County Dublin Ireland · Co. Dublin · Dún Laoghaire Save · Share
POSTED FROM
DÚN LAOGHAIRE
CO. DUBLIN · IE

Dún Laoghaire
Dún Laoghaire, Co. Dublin

The Ireland's Ancient East
STOP 01 / 08
Dún Laoghaire · Co. Dublin

Two granite piers, a Sunday market, and a DART. The east pier walk is what Dubliners do when they need air.

Dún Laoghaire is a harbour town, and everything radiates from the harbour. The twin granite piers - East and West - were built between 1817 and 1842 by engineer John Rennie, using stone quarried specifically for the project in nearby Dalkey and hauled up by tramway. The East Pier walk is a Dublin Sunday tradition in a way that has nothing to do with tourism: people bring dogs, children, elderly relatives, and thermoses of tea. The lighthouse at the end is the turning point. You walk back into the wind and feel like you've earned something.

The town itself has a full-scale dining scene, a remarkable new library on the waterfront - the Lexicon, opened 2014, five storeys, almost as many visitors per year as the National Library - and the National Maritime Museum in the old Mariners' Church on Haigh Terrace. Two kilometres north, at Sandycove, the Martello tower where James Joyce spent six days in 1904 is now a free museum. The first chapter of Ulysses is set on its roof. Joyce left after a revolver incident at midnight; the tower stayed.

A note on the ferry: Dún Laoghaire had a high-speed Stena Line service to Holyhead that was the romantic way to cross to Wales. It was discontinued. Ferries to Holyhead now leave from Dublin Port. The harbour is still working - yachts, the lifeboat, the occasional cargo - but the big ferry is gone. Plan accordingly if you need to cross.

Population
~25,000
Walk score
East Pier to West Pier is a full afternoon
Founded
Piers built 1817-1842
Coords
53.2942° N, 6.1358° W
01 / 07

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 07

Where to eat.

PlaceTypeLocal note
Hartley's Restaurant, Victorian railway building €€€ In a former railway station on the seafront - high ceilings, harbour terrace, European menu. The terrace on a calm evening is one of the better seats in south Dublin.
Cala Mediterranean-inspired restaurant €€ Seasonal Irish produce treated with Mediterranean technique. The menu changes regularly. Less formal than Hartley's, just as good.
People's Park market Sunday market Fifty-plus vendors, Sundays 10am to 4pm. Hot food, brown bread, artisan products. The best version of a Dublin Sunday market. Get there early.
03 / 07

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

Largest man-made harbour in the world, 1842

The piers

John Rennie designed the twin piers after an Act of Parliament in 1817. The East Pier's first stone was laid by the Lord Lieutenant, Earl Whitworth, that same year. The granite came from a purpose-built quarry in Dalkey, carried on tramlines specifically laid for the project. By 1842 both piers were complete, with a lighthouse on the East Pier and a gun saluting station - one of only a few ever built in Ireland. At that moment, Dún Laoghaire had the largest artificial harbour in the world.

Sandycove, 2 km north. Free entry.

The Joyce Tower

The Martello tower at Sandycove Point was built by the British in the early 19th century against the threat of Napoleonic invasion. In September 1904, James Joyce stayed there for six days as a guest of his university friend Oliver St John Gogarty, who had leased it from the War Office with a plan to 'Hellenise' Ireland. The stay ended after a midnight incident involving a loaded revolver. Joyce left; the tower stayed. His novel Ulysses opens on its roof, and the museum that has been there since 1962 holds his letters, his walking stick, and various other possessions. Admission is free. It is a short walk north from the town along the seafront.

Busiest public library in Ireland

The Lexicon

The dlr LexIcon opened on the waterfront in December 2014 - a five-storey building that won multiple awards on opening. It is now the busiest public library in Ireland by visitor numbers: four million people since it opened, more per year than most Dublin attractions that charge admission. The building sits directly opposite the National Maritime Museum in the old Mariners' Church. On a Sunday morning, between the market outside and the reading rooms inside, it is the best argument for public infrastructure you will find in this part of the city.

In the old Mariners' Church, Haigh Terrace

The National Maritime Museum

The National Maritime Museum of Ireland opened in 1978 inside the former Mariners' Church on Haigh Terrace - a 180-year-old building that has found a second purpose as good as its first. The collection covers Irish maritime history with maps, models, navigation equipment, and the stories of ships and the people who crewed them. Access is either from Georges Street Upper or from the seafront side via steps beside the Lexicon.

04 / 07

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

East Pier walk Out to the lighthouse at the end, back. Simple. Do it before the Sunday market - the light on the bay in the morning is better than the light in the afternoon. The wind is worse. Bring a layer.
2.6 km returndistance
45 min-1 hourtime
West Pier walk Less used than the East Pier. Quieter. The views back to the town and across to Howth are worth the walk. The pier surface is rougher and gets wetter in bad weather.
~3 km returndistance
50 mintime
Dún Laoghaire to Sandycove Walk north along the seafront from the town past the bathers at the Forty Foot (a famous open-sea swimming spot, year-round, all weathers) to Sandycove Point and the Joyce Tower. One of the best short walks in south Dublin.
2.5 km one waydistance
30 mintime
05 / 07

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar-May

The pier walk in spring light is the whole thing. The market is up and running. The Forty Foot swimmers are undeterred by the temperature.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun-Aug

Busy on weekends. The market gets crowded. Book restaurants. But the long evenings on the pier are genuinely excellent.

◐ Mind yourself
Autumn
Sep-Oct

The locals' season. The crowds ease. The storms begin. The pier is best when there's some weather.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov-Feb

The pier walk in a January storm is an experience. The restaurants are still open. The Forty Foot swimmers are still at it. Dún Laoghaire does not shut down in winter.

◉ Go
06 / 07

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
The ferry to Holyhead from here

The Dún Laoghaire to Holyhead Stena Line service has been discontinued. Ferries to Wales leave from Dublin Port now. Check before you plan around it.

×
Driving to the Sunday market

Parking in Dún Laoghaire on a Sunday morning is its own ordeal. Take the DART - fifteen minutes from Pearse or Tara Street station. Walk straight to the market from the station.

×
Skipping the West Pier because it's less famous

The East Pier gets the walkers. The West Pier gets the silence. They go to the same harbour from the same starting point. Walk one out, the other back.

+

Getting there.

By car

Dún Laoghaire is 12 km south of Dublin city centre on the N31. Parking is available but limited on weekends near the harbour.

By bus

Multiple Dublin Bus routes (46A, 7, 45A, 111). Journey from the city centre 30-45 minutes depending on traffic.

By train

DART to Dún Laoghaire station - 20 minutes from Tara Street, 15 from Pearse. The station is a five-minute walk from the piers. The easiest option.