County Laois Ireland · Co. Laois · Portarlington Save · Share
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PORTARLINGTON
CO. LAOIS · IE

Portarlington
Port Arlingtin

The Ireland's Ancient East
STOP 09 / 09
Port Arlingtin · Co. Laois

A Dublin commuter town with French Huguenot roots (settled 1692). L'Église de France cemetery still there, bilingual past still visible.

Portarlington is a Dublin commuter town now, but it was founded by French Huguenots in 1692 — religious refugees who became traders and built a community. The settlement was granted by the English crown to French families. The past is visible in the street names (Rue de l'Oratory, Rue Saint-Denis) and in the cemetery where graves are in French.

The town was transformed by the train line — Dublin to Cork passes through, and Portarlington became a station town, then a commuter town. The past and the present sit uncomfortably together. You can see both if you look.

Population
~8,000
Walk score
Main street walkable, station is the centre
Founded
1667, French Huguenot settlement
Coords
53.3353° N, 7.0681° W
01 / 09

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 09

The pubs.

None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:

The Station Bar

Commuter rush, evening
Station bar & food

Next to the station. Coffee for the 7am Dublin train, pints for the evening commute. That is its schedule.

The Grand Hotel Bar

Dinner, weekend
Hotel bar & food

Main street. More formal than the Station. Food and wine.

Maguire's Pub

Quiet, locals
Village pub

Off the main drag. No rush, no trains, just drinking.

03 / 09

Where to eat.

PlaceTypeLocal note
The Station Bar Pub food €€ Fast food for commuters, coffee and sandwiches.
The Grand Hotel Hotel restaurant €€€ The dinner destination. Book ahead for weekends.
Local chipper Takeaway Evening trade for commuters.
04 / 09

Where to sleep.

PlaceTypeLocal note
The Grand Hotel Hotel Thirty rooms. The reason to stay overnight in Portarlington. Book ahead.
Local B&Bs B&B Ask at Maguire's pub for recommendations.
05 / 09

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

1692, religious refugees

The Huguenot settlement

Portarlington was settled by French Huguenots — Protestant refugees fleeing religious persecution in Catholic France. The English crown granted them the land and permitted them to settle. They built a church (no longer standing), a market, a community. The graves in the cemetery are in French. The names on the main street are French. The past is written into the street.

Bilingual graves

L'Église de France cemetery

The cemetery still stands with graves in both French and English. It is a small memorial to the Huguenot community. Some graves date from the 18th century. The inscriptions are in French — you can read the names of the founders.

19th century onward

The train transformed it

The Dublin–Cork railway line opened in the 19th century with a station in Portarlington. The station became the centre of the town. The line made Portarlington a commuter town for Dublin. Now the 6:42 departure in the morning and the evening return are the town's real rhythm.

06 / 09

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

The townwalk Main street, the cemetery, around the station. The town in a morning walk.
1.5 kmdistance
30 mintime
The riverside walk Along the Figile River, the waterside path north of the town.
2 kmdistance
45 mintime
07 / 09

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar–May

The river is full, the gardens are starting. The morning commute is the backdrop.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun–Aug

Weekends are quieter, the weekday commuter rush is gone.

◉ Go
Autumn
Sep–Oct

The light is gold, the rush is back, the riverside is beautiful.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov–Feb

The commute is dark morning and evening, the town feels transient.

◐ Mind yourself
08 / 09

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Weekday visits in rush hours

The station area is chaos in the morning and evening. Come on a weekend or come at mid-day.

×
Expecting a holiday destination

Portarlington is a working town. It is honest about that. The Huguenot past is a footnote.

×
The main street shopping

The Dublin commuters keep the shops running but it is not a retail destination. Go to Dublin or Portlaoise.

+

Getting there.

By car

North of Portlaoise on the N4 toward Dublin. About 30 km from Portlaoise, 90 km from Dublin.

By bus

Bus Éireann services on the route. Check timetables.

By train

Dublin Heuston to Cork line, 1 hour to Dublin, 1h 45min to Cork. Multiple daily services.