County Roscommon Ireland · Co. Roscommon · Ballyfarnan Save · Share
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BALLYFARNAN
CO. ROSCOMMON · IE

Ballyfarnan
Béal Átha Fearnáin, Co. Roscommon

The Ireland's Hidden Heartlands
STOP 08 / 08
Béal Átha Fearnáin · Co. Roscommon

The village where Ireland's last great harper lived out his days. Turlough O'Carolan is buried up the road, and they have not stopped playing for him since.

Ballyfarnan is a small village in the far north of Roscommon, on the R284 a mile or two short of the Sligo border, built on the River Feorish at the foot of Arigna mountain. The Irish is Béal Átha Fearnáin, the ford-mouth of the alders. A church, a primary school, a GAA pitch, a garage with a shop, and two pubs - one of them not open full-time. Fewer than two hundred people. This is not a destination, and it does not pretend to be one.

What it has is O'Carolan. Turlough O'Carolan, the blind harper who is as close as Ireland has to a national composer, was brought here as a young man when his family came to work for the MacDermott Roes of Alderford House around 1684. He had lost his sight to smallpox; Mrs MacDermott Roe set him up with a harp and a guide and a horse, and he spent the next fifty years travelling the big houses of Connacht and Ulster, composing the planxties and airs that musicians still play. He came back here to die in 1738, in the house where he had been taken in.

He is buried two miles up the road at Kilronan, in the MacDermott Roe vault under the gable of a ruined church that goes back, in its first form, to the eighth century and St Lasair. The harp festival that commemorates him runs out of Keadue, the next village over, every August bank holiday weekend and has done since 1978. The rest of the year Ballyfarnan is quiet, and honest about it.

If you come, come for the man and the landscape - the river, the mountain, the well, the grave - not for a night out. The big house on the hill, Kilronan Castle, is a hotel now and the only proper bed for miles. Everything else here is small and worth slowing down for.

Population
~187 (2016)
Pubs
2and counting
Founded
Parish village of Kilronan; market and fair village from the early 1800s
Coords
54.0725° N, 8.2047° W
01 / 08

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 08

The pubs.

None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:

The village pubs

Local, quiet, unbothered
Two bars, one part-time

Ballyfarnan has two pubs and that is the honest count - and one of the two is not open full-time. This is a village of fewer than two hundred people. Do not arrive expecting a session on a Tuesday in February. Around the August harp festival the area comes alive; the rest of the year a pint here is a quiet local affair, which is rather the point.

03 / 08

Where to sleep.

PlaceTypeLocal note
Kilronan Castle Estate & Spa 4-star castle hotel, on Lough Meelagh The one proper bed for miles. A nineteenth-century castle - built around 1820 as Castle Tenison for the Tenison family - on the shore of Lough Meelagh, restored as a four-star hotel with a spa and grounds. It is the festival's grand venue and the only luxury for a wide radius. Book ahead around the August bank holiday.
04 / 08

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

Blind harper, 1670 to 1738

Turlough O'Carolan

Born near Nobber in Co. Meath around 1670, O'Carolan came to Ballyfarnan as a teenager when his father took work with the MacDermott Roe family of Alderford House. Blinded by smallpox at eighteen, he was apprenticed to a harper by Mrs MacDermott Roe and sent out on the road. For half a century he travelled the houses of the Gaelic and Anglo-Irish gentry, composing as he went - over two hundred tunes survive, the planxties named for the patrons who fed and housed him. He is the last and greatest of the Irish harper-composers. He came home to Alderford to die in 1738.

Eighth-century church, the harper's grave

Kilronan and St Lasair

Two miles from the village, the ruined church at Kilronan stands on a site said to go back to the eighth century and St Ronan and his daughter St Lasair. One gable of a fourteenth-century rebuild still stands, and beneath it is the vault of the MacDermott Roes, where O'Carolan was laid in 1738. St Lasair's well, a spring-fed holy well, is nearby and still visited. The graveyard is the destination for the festival's O'Carolan's Trail walk each August.

Two centuries underground

Arigna and the coal

Arigna mountain, six kilometres east, held the only worked coal seams in this part of Ireland. Men from Ballyfarnan and the villages around it mined it for the best part of two centuries, until the last pit closed in 1990. A memorial garden on the bank of the Feorish in the village remembers the fair-day crowds and the miners who walked out to Arigna. The Arigna Mining Experience visitor centre, a few kilometres on, is run by men who worked the seams.

05 / 08

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

O'Carolan's Trail to Kilronan The pilgrimage walk: out from the village toward Kilronan, the ruined church and the MacDermott Roe vault where O'Carolan lies, with St Lasair's well off to the side. Quiet country road most of the year; the festival walks it formally on the August bank holiday weekend. Mind the traffic - it is a working road, not a trail.
Around 4 km each way by roaddistance
A half day with the well and the gravetime
The Feorish and the memorial garden The garden on the river bank in the village remembers the fair days and the Arigna miners. A short, plain walk by the water that gives you the lie of the place - the river that named it, the mountain behind it.
Short riverside strolldistance
20 minutestime
06 / 08

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar-May

The Feorish runs full, the mountain greens up, and the country roads are empty. A good time for the grave and the well in peace.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun-Aug

The August bank holiday is the week to come: the O'Carolan Harp Festival and Summer School fills Keadue and the area with harpers, concerts, recitals at Kilronan Castle and the trail walk. The one time the village is properly busy.

◉ Go
Autumn
Sep-Oct

Quiet, the light low on Arigna, the festival crowds gone. Good walking weather and the roads to yourself.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov-Feb

Short days and a properly quiet village - with one pub possibly shut. Come for the landscape and the grave, not for company. The castle hotel keeps the lights on.

◐ Mind yourself
07 / 08

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Expecting a nightlife

Two pubs, one part-time, fewer than two hundred people. Outside the August festival this is a quiet rural village. Adjust your expectations and you will not be disappointed; arrive looking for a buzz and you will be.

×
The Battle of Curlew Pass

An understandable mix-up - the famous 1599 ambush was on the Curlew Mountains near Boyle, a good drive south of here, not at Ballyfarnan. Do not come to this village looking for that battlefield. Come for O'Carolan instead.

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Getting there.

By car

Ballyfarnan is on the R284 in north Roscommon, close to the Sligo border. Carrick-on-Shannon is around 30 km south-east; Boyle around 18 km south-west; Sligo around 35 km north-west. Keadue, the festival village, is the next stop over. You will want a car here - the public transport is thin.

By bus

No frequent scheduled service through the village. Local Link runs limited rural routes in north Roscommon and south Leitrim; check timetables before relying on them. The realistic option is to drive.

By train

The nearest railway is Carrick-on-Shannon (around 30 km) or Boyle (around 18 km), both on the Dublin to Sligo line. From either, you finish the journey by car.