Bun Ratha · Co. Clare
Castle, folk park, ancient pub — five minutes off the runway, all of it real, none of it quiet.
Bunratty is a village the size of a postage stamp with a castle, a folk park, a famous pub, and a small fleet of hotels gathered around them. It is five minutes by car from Shannon Airport, which is the whole story. For a lot of Americans, this is the first Irish village they ever stand in. For some, it is the only one. The place has been shaped by that fact for seventy years.
What's actually here is good. The castle is the best-restored tower house in the country — Lord Gort, an English peer with money and a quiet obsession, took a roofless ruin in 1954 and put it back together with the help of John Hunt, with original 15th and 16th-century furniture sourced from across Europe. The Folk Park around it is a thirty-acre reconstructed village of cottages, shops, a forge, a school, all moved stone-by-stone from sites that were about to be lost. It is theme-park-shaped, but the buildings are real and the story is true.
What is also here is the most-photographed pub in Ireland, two hotels with the word Castle in the name, and a medieval banquet served twice nightly that has been running since 1963. Whether the banquet is fun or excruciating depends entirely on the table you draw, the wine you drink, and how seriously you take a man in tights singing a madrigal. We have notes on all of it below.
Don't write Bunratty off because the coaches go there. Come at half-nine in the morning, before the buses, walk the Folk Park properly, eat lunch at MacCloskey's or Gallagher's, and leave by three. Or come for one drink in Durty Nelly's at five, before the dinner crowd, when the locals are still in. The honest village is in there. You just have to pick your hour.