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CHARLEMONT
CO. ARMAGH · IE

Charlemont
Achadh an Dá Charad

The Ireland's Ancient East
STOP 06 / 06
Achadh an Dá Charad · Co. Armagh

A river, a bridge, a vanished star fort — and a twin village in another county across the water.

Charlemont is a single street, a square, and a bridge over the River Blackwater, with a hundred-odd people living in it. Walk west across the bridge and you've left County Armagh and entered County Tyrone — the village on the other side is called Moy. The river is the boundary; the two places are otherwise one settlement, sharing a butcher, a chemist, and four centuries of the same history. The pubs are mostly on the Tyrone side. The fort that gave Charlemont its name is on this one.

The name comes from Charles Blount, 8th Baron Mountjoy, the Elizabethan commander who built a star fort here in 1602 to lock down the Blackwater valley against Hugh O'Neill, Earl of Tyrone. The Nine Years' War was almost over by then; this was the iron the queen drove into the wound to make sure it stayed shut. The fort stood for three hundred and eighteen years, changed hands twice in the Confederate Wars, and was finally burned by the IRA in July 1920. The gatehouse is the only building left, and the earthworks of the bastions can still be picked out in the long grass behind it.

What's here now is a bridge, a chapel, a few rows of houses on the Armagh bank, and a great deal of riverside quiet. The weight of the place is historical, not commercial — for food, drink, music or a bed, you cross to Moy. Treat that not as a shortcoming but as the texture: this is one of the few villages in Ireland where the working centre and the historical core sit on opposite sides of a county boundary, joined by a stone arch built by the man who later built the railway.

Population
109
Walk score
Bridge to gatehouse in five minutes
Founded
1602
Coords
54.4458° N, 6.6753° W
01 / 06

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 06

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

1602 — the Nine Years' War

Mountjoy's fort

Charles Blount, Lord Mountjoy, was the Lord Deputy who finally broke Hugh O'Neill's rebellion. After Kinsale in late 1601, his army moved north into Ulster scorching everything that could feed a resistance. In the summer of 1602 he reached the Blackwater, built a bridge, and on the Armagh bank threw up an earthen star fort with four bastions. He named it for himself — Charles + mont. A garrison of 150 under Sir Toby Caulfeild moved in. The fort was modern by the standards of the day, one of only a handful of artillery forts then standing in Ireland, and that modernity is why it mattered for the next fifty years.

1641

Sir Phelim and the rising

On the night of 22 October 1641 the Ulster Irish rose. Sir Phelim O'Neill — who had been dining at Charlemont with the governor, Lord Caulfeild, the great-nephew of Sir Toby — seized the fort by trick rather than by storm. The garrison was overpowered, Caulfeild taken prisoner. Charlemont became the chief Confederate fortress in mid-Ulster and stayed in Irish hands for the next nine years. Caulfeild was later shot dead in custody, an act for which Sir Phelim was eventually hanged.

5 June 1646

Benburb

Owen Roe O'Neill brought the Ulster Confederate army up from Cavan in May 1646. Robert Munro's Scottish Covenanters marched south to intercept him. O'Neill crossed the Blackwater above Charlemont, camped at Benburb on the Tyrone bank a day before Munro thought he could, and let the Scots wear themselves out marching twenty-four kilometres in summer heat to reach him. The Scots arrived exhausted; O'Neill held his pike-and-musket formation through their cavalry charge, then advanced into the river bend and pushed them into the water. Munro lost between two and three thousand men. O'Neill lost about three hundred. It was the largest Irish field victory of the seventeenth century — and Charlemont was the Confederate base behind it.

Siege of Charlemont, 1650

The last stand

Four years later, after the Confederate cause had been broken at Scariffhollis in Donegal, Sir Phelim O'Neill — the only senior Irish commander to escape that field — fell back on Charlemont with what was left of the Ulster army. Charles Coote arrived with Cromwell's New Model Army in July 1650 and besieged the fort. After a month of close-quarter fighting, with powder almost gone, O'Neill asked for terms on 14 August. He got generous ones: march out with arms, head for a port, take ship for the continent. By the count of soldiers killed, the siege of Charlemont was the second-bloodiest fight the Parliamentarians had in Ireland — beaten only by Clonmel.

30 July 1920

The fire

The fort lasted as a barracks and then a private house for two and a half centuries after Cromwell. On the night of 30 July 1920, in the early months of the War of Independence, around forty armed men of the IRA arrived at the gates, overpowered the lone caretaker, and set the place alight. The main block burned to its foundations. The seventeenth-century gatehouse — set apart from the main building — survived. That gatehouse, the bastion lines underfoot, and the name on the map are what's left of three centuries of garrison.

03 / 06

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

The fort and the river From the village square, walk down to the gatehouse and the field beyond — the four bastions of the 1602 star fort are still legible in the grass if you know to look. Loop back along the Blackwater. Wear something you don't mind getting wet at the cuffs.
1.5 kmdistance
30 minutestime
Across the bridge to Moy Walk over Dargan's 1855 bridge, into Moy's wide tree-lined square — laid out by the Earl of Charlemont in the eighteenth century in deliberate imitation of Marengo in Lombardy. Pubs on the far side. Different county under your feet by the time you order.
1 km returndistance
20 minutestime
Argory demesne Three kilometres downriver, the National Trust's Argory house sits on a wooded bend of the Blackwater with riverside walks, a walled garden, and a working acetylene gas plant from 1906. Free for grounds, fee for the house. Plenty of parking.
5 km of pathsdistance
1.5 — 2 hourstime
04 / 06

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar–May

River high, the Argory demesne wakes up, the gatehouse field is at its most legible before the grass grows long.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun–Aug

Long evenings on the bridge. Moy gets busy on Friday nights with sessions in Tomney's.

◉ Go
Autumn
Sep–Oct

Beech down the Argory drive turns gold. The river runs hard. Few visitors.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov–Feb

The Blackwater floods regularly; the low road by the gatehouse can go under. Check before you drive in.

◐ Mind yourself
05 / 06

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Looking for the fort building itself

It's gone — burned in 1920. What's there is a gatehouse and the outline of bastions in a field. If you arrive expecting a castle to walk around, you'll leave disappointed. Read the field instead.

×
Searching for a pub on the Armagh side

There isn't one in the village. The pubs are across the bridge in Moy — that's how it's always been. It's a two-minute walk, and you've crossed a county to get there.

×
Treating Moy and Charlemont as separate trips

They're one settlement split by a river. Park on either side, walk the bridge, do both. Anything else is just paperwork.

+

Getting there.

By car

Armagh is 8km south on the A29, about 12 minutes. Dungannon is 8km north up the same road. Belfast is an hour up the M1.

By bus

Translink Ulsterbus 278 (Armagh–Dungannon) runs through Moy and stops at the bridge. Hourly Monday to Saturday, less on Sunday.

By train

Nearest station is Portadown (15 minutes by car) on the Belfast–Dublin Enterprise line.

By air

Belfast International (BFS) is 50 minutes up the M1. Dublin Airport (DUB) is 90 minutes south.