County Fermanagh Ireland · Co. Fermanagh · Garrison Save · Share
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GARRISON
CO. FERMANAGH · IE

Garrison
An Garastún, Co. Fermanagh

The Ireland's Hidden Heartlands
STOP 08 / 08
An Garastún · Co. Fermanagh

A small village on a big lake, with four fish species found nowhere else on earth.

Garrison is at the end of the road in southwest Fermanagh, where the land runs down to Lough Melvin and the county stops. The village is small - a church, a handful of houses, two pubs, and the lough stretching west toward the Leitrim hills. The Roogagh River comes through the middle of it. In terms of what's here, that is more or less it.

What makes the place significant is almost entirely underwater. Lough Melvin holds four distinct salmonid forms found nowhere else in the world: the gillaroo, a deep-bodied trout with crimson spots that feeds on lough-bottom snails; the sonaghen, a silvery, black-finned trout of the open deep water; the ferox, an ancient, cannibalistic trout that hunts other fish; and Gray's charr, a critically endangered species recorded in only a few dozen individuals since the 1970s. The genetics lab at Queen's University Belfast has spent decades working out how four separate lineages survived in one lough. The short answer involves the last ice age and a very long time undisturbed.

The village's name is blunter than its surroundings. After the Battle of Aughrim in 1691, William III established a military garrison here on the border of his new order. The soldiers are long gone. The name stayed. So did the border - this corner of Fermanagh was listed in the 1925 Boundary Commission report as territory to be transferred to the Irish Free State. The Commission's recommendations were never enacted. The border stayed where it was, running through the middle of the lough, and Garrison stayed in Northern Ireland.

Come for the fishing. Come in spring for the salmon run, in early summer for the sonaghen, through the season for the gillaroo on the dry fly in late summer. You will need a ghillie if you don't know the water. The pubs will point you to one. There is not much else going on, and that is precisely the point.

Population
~411
Pubs
2and counting
Walk score
Village in five minutes; lough shore is the point
Coords
54.4263° N, 8.1003° W
01 / 08

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 08

The pubs.

None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:

The Riverside Bar

Welcoming, lough-facing
Traditional pub with food

On Main Street, recently refurbished but unhurried about it. Bar food Friday to Sunday, Sunday lunch from 12.30. The owner Gabriel is reliably mentioned in reviews by name, which tells you something about how it's run.

The Melvin Bar

Old stock, no fuss
Rural local

Out at Knockarevan, a short drive from the village centre. One of those pubs that has been here so long it has become part of the landscape. Not a destination bar - a locals' bar. Which is better.

03 / 08

Where to sleep.

PlaceTypeLocal note
Melvin Country House Guesthouse Six en-suite rooms, family-run by Frances and Martin, purpose-built with views of the lough and the Leitrim hills. Strong reputation for breakfast. Evening meals available on request. The natural base for anyone coming to fish - they know the water and can point you toward a ghillie.
04 / 08

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

The genetics question

Four fish, one lough

Lough Melvin holds four distinct salmonid forms found nowhere else: the gillaroo (Salmo stomachius), a bottom-feeding trout with golden flanks and crimson spots whose name comes from the Irish giolla rua, meaning 'red fellow'; the sonaghen (Salmo nigripinnis), a silvery, black-finned trout of deep open water with a fight out of all proportion to its size; the ferox, an ancient subspecies that cannibalises other trout and may have colonised Ireland up to 50,000 years ago; and Gray's charr (Salvelinus grayi), a critically endangered species with a pink-red belly, recorded at only 12 individuals in a 2001 survey. All four are reproductively isolated, homing to separate spawning grounds within the same body of water. The lake is, by any measure, one of the most scientifically important freshwater habitats in Europe.

The disappearing fish

Gray's charr

Gray's charr - also called the Melvin charr or, historically, the freshwater herring - was described formally by the zoologist Albert Günther in 1862 and named after his colleague John Edward Gray. It lives at ten to thirty metres depth, feeds on water fleas, and spawns in shallow rocky areas in November. Recorded numbers: 33 in 1975, 42 in 1986, 12 in 2001. In 2003, a rescue plan to relocate fish to a nearby reservoir failed because, despite extensive searching, no fish could be found at all. The introduction of rudd and roach into the lough, and rising phosphorus from agricultural runoff, are the likely causes of its collapse. It is listed as critically endangered by the IUCN. Whether it still exists is genuinely uncertain.

