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LIXNAW
CO. KERRY · IE

Lixnaw
Leic Snámha

STOP 07 / 07
Leic Snámha · Co. Kerry

Earls of Kerry country, with a hurling team that takes football county personally.

Lixnaw is a quiet North Kerry village on the river Brick, sixteen kilometres up the road from Tralee and ten short of Listowel. Today it's a couple of hundred houses, a chapel, a pitch, a few pubs and the country roads running out into flat dairy land. Six hundred years ago it was the capital, in the small-k sense, of one of the great Hiberno-Norman dynasties of Munster.

The FitzMaurices were Lords of Kerry from 1320 until the title died out in the early 19th century — twenty-one barons, then four earls. They held court at Lixnaw, built a castle and bridge, kept a chapel, laid out gardens. Then in the 18th century they followed the money and the politics to Dublin and London, and Lixnaw was left to the weather. Today the Old Court ruins sit on the edge of the village and the only people who make the pilgrimage are local historians and the occasional descendant. One of those descendants, William Petty, became prime minister of Britain in 1782. He never lived here.

What the village has in its own right now is the hurling. Lixnaw GAA is the rare Kerry club where the game is hurling, not football, and they are very good at it — nine county senior titles, the most recent in 2018, players sent on to the Kerry county hurling team year after year. In a county that lives and breathes Gaelic football, Lixnaw is the village where the small ball still rules. Come on a championship Sunday and you'll hear it in the pub.

Population
758
Founded
Castle of Lixnaw built by the third baron in 1320
Coords
52.4019° N, 9.6161° W
01 / 07

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 07

The pubs.

None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:

The Monument

Locals, GAA on the telly
Family-run village pub

A long-established family pub in the centre of the village, beside the chapel. The kind of place where the conversation pauses when a stranger comes in, then resumes. If there's a Lixnaw match on, it's on here.

03 / 07

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

Five centuries at Lixnaw

The FitzMaurice Earls

The FitzMaurices arrived with the Normans and stuck. By 1320 the third baron had built the castle and bridge at Lixnaw. The line ran for twenty-one barons before Thomas, the 21st Lord, was made Earl of Kerry in 1723. Four earls later, the title was extinct and the seat was a ruin. Their most famous descendant — through the female line — was William Petty FitzMaurice, 2nd Earl of Shelburne, who became prime minister of Britain in 1782 and negotiated the peace that recognised American independence. Lixnaw produced him; Lixnaw never saw him.

How a great house was abandoned

The Old Court

The FitzMaurices' main residence at Lixnaw — the Old Court, sometimes called Lixnaw House — was a substantial 17th- and 18th-century seat with formal gardens, a deer park and an ornamental lake. The 3rd Earl inherited young, lived in Dublin and on the continent, and the place was let go. By the 1780s it was derelict. After his death in 1818 the title went extinct and there was no one left to care. Today only a few outer walls survive in the fields on the edge of the village. It's one of the more haunting noble-seat ruins in Munster precisely because so little remains — you have to stand in it and imagine the rest.

Lixnaw GAA

A hurling village in a football county

The club was founded in 1888 — among the first wave after the GAA itself in 1884 — as the 'Erin's Hope' branch of the local parish. Hurling took root and never let go. Nine Kerry Senior Hurling Championships sit on the board: 1933, 1954, 1983, 1985, 1999, 2005, 2007, 2014 and 2018. Notable players include Maurice Fitzmaurice (1891 All-Ireland final), the modern hurler Shane Conway, and the dual footballer Paul Galvin, who played football for Finuge and Kerry. The grounds at Páirc na Díthreibhe — Hermitage Park — opened in 1982 on the banks of the Brick.

Lixnaw station, 1880–1963

The line to Limerick

Lixnaw station opened on 20 December 1880 on the new Limerick and Kerry Railway, the line that ran from Tralee through Abbeydorney, Lixnaw, Listowel, Abbeyfeale and Newcastle West to Limerick. For the best part of a century it was how you got to and from the village. Passengers stopped on 4 February 1963; freight kept going up to Listowel until 1977; the last goods train ran in 1983. The track is gone. The North Kerry Greenway project would put a walking and cycling route on the old line — slowly, parish by parish.

04 / 07

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

Old Court ruins Walk out of the village toward the river and the ruins of the FitzMaurice seat are in the fields. Not signposted, not visitor-centred, partly on private land — ask locally. What's left is wall fragments and earthworks, but the scale of what was here is still readable on the ground.
Short walk from villagedistance
20 mintime
The river Brick The Brick rises in the Stack's Mountains and runs through Lixnaw on its way to the Cashen estuary. Bits of the bank are walkable from the bridge. Otters, herons, the occasional kingfisher in summer.
Riverbank stretchesdistance
30–60 mintime
Cashen estuary (drive) The Brick joins the Feale at Cashen, where the combined river meets the Atlantic in a wide tidal estuary. Birdlife in autumn is the reward; the road out through Ballyduff gets you there.
15 km westdistance
Half daytime
05 / 07

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar–May

Quiet, lambs in the fields, the Brick in good water. Hurling league matches on Sunday afternoons.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun–Aug

Long evenings in dairy country. Listowel Races up the road in September; Writers Week in late May–early June.

◉ Go
Autumn
Sep–Oct

County hurling championship knockout stages. If Lixnaw are in it, the village is in it.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov–Feb

Wet, dark, not much going on. The pub is open. That's about the size of it.

◐ Mind yourself
06 / 07

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Looking for a "visitor centre" at the Old Court

There isn't one. The ruins are in fields on the edge of the village. Ask in the pub or the shop before you go tramping across someone's land.

×
Coming for nightlife

It's a quiet North Kerry village. For pubs and music, Listowel is fifteen minutes north and Tralee twenty minutes south.

×
A railway-heritage day trip

The line is gone, the station building is private, and the proposed greenway is years off. Come for the ruins and the river, not the rails.

+

Getting there.

By car

Tralee to Lixnaw is 20 minutes on the R556. Listowel is 15 minutes north on the R553. Limerick is 1h 30m via the N21 and Listowel.

By bus

Bus Éireann 274 between Tralee and Listowel stops in the village. Local Link Kerry runs additional rural services.

By train

Nearest station is Tralee; the line through Lixnaw closed to passengers in 1963.