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PALLASGREEN
CO. LIMERICK · IE

Pallasgreen
Pailís Ghréine, Co. Limerick

The Ireland's Ancient East
STOP 07 / 07
Pailís Ghréine · Co. Limerick

A working village on the Limerick-Waterford road, named for a love goddess and ringed by old volcanoes.

Pallasgreen - Pailis Ghreine, the stockade of Grian - sits in east County Limerick on the N24, the old Limerick to Waterford road, about twenty kilometres southeast of the city. It is a roadside farming village in the proper sense: it grew along a through-route, and the trade of passing traffic plus the dairy and tillage country around it have kept it in services that a village of two hundred and twenty-nine people would not otherwise hold. There is no lake, no abbey, no visitor centre. There is a working main street and a name with a goddess in it.

The name is the most interesting thing about it. Grian was an old Irish goddess of love, and tradition put her home on the Hill of Nicker, a couple of kilometres north - the highest of a small group of carboniferous volcanoes, long extinct, that give this corner of Limerick a faintly odd, humped topography you do not get elsewhere. The village proper was on the map by 1831 as a constabulary post with sixty-two thatched houses and a sub-post office to Limerick and Clonmel. The railway came through in 1848 and a station stood here until it closed; the trains still run on the line but they do not stop.

What the village has now is the ordinary furniture of a Munster farming community: four pubs, a butcher, a service station, a post office, a couple of mechanics, two hairdressers, a chipper and a Chinese takeaway. The GAA club, founded in 1887, plays in blue and gold like Tipperary six miles up the road, and pulls its players from Pallasgreen, Old Pallas, Nicker and Barna. If you stop here it is for a pint, a feed, a tank of diesel, or because you wanted to stand under a hill where a love goddess was supposed to live. All three are legitimate reasons. The village does not pretend to be more than it is.

Population
229 (2022 census)
Founded
A constabulary and post village by 1831 (62 houses); station on the Waterford and Limerick Railway from 1848
Coords
52.5508° N, 8.3386° W
01 / 07

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 07

The pubs.

None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:

The village pubs

Working local bars
Four pubs on and around the main street

Pallasgreen carries four pubs for two hundred-odd people, which tells you it is a through-village on a busy road as much as a residential one. They are the ordinary, honest kind of Munster roadside and village bar - regulars, the racing, a pint and a chat - rather than gastropubs or destinations. We are not naming and ranking them here without standing in each one; take your pick, they all pour a pint.

03 / 07

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

A goddess, a volcano, and a church cut into the slope

Grian and the Hill of Nicker

The village takes its name from Grian, an old Irish goddess of love, who tradition placed on the Hill of Nicker two kilometres north. Nicker is the highest of a cluster of low carboniferous volcanic hills - long dead, but one of the more significant volcanic districts in Ireland - that roll on east into Kilteely-Dromkeen. Built into the hillside is the Church of Saint John the Baptist, a neo-Gothic cruciform church of around 1820, early for a Catholic church built before Emancipation, with a four-stage bell tower and an oculus window of the Four Evangelists. An outdoor Way of the Cross climbs the slope above it, laid out as a scale replica of the Stations in Jerusalem. The church sits in the Archdiocese of Cashel and Emly, not Limerick - the parish transferred from the old diocese of Emly in 1718, a reminder that the county line and the church line do not always agree.

A MacBrien tower house of c.1550, by the road, still standing

Kilduff Castle

Right beside the N24, with a pub car park alongside it, stands the ruin of Kilduff Castle - a tower house built by the MacBriens around 1550. In 1617 it passed to the Hurley family, who were dispossessed and transplanted to Connaught in the Cromwellian settlement and held it only until 1667, after which it eventually went to the Erasmus Smith charity schools. Two of its walls have collapsed and no floors remain, but a fireplace or two survive and there is a fine circular bartizan still clinging to a corner. It is fenced now for safety and there are serious cracks in the masonry. The kind of castle most people pass at sixty and never clock - which is its own quiet argument for slowing down.