William III and the map that was never drawn

A garrison on the border

The village's name comes from a military post established here after the Battle of Aughrim in 1691, when William III planted troops along the new order's western edge. Two centuries later, the 1925 Irish Boundary Commission - set up to adjust the border between Northern Ireland and the Irish Free State - recommended that Garrison be transferred south. The Commission's report was suppressed and never enacted; the border stayed exactly where it was, and the village remained in Northern Ireland. The lough it sits on still straddles both jurisdictions. The Fermanagh shore is UK. The Leitrim shore is Ireland. The fish, as noted, are indifferent.

A wedding, a bomb

The Melvin Hotel, January 1972

In January 1972, the Melvin Hotel in Garrison - then owned by the McGovern family - was blown up by the IRA during a Catholic wedding reception. The stated reason was that the hotel had allowed members of the security forces to stay on the premises. No deaths are recorded in the sources. The building is gone. The hotel's name survives in the Melvin Bar and in the lough it overlooked.

05 / 08

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

Lough Melvin Shore The B52 east shore road follows the lough north from the village. On foot you can walk as far as the lough views hold your interest. No formal trail infrastructure - this is a quiet road, low traffic, and the lough is to your left. Bring boots; the verges are soft after rain.
Variable - lough road accessible on footdistance
1-3 hours depending on distancetime
Loch Formal, Garrison A wooded lane route through bridges and streams with views across the Fermanagh landscape. Two loop options available from the Garrison area. Quieter and less well-signposted than the managed trails further east in the county - check conditions locally before heading out.
4 km or 11 km optionsdistance
1-3 hourstime
06 / 08

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Feb-May

Spring salmon run from February. By April the lough is alive with activity. The best fishing window of the year, and the quietest in terms of visitors. Book accommodation early - the anglers get there first.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun-Aug

Grilse arrive from May. Late summer - August especially - is the gillaroo dry-fly season, when the fish come to the surface and can be taken on a well-presented fly. Long evenings on the water. The best time to see the lough at its most alive.

◉ Go
Autumn
Sep-Oct

Fishing winds down through September. The lough is beautiful in autumn light but most of the angling season is behind you. Come for the walking and the quiet - the tourist activity around the lough drops sharply after August.

◐ Mind yourself
Winter
Nov-Jan

Very little open. The village is quiet even by its own standards. Gray's charr spawns in November in the shallow rocky edges of the lough - not that you will see it, but it is happening. Come only if solitude is specifically the point.

◐ Mind yourself
07 / 08

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Arriving without a plan to fish

The lough is the whole reason to be here. If you are not fishing, there is a short walk, two pubs, and a guesthouse. That is a fine afternoon, not a destination. Come for the fishing, or come as a detour from somewhere else.

×
Fishing without a ghillie

Lough Melvin is twelve kilometres of water with four distinct fish populations occupying different depths and feeding zones. A ghillie who knows the drift lines and the local conditions will double your chances. Winging it from the shore will not.

×
Expecting the Lough Melvin Holiday Centre to be open

The centre closed its accommodation in 2019 and shut entirely in 2020. The building is being converted to a community resource complex. It is not taking bookings.

×
Driving through quickly en route to Donegal

The road west from Garrison through to Belleek along the lough shore is genuinely worth stopping on. If you are going to drive it, slow down. It is not a through-road that happens to pass a lake - it is a lake road.

+

Getting there.

By car

Enniskillen to Garrison is about 30km southwest on the A46 and B52 - roughly 35 minutes. From Sligo, come north through Manorhamilton and Kinlough; the lough appears on your right as you cross into Fermanagh.

By bus

Ulsterbus route 64 serves Garrison on Thursdays only, with two journeys toward Belleek and Belcoo and one toward Enniskillen. That is one day a week. A car is not optional for any other day.

By train

Nearest station is Enniskillen - which has no train service. The closest operational stations are Sligo (Republic) or Omagh/Portadown (Northern Ireland). All require onward driving.