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RATHMOLYON
CO. MEATH · IE

Rathmolyon
Ráth Moliain, Co. Meath

The Ireland's Ancient East
STOP 07 / 07
Ráth Moliain · Co. Meath

A quiet south-Meath crossroads with an outsized place in religious history - the one place a world religion is known to have started in Ireland.

Rathmolyon does not exist for tourists, and it would be dishonest to pretend otherwise. It exists because there are farms around it and people need somewhere to buy milk, mail a letter and have a pint on a Saturday night. The name is Ráth Moliain - the ringfort of the plain of St Liadhain - and the village sits at a crossroads 8 km south of Trim, where the R156 meets the R159 on the road that runs across to Enfield.

What matters here is a piece of history most people have never heard of. In October 1897 a Faith Mission evangelist named William Irvine was invited to preach near Rathmolyon by a businessman, Jack Carroll. The message was radical - no clergy, no church buildings, apostolic poverty, preachers going out in pairs as in Matthew 10. He recruited his first workers here, and the movement that followed - the Two by Twos, later nicknamed the Cooneyites - spread across six continents. It is the only religion known to have started in Ireland. The first convention was held on a local farm around 1900. The split it caused ran straight through families, and older people in the parish still feel it.

The village itself is small - a few hundred people, two churches both dedicated to St Michael, a row of Georgian and Victorian houses, two pubs, a hurling club in football country. There is nothing to perform for a camera. But if you want to stand in the actual place where something improbable began, this is it. Come on a Monday evening when there is trad on in Harnan's and the rest of the village has gone quiet.

Population
462
Pubs
2and counting
Founded
Medieval parish; St Michael and All Angels (C of I) rebuilt 19th century
Coords
53.489° N, 6.7445° W
01 / 07

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 07

The pubs.

None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:

Harnan's Bar

Family-run, trad on a Monday
Traditional thatched pub

A genuine thatched country pub, run by Junior Harnan as his father and grandfather did before him. Live traditional music on a Monday night - which in a village this size is the social event of the week. The kind of low-beamed, family-owned bar that the rest of Ireland keeps trying to recreate. This is the reason to stop in Rathmolyon.

The second pub

Local
Village pub

Rathmolyon has two public houses serving the village and the farms around it. Harnan's is the named, well-known one with the thatch and the music; the other is an ordinary working local. Between them they cover a Saturday night. Do not expect a choice of gastropubs - this is a village of a few hundred people.

03 / 07

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

Born near Rathmolyon, 1897

The Two by Twos

William Irvine was an evangelist with the interdenominational Faith Mission when, in October 1897, a businessman named Jack Carroll invited him to hold a series of mission meetings near Rathmolyon. Irvine preached that the established churches were false and that the only valid ministry was the itinerant one described in Matthew 10 - workers going out two by two, owning nothing, depending on hospitality. He recruited his first followers here. The first convention was held on a local farm around 1900, with attendees camping for weeks. The movement spread worldwide and is usually counted as the only religion to have originated in Ireland. It was also rigid: Edward Cooney, the preacher whose name stuck to the Irish branch as the Cooneyites, was himself excommunicated in 1928. The doctrine left no church buildings and kept no membership lists, so the place it started has nothing to show a visitor but the fields and the memory.

St Michael, twice over

Two churches, one saint

Rathmolyon has two churches and both are dedicated to St Michael. St Michael's Roman Catholic church was blessed and dedicated in 1968 by Most Rev John McCormack, Bishop of Meath. St Michael and All Angels, the Church of Ireland church, is the older of the two. The village keeps its history in its buildings rather than its monuments - Georgian and Victorian houses including Cherryvalley House, Rathmolyon Villa and Rathmolyon House sit along the roads out of the crossroads. None of it is grand. All of it is intact, which in a small Irish village is its own kind of achievement.

Rathmolyon GAA

A hurling village in football country

Meath is football country - the green and gold of the senior footballers is the county's identity. Rathmolyon is one of the small pockets that goes the other way, fielding a hurling club whose ground sits on the eastern edge of the village. In a county where most parishes barely puck a ball, a working hurling club is a quiet act of local stubbornness, and on a championship Sunday it is the busiest the village gets.

04 / 07

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

The village and crossroads There is no marked trail. Walk the crossroads where the R156 meets the R159, past the two St Michael's churches and the Georgian and Victorian houses, and out a little way on the farm roads. It is a stroll, not a hike, but it is the honest way to read a small Irish service village.
1.5 km loopdistance
30 minutestime
Towards Trim on the R159 The R159 runs north to Trim, 8 km off, and the country lanes around the village are flat, quiet and good for a head-clearing walk between farms. Watch for traffic on the regional road itself - there are no footpaths once you leave the village.
Variabledistance
As far as you liketime
05 / 07

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar-May

The flat south-Meath farmland greens up and the lanes are pleasant. As good a time as any to pass through on the way to Trim.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun-Aug

Long evenings and the hurling championship gives the village its busiest days. Otherwise quiet.

◉ Go
Autumn
Sep-Oct

October is when the Two by Twos story began, and the low light over the fields suits a village that does not perform. A good month to walk it.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov-Feb

Short days and not much open beyond the pubs and the shop. A Monday-night session in Harnan's is the one reliable winter draw.

◐ Mind yourself
06 / 07

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Coming expecting a heritage attraction

The Two by Twos story is genuinely significant, but it left nothing to visit - no church, no plaque, no visitor centre. The movement deliberately built nothing. What you are visiting is the place itself, not a site. Adjust your expectations accordingly.

×
Treating Rathmolyon as a destination in its own right

It is a service village of a few hundred people. Pair it with Trim, 8 km north, which has the castle and the food and the beds. Rathmolyon is a stop, a pint and a story - not a day out.

+

Getting there.

By car

Rathmolyon sits at the R156 / R159 junction, 8 km south of Trim. From Dublin it is about 45 minutes - the M4 west, then north through Enfield or Summerhill on local roads. There is no fast route; the last stretch is regional roads.

By bus

Bus Éireann route 115A gives a commuter link to Dublin via Summerhill and Dunboyne - one morning journey and one evening return, every day except Sunday. It is a commuter service, not a tourist one; plan around it carefully.

By train

No railway. The nearest stations are at Enfield (Dublin-Sligo line) and Dunboyne (the M3 Parkway commuter line), both a drive away. Rathmolyon is not on the network.