Crookhaven sits on the Mizen Peninsula - one of Ireland"s tips, where the land finally shrugs and lets the Atlantic win. The hamlet is small. The harbour is smaller. The view across to Streek Head is infinite.
The bay has been sheltering ships since the 17th century. Atlantic convoys watered here in the wars. In 1902, Guglielmo Marconi set up a wireless telegraphy station - one of a chain strung down Ireland"s southwestern coast. The station is gone, but the signal lingers in the archives.
O"Sullivan"s sits on the harbour wall and serves what passes for civilization: a pint, some food in summer, the occasional local. July and August fill with sailing yachts using the anchorage. September empties them out again. This is a place that knows its seasons and doesn"t argue with them.
None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:
Right on the water. Does food in summer when the yachts are in. Winter is just whiskey and talk. No pretence, no menu board, just what"s needed.
The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.
Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.
There is no bad time. There are different times.
The yachts are in, O"Sullivan"s has food, the light is relentless. Peak season for a place with no hotels.
The boats leave. The weather turns. It"s quiet again. Better for thinking.
Most of the village shuts. O"Sullivan"s stays open. The wind has opinions. This is for people who came here on purpose.
The yachts are starting to arrive. The light gets better every week. Quieter than summer, warmer than autumn.
Skibbereen to Crookhaven is 26km - 40 min on the R591. This is the long way to the edge of things.
Minimal service. Check locally. The world doesn"t stop here often.
Cork is 60km. Shannon is 2 hours. Neither is convenient. That"s rather the point.