County Derry Ireland · Co. Derry · Bovevagh Save · Share
POSTED FROM
BOVEVAGH
CO. DERRY · IE

Bovevagh
Both Mhéabha

The Sperrins / Roe Valley
STOP 03 / 03
Both Mhéabha · Co. Derry

A townland, a ruined church, and a stone house built to hold a saint's bones.

Bovevagh is not really a village. It is a townland, a parish, a scatter of farms between the Roe and the Bovevagh River, three miles north of Dungiven. The post office is in Burnfoot. The school and the shop are in Dungiven. The reason to come here is half a mile up a quiet lane: a roofless medieval church, and beside it, a small stone building that is one of the rarest things in Irish ecclesiastical architecture.

The mortuary house — or saint's house, or house tomb, depending on who is writing about it — is the size of a garden shed and looks at first like nothing much. Get closer. The roof is a single pitched stone slab. Inside there is a body-shaped recess, and at one end a small square hole worn smooth where, for centuries, pilgrims reached in to touch the bones inside. There are only a handful of these structures left in Ireland. Banagher, twelve miles north-west, has the other famous one. After that you are scraping the barrel.

Bring the wellies. The path through the graveyard is grass and the gate latches are awkward and the local cattle have opinions about the field next door. There is no visitor centre, no plaque you can read from the car, no coffee at the end. That is part of the point. You came to stand beside a thousand-year-old stone box that someone built to hold a saint, and that is what you get.

Population
A small parish a few hundred strong, scattered between Burnfoot and the Roe
Walk score
No village to speak of. The old church and its mortuary house are the visit.
Founded
Monastic site traditionally dated 557; medieval parish church on the same ground
Coords
54.9764° N, 6.9489° W
01 / 03

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 03

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

A small rare thing

The mortuary house

The little stone building beside the church is what archaeologists call a house tomb or saint's tomb — a permanent shrine built to hold the relics of a venerated dead person. It is of rubble construction with a single pitched slab roof. The body-shaped cavity inside is matched by a hand-hole at the east end through which medieval pilgrims could reach in and touch the bones. The companion piece is at Banagher Old Church to the north-west, where St Muirdagh's tomb stands taller and steeper. Bovevagh's is plainer, decayed, and easier to miss. There are only a few of these surviving in Ireland. Stand beside it for two minutes and the whole vocabulary of Irish church architecture gets a footnote you didn't know existed.

St Ringan, or Aidan, or nobody now remembers

Whose saint?

Local tradition holds that the mortuary house is the tomb shrine of St Ringan. The older monastery on the site is associated with St Aidan — said to be a nephew of St Patrick — who was named first abbot when the foundation was put down. Columb Cille gets credited too, as he does with half the early sites in the north. The dates and the names slide around. What is certain is that someone here was important enough that a stone house was built over their bones and people came, for centuries, to put a hand inside.

A timber church, then a stone one, then a ruin

The old church

A timber church — a dertech in the old word — stood on this ground in 1100 and was recorded burning that year. The medieval parish church that replaced it was already reported as ruined in 1622 but was patched and used into the 19th century before being abandoned for good. The walls you see now are the medieval church with later mends. The east window survives, and a fair stretch of the south wall, and a graveyard that is still in use. The newer Bovevagh parish churches — Church of Ireland and Presbyterian — sit elsewhere in the parish and carry the worship on.

An older name underneath

Both Mhéabha

Both Mhéabha — anglicised as Bovevagh — means Maeve's hut or Maeve's booley. A booley is a summer shieling, the temporary dwelling that herders used when cattle were brought up to higher pasture. Maeve is the queen-goddess of the older Irish mythological cycles. Whether the name points to a real woman, a goddess, or just an old place-name lost in the long grass, the church was built on ground that already had a name and a history. That is the usual story for Irish monastic sites. Christian on top of older.

+

Getting there.

By car

Three miles north-north-west of Dungiven on the B192 (the Limavady road). Look for the brown signpost for Bovevagh Old Church. The site is up a side lane — park considerately at the graveyard.

By bus

Translink Ulsterbus runs the Limavady–Dungiven route along the B192. Stops are infrequent and there is no village to walk into when you get off. A car is the honest answer.