The railway closed in 1961. The song is still going.

Four Tivoli Cups and a bronze statue

Richard Harris and the mallet

Richard Harris was a Limerick man, but he spent enough summers in Kilkee to win the Tivoli Cup — a racquetball competition played against the high sandstone walls of the West End — four consecutive years from 1948 to 1951. The Tivoli Cup was first competed for in 1935. Harris's record stands. In 2006, Russell Crowe flew in to unveil a life-size bronze statue of Harris at eighteen, mallet raised, outside on the seafront. It is a stranger monument than it sounds.

The Duggerna Reef and the Pollock Holes

The reef nobody sees

The reason Kilkee has a beach at all is the Duggerna Reef — a shelf of rock running across the mouth of the bay that breaks the Atlantic swell before it arrives. Inside the reef, the water is calm enough for swimming in conditions that would be dangerous a mile up the coast. The Pollock Holes, natural rock pools along the reef, have been used as bathing places for two centuries. They also serve as shallow water for trainee divers before they go out to the sea arches and underwater caves that make Kilkee one of the better diving sites on the west coast.

06 / 09

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

Kilkee Cliff Walk From the West End of the beach, south along the cliffs past Diamond Rocks and Moore Bay. The path is unfenced — the Atlantic is directly below. The geology changes as you walk: limestone shelves, sea stacks, sudden drops. One of the better cliff walks on the Wild Atlantic Way, and it starts from the town car park.
8 km returndistance
2.5–3 hourstime
Loop Head Lighthouse Drive the peninsula to the end. The Loop Head Lighthouse (1854) sits at the tip — 23 metres of masonry tower, 84 metres above sea level, operated by the Commissioners of Irish Lights. Open for tours. The view from the headland is the Shannon estuary on one side and the Atlantic on the other. The road narrows pleasingly on the way.
56 km drive from Kilkeedistance
Half daytime
The Pollock Holes Not a walk so much as a destination. Rock pools along the Duggerna Reef, naturally enclosed, warm in summer. Diving boards up to 13 metres at New Found Out, if that is the kind of morning you are having.
1 km from towndistance
20 min walktime
07 / 09

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar–May

Empty and honest. The cliff walk in April with a westerly running is one of the better things you can do in Clare.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun–Aug

Busy. Very busy in July. The beach fills and the parking fills before it. Book accommodation well ahead. The Bay Swim in August attracts 200 competitors across the horseshoe.

◐ Mind yourself
Autumn
Sep–Oct

The town empties fast after the bank holiday. Strand Races on the beach in September. The sea stays swimmable into October if you are that way inclined.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov–Feb

Some of the town closes. The cliff walk in a storm is genuinely dramatic, but check the path is passable.

◐ Mind yourself
08 / 09

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Driving Loop Head in high summer without a plan

The peninsula road is single-track in places and the summer traffic stacks behind every stopped campervan. Go early or go in September.

×
The Richard Harris statue as a main event

It is a good statue and the story behind it is worth knowing, but it is a five-minute stop. The cliff walk that starts ten minutes away is a three-hour one. Prioritise accordingly.

×
Swimming anywhere except inside the Duggerna Reef

The bay is sheltered because the reef is there. Outside the reef the Atlantic does what it does. The Pollock Holes and the beach inside the horseshoe are the sensible options.

+

Getting there.

By car

Kilrush to Kilkee is 15 minutes on the N67. Ennis is 1 hour. Limerick is 1h 20m. The Loop Head peninsula has no through road — you drive in and drive back the same way. That is the point.

By bus

Bus Éireann route 337 runs Limerick to Kilkee via Ennis and Kilrush. Two or three services daily, more in summer. Journey from Limerick is about 2 hours.

By train

No train since 1961 when the West Clare Railway closed. Nearest station is Limerick, then bus.

By air

Shannon (SNN) is 1 hour by car. That is the airport for this corner of Clare.