A sixth-century saint, still in the water
St Lachteen and his wells
The parish church is dedicated to St Lachteen, reckoned to have lived from around 526 to 622 and counted patron across a swathe of mid-Cork - Kilnamartyra, Donoughmore and Grenagh among them. Two holy wells dedicated to him survive in the parish: Toberlaghteen, and Tobar Lachtáin at Cloheena. The greatest relic associated with the saint, the Lámh Lachtáin - a twelfth-century shrine in the shape of an arm, yew wood sheathed in bronze and silver, made to hold his arm-bone - is now in the National Museum of Ireland in Dublin. For a parish this quiet, that is a long and serious thread of devotion to be standing on.
A working farm and a rebuilt village
The Farm Grenagh
Out at Ballymorisheen, The Farm Grenagh is the rare thing in a village this size: a reason to drive here. It runs as a working farm across about forty acres, with farmyard animals, tractor and barrel rides, an adventure playground and a fairy garden for children. The heart of it is a reconstructed mid-century Irish village - a period farmhouse shown before and after rural electrification, a working blacksmith's forge, a hardware shop and a milking parlour - that does a genuine job of explaining how this countryside lived in the 1950s to 1970s. The Haystack Restaurant does breakfast and lunch. Weekends only from September to April, daily in summer. Booking ahead for the Easter, Halloween and Christmas events.
A Norman family barony
Barretts country and the old castle
Grenagh lies in the barony of Barretts, called for the Anglo-Norman family who held this ground for centuries. Lewis's topographical survey of the 1830s records Castlemore, a ruined castle and tower on a ridge across the Clydagh, built by the Barretts and long the chief seat of the head of the family, and the picturesque ruins of the old church of Kilquane in a valley to the south of the parish. The same account notes a woollen factory, built in 1806 and worked by a mountain stream - the kind of small water-powered industry that dotted North Cork before the creameries took over the rural economy.