County Kilkenny Ireland · Co. Kilkenny · Galmoy Save · Share
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GALMOY
CO. KILKENNY · IE

Galmoy
Gabhalmhaigh, Co. Kilkenny

The Ireland's Ancient East
STOP 06 / 06
Gabhalmhaigh · Co. Kilkenny

A small parish village on the Kilkenny side of the Laois border. A round tower, a closed zinc mine, and a hurling club that punches above its size.

Galmoy is a small parish village in the far northwest corner of County Kilkenny, sitting so close to the Laois line that half the people who pass through assume it is in Laois. It is not. The village, the civil parish, and the old Barony of Galmoy that takes its name from here are all Kilkenny. It lies between Cullohill on the Laois side and Johnstown on the Kilkenny side, with Urlingford and Rathdowney both about nine kilometres off.

It is farming country, quiet and rural, drained by the River Goul on its way to join the Nore. There is a church, a national school, the GAA grounds, and not much in the way of services - for a pub, a shop or a meal you go to Johnstown, Urlingford or Cullohill, all of them a short drive. This is a place you visit for one or two specific things rather than a day out.

Those things are worth the detour. South of the village, on the road toward Johnstown, the round tower at Grangefertagh stands over the bones of a monastery St Ciaran is said to have founded in the 6th century - one of the tallest round towers in Ireland, free to walk up to. And the name Galmoy travelled further than the village ever did: from 1997 to 2012 a deep zinc and lead mine carried it, part of the run of orebodies that turned Ireland into a serious zinc producer. The mine is closed and fenced now. The tower is the reason to come.

Population
283 (2002 census)
Founded
Medieval parish; gives its name to the Barony of Galmoy
Coords
52.7833° N, 7.5833° W
01 / 06

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 06

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

6th century to 1156, and still standing

Grangefertagh: St Ciaran's tower

About three kilometres south of Galmoy, near a crossing of the River Goul on the Johnstown road, St Ciaran of Saigir is said to have founded a monastery in the 6th century. The Irish name was Fearta-Caerach, 'the sheep's grave'. The round tower that survives is around 31.5 metres tall with eight floors of limestone, one of the tallest in the country - a tower that height advertised a wealthy monastery. In 1156 the high king Muirchertach Mac Lochlainn burned the tower with the lector still inside it. The de Blanchville family reopened the site in the early 13th century for the Augustinian canons; the priory was dissolved in 1541, the church stayed in use until 1780, and part of it later became a handball alley. It is a free, unguarded OPW national monument. Stand at the base and look up.

Zinc and lead, 1997 to 2012

The mine that carried the name

Galmoy is better known to geologists than to tourists. The Galmoy Mine, an underground zinc and lead operation in the Rathdowney Trend a short way north near Johnstown, opened in 1997 under Arcon International Resources and passed to Lundin Mining in 2005. The discovery of the Galmoy orebodies, with their sphalerite and silver-bearing galena, helped revive the Irish base-metal industry and made Ireland a notable zinc province. Falling metal prices and depleting ore brought it down: production wound down from 2009 and the mine closed by 2012. It is abandoned and fenced. There is no visitor centre, no tour, nothing to see from the road - but the name on the maps and the share prices once came from this quiet corner of Kilkenny.

Galmoy GAA, founded 1929

A hurling parish

Galmoy is hurling country, as most of Kilkenny is. The GAA club was founded in December 1929 and has taken three Kilkenny Junior Hurling Championships, the most recent in 2004, along with a stack of divisional titles. For a parish this small, holding its own in the most successful hurling county in Ireland is no small thing. There is also a long-running handball tradition here with county, Leinster and All-Ireland titles to its name - fitting, given the old priory church down at Grangefertagh ended its days as a ball alley.

03 / 06

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

Grangefertagh round tower The main reason to stop. Roughly 3 km south of Galmoy toward Johnstown, signposted off the road near the River Goul. A free OPW national monument: the 31.5 m round tower, the ruined priory church and an effigy tomb. Field gates and farmland around it, so wear boots and respect the ground. Quiet - you will often have it to yourself.
Short walk from the roaddistance
30-45 minutestime
Galmoy to Cullohill country roads Flat, hedge-lined back roads across the Laois border toward Cullohill and its ruined castle. Pure rural Ireland: farmland, the Goul valley, little traffic. No waymarked trail - just lanes - so a map and good road sense are needed. Better on a dry day.
Variesdistance
1 hour+time
04 / 06

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar-May

The fields green up and the back roads are at their best. Good light on the round tower.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun-Aug

Long evenings for the Grangefertagh visit and the country lanes. Dry ground underfoot.

◉ Go
Autumn
Sep-Oct

The quietest, prettiest time in this kind of farming country. Hurling championship in the air.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov-Feb

Cold, wet and very quiet. The monument fields turn to mud and there is little open in the village itself.

◐ Mind yourself
05 / 06

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Expecting a village centre with services

Galmoy is tiny - a church, a school, GAA grounds and farms. For a pub, a shop or a meal, drive to Johnstown, Urlingford or Cullohill, all close by.

×
The mine as an attraction

Galmoy Mine closed in 2012 and is abandoned and fenced. There is no visitor centre and nothing to see. The name is the only thing that remains in public.

×
A visit without a car

Public transport is a single Local Link service. Realistically you need a car to reach Galmoy and the round tower at Grangefertagh.

×
Trusting the county on the sign

People keep filing Galmoy under Laois because of where it sits on the border. It is County Kilkenny - parish, barony and all.

+

Getting there.

By car

Off the M8/N8 Dublin to Cork corridor: leave at the Johnstown or Urlingford junction and follow local roads about 9 km to Galmoy. Roughly 30 km from Kilkenny city, 40 km from Portlaoise, and a short hop across the border from Cullohill in Laois.

By bus

TFI Local Link route 533 (northwest Kilkenny to Kilkenny city) serves the Galmoy and Crosspatrick area, but with only about one return service a day. Urlingford, 9 km off on the old N8, has more frequent commercial coaches (J.J. Kavanagh) toward Kilkenny and Dublin.

By train

No station. The nearest mainline stops are Thurles (about 28 km) and Portlaoise (about 40 km), both on the Dublin to Cork line.