County Mayo Ireland · Co. Mayo · Bohola Save · Share
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BOHOLA
CO. MAYO · IE

Bohola
Both Chomhla

STOP 05 / 05
Both Chomhla · Co. Mayo

Brendan Shine wrote a song about the three pubs. There are two left.

Bohola sits at a crossroads in central Mayo, where the N5 between Castlebar and Swinford meets the Kiltimagh-to-Ballina road. It is a small place — a couple of hundred people, two pubs, a post office, a café, a church. The Irish name is Both Chomhla, meaning either the hut of a man called Chomhla or possibly a derivation of Both-Thola, the hut of St Tola, who founded a hermitage here on the River Gustien somewhere in the early medieval period. The village hasn't grown much since. The river is still there.

What the village does have is an extraordinary diaspora story. Martin Sheridan was born here on 28 March 1881, the son of a farming family. He emigrated to America at sixteen, joined the New York Police Department, and then — almost as a side project — became the greatest track-and-field athlete Ireland ever produced. Five gold medals, three silver, one bronze across three Olympic Games: St Louis in 1904, Athens in 1906, London in 1908. Discus, shot put, standing high jump, Greek discus. He died of Spanish flu on 27 March 1918, one day short of his thirty-seventh birthday. A memorial stands on the village green. It is not overblown. Neither was he.

The O'Dwyer family also came from this parish. William O'Dwyer was Mayor of New York from 1946 to 1950, then President Truman's Ambassador to Mexico. His brother Paul O'Dwyer was a civil liberties lawyer and President of the New York City Council. Their family donated land here for the Lismirrane Cheshire Home. Two brothers from a small Mayo village, between them shaping mid-century New York. Bohola has a habit of producing people who leave and then cast a long shadow back.

Population
~200
Pubs
2and counting
Founded
Early Christian settlement, St Tola
Coords
53°54'09"N, 9°03'21"W
01 / 05

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 05

The pubs.

None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:

MacDonald's

Local, quiet
Village pub

One of the two remaining pubs in the village. Named in Brendan Shine's song when there were three. It's still here.

The Village Inn

Local, straightforward
Village pub

Formerly Roche's — the third pub in the song. Clarke's became the local shop. This one stayed a pub.

03 / 05

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

Nine medals, one Mayo townland

Martin Sheridan

Martin Sheridan was born in Bohola on 28 March 1881. He emigrated to New York in his teens, became an NYPD detective, and between 1904 and 1908 won five Olympic gold medals, three silver and one bronze across three Games — St Louis, Athens and London. His specialties were the discus throw and the standing jumps. At 6'3" and 194 pounds he was a physically imposing man, but the records suggest the precision was what separated him. He died of Spanish flu on 27 March 1918, a single day before his thirty-seventh birthday. There is a memorial to him on the Bohola village green. The Irish-American Athletic Club, who he competed for, fell apart not long after he died. The records stood longer.

The song and what happened to the pubs

Three Pubs in Bohola

Brendan Shine recorded "Three Pubs in Bohola" and the song became a fixture for every Mayo emigrant with a radio. It named the three: MacDonald's, Clarke's and Roche's. The narrator is a man returning from three years in London, choosing his village over the city. Since the song was written, Clarke's became the local shop and Roche's became The Village Inn. Two pubs remain. The song still gets played. The village still exists, which is the point the song was making.

Mayor of New York, twice over

The O'Dwyer brothers

William O'Dwyer (1890–1964) was born in this parish and emigrated to New York, where he became District Attorney of Brooklyn and then Mayor of New York City from 1946 to 1950. President Truman appointed him US Ambassador to Mexico. His brother Paul O'Dwyer (1907–1998) stayed in law and politics — a civil liberties attorney and, eventually, President of the New York City Council. Two brothers from a small crossroads in the Barony of Gallen. Their family gave the land for the Cheshire Home at Lismirrane, just outside the village.

04 / 05

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar–May

Quiet roads, green fields, no particular reason to rush.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun–Aug

Central Mayo. You are passing through on your way somewhere. That is fine.

◉ Go
Autumn
Sep–Oct

The crossroads is at its most itself in autumn — calm, a bit grey, entirely unhurried.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov–Feb

The village is small to begin with. In winter it is quieter still. Both pubs are open.

◐ Mind yourself
+

Getting there.

By car

Bohola is on the N5 between Castlebar (20km west) and Swinford (10km east). Foxford is 10km north on the R320. Knock Airport is about 30 minutes.

By bus

Bus Éireann services run the N5 corridor between Castlebar and Dublin. A stop serves the village.

By train

No train. Nearest stations are Foxford or Castlebar, both served from Westport and Dublin Heuston.

By air

Ireland West Airport Knock is the obvious choice — roughly 30 minutes by car.