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RIVERSTICK
CO. CORK · IE

Riverstick
Áth an Mhaide, Co. Cork

The Wild Atlantic Way
STOP 07 / 07
Áth an Mhaide · Co. Cork

A commuter village on the Cork to Kinsale road with one good pub, a hunger striker's memorial, and a ruined monastery hidden up the lane at Cullen.

Riverstick is a commuter village on the R600, the old road from Cork city down to Kinsale. The drive to Cork is about twenty minutes, Kinsale is ten minutes south, and that location is the whole story of the place. It is where people who work in the city and want a Kinsale postcode ended up. Housing estates went in through the 1990s and 2000s. The name, Áth an Mhaide, means the ford of the stick, after the modest River Stick that crosses under the road.

The facilities are what a commuter village needs and no more: one pub, a shop, a service station, a chipper, a pharmacy, a community hall. There is a Catholic church, St Joseph's, built in 1972, and a Church of Ireland church. It supplanted the older settlement of Ballymartle through the last century, though Ballymartle keeps the GAA club and the parish history.

Nobody is telling you to plan a day here. But there are two reasons to slow down if you are passing. One is the River Inn, a third-generation family pub that does the job a village pub should. The other is up the lane at Cullen, where a monastery old enough to be named in the eighth-century Martyrology of Tallaght sat on a mound called the Moat, with a Norman castle below it. Both are ruined now, but the field and the name survive, and the story is better than the village's commuter-belt reputation suggests.

Population
772 (2022)
Pubs
1and counting
Founded
Grew through the 20th century, overtaking older Ballymartle nearby
Coords
51.7870° N, 8.4990° W
01 / 07

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 07

The pubs.

None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:

The River Inn

Third-generation family local
Village pub (also known as Allen's Bar)

The one pub in the village, run by the same family across three generations. It is the social centre of a place that does not have many - the spot where the commute ends and the village such as it is actually meets. Honest village bar, no airs. If you are stopping in Riverstick at all, this is why.

03 / 07

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

Riverstick farm, 1883 to the Curragh, 1923

Denny Barry, the hunger striker

Denis Barry was born into a farming family at Riverstick in 1883. He was a Gaelic Leaguer and a hurler before he was a soldier, then a commandant in the Cork No. 1 Brigade of the IRA. He took the anti-Treaty side in the Civil War, was interned at Newbridge in 1922 without charge, and joined the mass hunger strike of 1923. He died on 20 November 1923, after 35 days, in the Curragh camp hospital. What made his death notorious was what followed: Daniel Cohalan, the Bishop of Cork, forbade the Catholic churches to open their doors to his coffin - a pointed contrast to the funeral the same bishop had given the hunger striker Terence MacSwiney three years earlier. The village put up a memorial stone to Barry in 1966 and still lays a wreath for him each November.

A monastery in the Martyrology of Tallaght

Cullen of the scholars

Leave the village toward Ballymartle and you enter the old parish of Cullen, Cuilinn, an early Christian monastic site important enough to be one of the few Cork places named in the Martyrology of Tallaght, compiled around 800 AD. It was called Cullen na Cléarach, Cullen of the scholars or clerics, and the feast of its saint, Flann Fionn, falls on 14 January. The abbacy stayed in the Barry-óg family for generations. The Taxation of Pope Nicholas valued the church at five marks in 1291. By 1700 it was a ruin standing on a mound the locals called the Moat. South of it, on what became O'Connell's farm, stood a small Norman castle of the manor of Glyn, held by the de Cogans and later by Richard Roche of Kinsale, who lost it after the Confederate wars; it was gone by 1659. Twenty feet of its wall was still standing into the early 1900s.

04 / 07

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

Cullen monastic site and the Moat Head out of the village toward Ballymartle into the old parish of Cullen. The monastic site sat on the raised mound called the Moat with the castle ruin below on a private farm. There is no visitor centre and little signage - this is a walk for the curious, not a heritage attraction. Respect the farm boundaries. The reward is the lie of the land and the knowledge of what stood here twelve hundred years ago.
Short, on quiet lanesdistance
30-45 minutestime
Oysterhaven estuary The River Stick drains south into the Oysterhaven estuary, a sheltered tidal inlet a few kilometres away. Park at Oysterhaven and walk the shore lanes. It is the prettiest water near Riverstick and the reason to point the car south rather than north.
Variesdistance
An hour or moretime
05 / 07

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar-May

Quiet roads, the estuary at Oysterhaven at its best, Kinsale not yet thronged. A good time to be on the back lanes around Cullen.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun-Aug

The R600 carries the Kinsale traffic and it can crawl on a fine weekend. The village itself stays quiet; it is the road that fills.

◐ Mind yourself
Autumn
Sep-Oct

The Denny Barry commemoration falls in November but the wreath-laying season and the soft autumn light suit the Cullen lanes. Kinsale calms down.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov-Feb

Short days, little to do indoors beyond the pub. The memorial commemoration in November is the one fixed point in the village calendar.

◐ Mind yourself
06 / 07

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Treating Riverstick as a destination

It is a commuter village, not a tourist village. There is one pub, a shop and a chipper. Come for the pint, the monastery lane or as a quick stop on the way to Kinsale - not for a day out it cannot give you.

×
Expecting visible ruins at Cullen

The monastery and castle are long gone to grass and a low mound on private farmland. There is no signage and nothing to climb. The interest is the history and the location, not a photogenic ruin.

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Getting there.

By car

On the R600 between Cork city and Kinsale, about 20 km south of Cork. Twenty minutes from the city, ten from Kinsale. Cork Airport is roughly fifteen minutes north.

By bus

The Cork to Kinsale bus (Bus Éireann route 226) runs along the R600 and stops near the village. Check current timetables - frequency is built around the Kinsale commute, not the visitor.

By air

Cork Airport (ORK) is about 15 minutes north up the R600, the closest airport by a wide margin.