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SMITHBOROUGH
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Smithborough
Na Mullaí, Co. Monaghan

The Ireland's Ancient East
STOP 07 / 07
Na Mullaí · Co. Monaghan

One street, one pub, one fair day a year. A drumlin crossroads on the N54 between Monaghan town and Clones.

Smithborough is a one-street village on the N54 roughly halfway between Monaghan town and Clones. The 2016 census put 395 people here. It is the kind of place you would drive through in ninety seconds and not think about again - which is most of its character, not a fault.

It was made, not grown. A man named Smith laid out the village and set up monthly fairs in the latter part of the eighteenth century, and the place took his name: the borough of Smith. The Irish name, Na Mullaí, ignores him and names the land instead - the drumlin tops, the little rounded hills that the whole of Monaghan is built on. The village sits across two of them, Mullaghduff and Mullaghbrack.

Of Smith's fairs, only one survived into modern memory: the Whit-Monday fair for black cattle. The railway came through in 1863 and left again in 1957, and Smithborough went back to being a crossroads with a church, a pub and a petrol station. That is honestly most of what is here. The reason to stop is the court tomb in the fields outside it, and the drumlin country itself, which around here is at its quiet best.

Population
~395 (2016)
Founded
Estate village, 18th century, named for the Smith family
Coords
54.2217° N, 7.0972° W
01 / 07

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 07

The pubs.

None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:

The Skule Inn

The one pub, and a good one
Village pub, Main Street (N54)

Smithborough has one pub and this is it - on the main street through the village. It does a brisk trade for its size, serves pizza, and rates extremely well with the people who actually drink in it. It hosts village events, including local boxing nights. If you stop in Smithborough at all, you stop here. Phone ahead at 047 57062 if you want food.

03 / 07

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

An 18th-century estate village

The borough of Smith

Smithborough is one of the made villages of Ulster - laid out deliberately rather than grown from a crossroads. It takes its name from a landowner called Smith, who established monthly fairs here in the latter part of the eighteenth century. The fairs were the point of the place: a market on a road between two bigger towns. By the time of Lewis in the 1830s the village had a Presbyterian meeting house in connection with the Seceding Synod, a dispensary, a constabulary police station and a school of around sixty children. Of all Smith's fairs, only the Whit-Monday fair for black cattle survived into living memory. The Irish name, Na Mullaí, the drumlin summits, is older and ignores Smith entirely.

c. 3500 BC, National Monument 367

Cairnbaine, the Tiredigan court tomb

In the townland of Tiredegan, a couple of kilometres south of the village, is a dual court tomb known locally as Cairnbaine and on the maps as the Tiredigan court tomb. Court cairns are the oldest megalithic monuments in Ireland, built from around 4000 BC; this one went up about 3500 BC. The trapezoidal cairn is thirty metres long and fifteen wide, with an exposed gallery, one roof slab still in place, and the remains of a stone facade and forecourt where the rituals happened. It is National Monument number 367. It is in a working field, it is not signposted to within an inch of its life, and you will likely have it to yourself.

A station that came and went

The Ulster Railway, 1863 to 1957

Smithborough got a railway station on 2 March 1863, on the Ulster Railway line that later became part of the Great Northern Railway. For nearly a century the village was a stop on a working line. The station and the line closed on 14 October 1957, a casualty of the partition-era cutting of cross-border routes and the general retreat of the Irish railways. The trains are long gone; the settlement stayed where it was.

04 / 07

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

Cairnbaine court tomb Out to the Tiredigan court tomb in the fields south of the village. It is on private farmland and poorly signposted - ask locally, wear boots, close gates, and respect that someone farms the land it stands on. The monument itself is worth the trouble: a 5,500-year-old gallery and forecourt with the country opening out around it.
4-5 km return from villagedistance
1.5 hourstime
Drumlin lanes The back roads around Mullaghduff and Mullaghbrack are classic Monaghan drumlin country - small rounded hills, hedged lanes, little lakes in the dips between them. Quiet walking on quiet roads. Field paths and lanes link toward Scotstown, Ballinode and Newbliss, all within five or six kilometres.
3-5 kmdistance
1-1.5 hourstime
05 / 07

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar-May

The drumlins green up and the lanes are at their best for walking. Whit-Monday, the old black-cattle fair day, falls in late spring.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun-Aug

Settled weather and long evenings. The most forgiving time to go looking for the court tomb in the fields.

◉ Go
Autumn
Sep-Oct

Low light across the drumlins. Quiet and clear.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov-Feb

Grey, wet and short on daylight. The fields around the tomb turn to mud. The pub keeps going regardless.

◐ Mind yourself
06 / 07

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

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Expecting a destination

Smithborough is a village of under 400 people with one street, one pub and a petrol station. It is not a day out in itself. Treat it as a stop on the N54, a pint at the Skule Inn, and a walk out to the court tomb - and it gives you exactly that.

×
Confusing it with Scotstown

Smithborough is not Scotstown - they are two different Monaghan villages a few kilometres apart, and locals will gently correct you if you mix them up. Smithborough is the one on the N54 between Monaghan and Clones.

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Driving to the court tomb

Cairnbaine is in a working field with no car park and no real signage. Do not go hunting for it by car expecting a heritage site with a gate and an information board. Ask in the village, walk in on foot, and treat it as the quiet field monument it is.

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Getting there.

By car

On the N54 midway between Monaghan town (about 15 minutes northeast) and Clones (about 15 minutes southwest). Cavan and the border are close on either side.

By bus

Local Link Cavan Monaghan serves the village on the Monaghan-Clones corridor (the 175A passes through). Services are rural and limited - check timetables before relying on them.