Bealach Caorthainn · Co. Westmeath
Four kilometres out of Athlone, a turn off the N55, and the inner lakes of Lough Ree begin.
Ballykeeran is a roadside village on the N55, four and a half kilometres north of Athlone, on the way to Glasson and Ballymahon. The Breensford River runs down through it and into Lough Ree. There is a pub, a few houses, a caravan park on the lake, and a long string of holiday lets along the lanes that drop towards the water. Most of what makes Ballykeeran tick is what is round it - Athlone south, Glasson and the Wineport north, the inner lakes of Lough Ree behind.
The shape of the place on the map is the road and the river. The N55 carries everything north out of Athlone; the council has been planning a bypass for years and the village will eventually be lifted off the through-traffic, which it will not regret. The Breensford River cuts across the road and falls a short distance to the lake. The corn mill on it, in ruins now, was used at one point as an RIC barracks before the buildings went over. The village is in the townland of Annagh, looking out across the water at the Roscommon shore.
Come for the lake, mostly. Hire a small boat at Glasson Lakehouse and they will run you through the channel into Ballykeeran Lough; in the evening, walk down one of the lanes off the main road and find the shore for yourself. Do not come expecting a town. Athlone is twelve minutes south and that is where the dinner is.