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BLACKPOOL
CO. CORK · IE

Blackpool
An Linn Dubh, Co. Cork

The Cork City North Side
STOP 08 / 08
An Linn Dubh · Co. Cork

The valley where Cork did its dirty, profitable work - tanneries, the brewery, and a hurling club that owns half the county's medals.

Blackpool is the valley just north of Cork city centre, in the low ground where the Glen River runs down toward the Lee and the northern hills rise on either side. It first turns up in the record in 1734, when Cork Corporation built a Guard House here - this was the main road north, the thoroughfare to Mallow, Limerick and Dublin, and the city watched who came and went.

What it became was industrial. Weaving and wool-combing first, helped by army and navy contracts during the Napoleonic wars. Then tanning - Griffith counted twenty-one tanneries in the valley in 1852 - alongside bacon curing, distilling and brewing. Generations of Blackpool worked at Gouldings, Harringtons, Dennys, Sunbeam and, above all, Murphy's. This was where Cork made its money and breathed its smells.

Don't come for postcards. Blackpool is a working suburb, not a destination - the kind of place you walk through on the way up to Shandon, or stop in for a pint in a pub that has not been refitted. The two things worth your attention are the brewery still going on Leitrim Street and the hurling tradition of Glen Rovers and Na Piarsaigh, the two clubs that carry the north side. The Church of the Annunciation, designed by the sculptor Séamus Murphy and finished in 1945, is the landmark on the hill.

If you are here, you are close to everything. St Anne's Shandon with its salmon weathervane and the North Cathedral are a short walk south up the slope, the city centre is fifteen minutes on foot, and Blarney is twenty minutes out the N20. Blackpool is a base and a pass-through more than a stop, and there is no shame in that.

Population
A Cork city suburb (not separately enumerated)
Founded
On the record from 1734 (the Guard House); industry from the late 1700s
Coords
51.9080° N, 8.4730° W
01 / 08

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 08

The pubs.

None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:

The Constellation

Unspoiled front-room local
Traditional bar, Watercourse Road

In the old front room of a stagecoach house on Watercourse Road, opened in 1916 as a Murphy's tied house and in the Buckley family for three generations. It kept the name Murphy's gave it, which is rare in Cork. Original Harrington sketches of city landmarks on the walls, photographs, memorabilia, the lot. A genuinely old room with the community's marks all over it. Open evenings and afternoons rather than all hours - check before you set out.

The Rebel Bar

Traditional shopfront
Pub, Watercourse Road

Also on Watercourse Road, notable for one of the few surviving traditional shopfronts left in Blackpool - the buildings-of-Ireland survey singles it out. A plain north-side local. Worth a look for the frontage alone if you are walking the road.

03 / 08

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

Lady's Well Brewery, 1856

Murphy's and the Lady's Well

James J. Murphy bought the buildings of the old Cork Foundling Hospital in 1854 and built his brewery on the site, opening the Lady's Well Brewery in 1856. The name comes from a holy well on the hillside opposite, long said to have miraculous properties. The brewery rose fast - 64,000 hectolitres by 1861, a peak of 229,000 by 1900, second only to Guinness in the whole country by 1906. In 1978 Murphy's took the franchise to brew Heineken lager; Heineken bought the place outright in 1983. It still brews Murphy's Irish Stout and Heineken on the original Leitrim Street site, which makes it one of the oldest working industrial sites in Cork. On a still morning the malt smell still drifts down the valley the way the old people remember it.

Glen Rovers, since 1916

The Glen and the Rockies

Cork hurling has a Big Three - Glen Rovers, Blackrock and St Finbarr's - and the Glen are Blackpool's. The club broke away from the Brian Dillons club at Dillon's Cross in 1916 over a row about undelivered medals, set up on the other side of the Glen, and went on to win 27 Cork county championships and two All-Ireland club titles. Their golden run, the 1930s to the '50s, is bound up with two names: Christy Ring, who joined from Cloyne in 1941 and took 13 Cork senior medals before bowing out at 46 in 1967, and Jack Lynch, who hurled for the Glen and later became Taoiseach. A second north-side club, Na Piarsaigh, was founded in 1943 by North Monastery students. Between them they are the hurling heartbeat of the north side.

Church of the Annunciation, 1945

Séamus Murphy's church

The landmark on the Blackpool hill is the Church of the Annunciation, finished in 1945 to replace the older St Nicholas church. It was designed by Séamus Murphy, better known as one of Ireland's great stone sculptors, and was paid for largely by the Dwyer family - the owners of the Sunbeam textile works - and by collections from the workers themselves. A church built by a sculptor and funded by the factory floor is about as Blackpool a story as you will find.

04 / 08

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

Up to Shandon South out of Blackpool and up the slope to St Anne's Shandon with its famous salmon weathervane and the bells you can ring yourself, and the North Cathedral (St Mary's) two minutes beyond. This is the walk that turns a pass-through into a half-day. Steep in places, all of it old Cork.
2 km returndistance
40 minutestime
The Watercourse Road heritage stretch Along Watercourse Road and the old industrial spine of the valley, past the surviving traditional shopfronts and the line of the Back Watercourse that once powered the mills and distilleries. A Cork Heritage trail covers the area. Not scenic - this is reading the town off its own walls.
1.5 kmdistance
30 minutestime
05 / 08

Tours, if you want one.

The ones below are bookable through our partners - pick one that suits, or skip the lot and just turn up.

We earn a small commission when you book through our tour pages. It costs you nothing extra and keeps the village hubs free. All Co. Cork tours →

06 / 08

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar-May

Mild and quiet. The hurling league is in full swing - a Sunday match at the Glen field is the local Blackpool you came for.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun-Aug

Long evenings, the championship building. Easy to combine with Shandon, the city centre and a run out to Blarney.

◉ Go
Autumn
Sep-Oct

All-Ireland and county final season - the time the north side cares most. Cooler, clearer light up at Shandon.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov-Feb

Short, wet days in a valley that does not flatter in the rain. The pubs and the brewery smell keep going, but there is little to draw you specifically.

◐ Mind yourself
07 / 08

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
The retail park as your tour of Blackpool

The Blackpool Shopping Centre car park is not Blackpool. It is a retail park like any other in Ireland - Dunnes, Aldi, Woodies, a cinema. Park there if you must, but walk into the old valley around Watercourse Road and up to Shandon to see anything real.

×
Expecting a tourist village

This is a working Cork city suburb, not a heritage town. There is no harbour, no medieval core, no row of craft shops. The pleasures here are a brewery, a hurling tradition and an honest pub. Scale your expectations to that and it pays off.

×
Trying to tour the brewery on a whim

Heineken's Murphy's brewery is a working industrial plant, not an open visitor attraction. You can admire it from the road and buy the stout in any pub - do not turn up at the gate expecting a tour.

+

Getting there.

By car

Blackpool is on the N20 immediately north of Cork city centre, where the N20 meets the North Ring Road. About five minutes from St Patrick's Street, and the M8 from Dublin feeds straight onto it.

By bus

Well served by Cork city buses. Route 215 runs Mahon - city centre - Shandon - Blackpool - Blarney - Cloghroe, with a stop at Blackpool Church, so a single bus links Blackpool, the Shandon churches and Blarney.

By train

Kent Station in the city centre is the nearest rail, about 2km south, on the Dublin and Cobh/Midleton lines. Irish Rail has flagged plans for a future Blackpool commuter station.

By air

Cork Airport (ORK) is about 20 minutes south through the city. Dublin Airport is roughly 3 hours by road via the M8.