Where the Williamite guns were destroyed, 1690

Sarsfield's Rock

About three miles south, near the church of Templebraden, a large rocky outcrop known as Sarsfield's Rock looks down on the ground where Patrick Sarsfield famously destroyed the Williamite siege train during the Jacobite-Williamite War in 1690 - the ammunition and guns being hauled up to batter Limerick, intercepted and blown up by Sarsfield's ride. It is one of the genuinely storied episodes of the Williamite wars, and the spur of country south of Pallasgreen is where it played out.

Old Pallas to Olympic gold, Antwerp 1920

Patrick Ryan, the Irish Whale

Patrick Ryan was born at Old Pallas, two kilometres south of the village, in 1883. He won his first Irish hammer title in 1902, beating the great Tom Kiely, emigrated to the United States in 1910, and in 1913 set a world record in the hammer throw that stood for twenty-five years. One of the famous Irish Whales - the Irish-American weight throwers who dominated the field events of the era - he won Olympic gold in the hammer and silver in the 56-pound weight at Antwerp in 1920, competing for the United States. An Olympic champion from a Limerick farm village of a couple of hundred people.

04 / 07

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

The Hill of Nicker Two kilometres north of the village, the highest of the local volcanic hills and the mythological home of the goddess Grian. The Church of Saint John the Baptist is cut into the slope, with an outdoor Way of the Cross climbing above it for the views back over east Limerick. This is the one walk in the area with a story attached. Boots and a clear day; in low cloud you will see nothing of the volcanic country it sits in.
Short climb, variesdistance
1 hourtime
Kilduff Castle from the road Not a walk so much as a stop. The tower house is right on the N24 with pub parking beside it. Look but do not climb - it is fenced and the masonry is cracked. Five minutes of standing under a 16th-century MacBrien ruin before you get back in the car.
A few minutesdistance
15 minutestime
05 / 07

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar-May

The volcanic hills green up and the back lanes around Nicker are at their quiet best. Mild, empty, nobody about. The right season for the unhurried version of east Limerick.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun-Aug

Long evenings for the climb up Nicker and the views, GAA in full swing at the club, the road busy with through-traffic to and from Waterford. The most active time, such as it is.

◉ Go
Autumn
Sep-Oct

Hurling and football finishing at the GAA grounds, the hills turning. Settled and quiet, good light on the volcanic country.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov-Feb

Short days, low cloud on the hills, little reason to be here unless you have roots or a pint in mind. The pubs and the service station keep going regardless.

◐ Mind yourself
06 / 07

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Expecting an attraction

Pallasgreen is a working roadside village, not a heritage destination. There is no visitor centre, no admission, no day out. The draw is a name with a goddess in it, a half-fallen castle by the road, the Hill of Nicker, and a few honest pubs. Come for a pint and a sense of east Limerick, not for a list of sights.

×
Going inside Kilduff Castle

Two walls are down, there are serious cracks in the masonry, and it is fenced for good reason. Admire the bartizan from the road. Do not climb in.

×
Confusing Pallasgreen and Old Pallas

They are two separate settlements about two kilometres apart - Old Pallas is the smaller one to the south, birthplace of the Olympic hammer thrower Patrick Ryan. Same parish, same GAA club, different villages. Locals know the difference and the sat-nav often does not.

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Getting there.

By car

On the N24, the main Limerick to Waterford road. About 20 km southeast of Limerick city, roughly 25 minutes; Tipperary town is around 20 minutes east. The village is strung along the road, with Kilduff Castle visible beside it.

By bus

Bus Eireann route 55 (Limerick to Waterford via Tipperary and Clonmel) runs along the N24 through the area, and the local operator Kelly Travel also serves the village. Check current timetables - services are aimed at the through-route, not the village itself.

By train

No station. Pallasgreen had a stop on the Waterford and Limerick Railway from 1848 but it is long closed; trains still pass on the line without stopping. The nearest live stations are Limerick Junction (about 15 km southeast) and Limerick Colbert (about 20 km west).

By air

Shannon Airport (SNN) is roughly 45 km west, around an hour by car.