Béal Guala · Co. Cork
A commuter village five kilometres short of Kinsale, with a ruined distillery, two pubs, and an agricultural show that has run since the 1940s.
Belgooly is not a destination. It is a pause on the road between Cork city and Kinsale, and it has the honesty to know it. The village sits where the Stick River meets the Belgooly River, which runs south through a tidal estuary to Oysterhaven Bay. The R600 carries the traffic, and almost all of that traffic is going somewhere else - the harbour, the restaurants, the forts, five kilometres further south.
The place that exists now is mostly recent. According to the 2016 census, two hundred of the village's two hundred and fifty-eight private homes were built between 2001 and 2010 - a residential settlement that grew on the commuter boom, rural postcodes for city wages. The 2022 census put the population at 823. There is a shop with a post office, a Roman Catholic church (the Church of the Sacred Heart), a GAA club, and two pubs. That is the village.
What history there is sits in a ruin. A flour mill went up here in 1832; in the 1870s someone turned it into a pot still whiskey distillery, triple-distilled and aged four years, said to have a good body and a fine aroma. It did not pay. The building was taken apart in the 1940s and the shell still stands by the river. One curiosity: on 26 August 1941 a Luftwaffe Junkers Ju 88 was shot down by the RAF and crashed close to the village.
Come if you are staying nearby and want a quieter pint than Kinsale's, or if you hit the village on show day in May when the field fills with livestock and machinery and the whole place turns out. Otherwise Belgooly is the space before the coast. That is a fair thing for a village to be.