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ASDEE
CO. KERRY · IE

Asdee
Eas Daoi

The Wild Atlantic Way
STOP 05 / 05
Eas Daoi · Co. Kerry

The village where, for six weeks in 1985, the statues moved.

Asdee is a small village in north Kerry on the N69, halfway between Ballylongford and Tarbert, with the Shannon estuary on one side and the road to Listowel on the other. Two hundred and fifty people, give or take. A square, a church, a national school, a GAA pitch named for Jack Walsh. The Irish name is Eas Daoi — the black waterfall — and the O'Connor Kings of Kerry had a castle here in the twelfth century before they moved up the road to Carrigafoyle. None of that is the reason anyone has heard of the place.

On the afternoon of 14 February 1985, two children inside the Church of St. Mary in Asdee said that the statue of the Sacred Heart and the statue of the Virgin Mary had moved. Within days the news was on RTÉ, then in the British papers, then international. Tens of thousands of people came in cars and coaches and parked along the N69 and queued up the church path to look at two statues in a small parish church. Television crews and journalists camped in the village for six weeks. Asdee became the first and most famous of the 1985 Irish moving-statues episodes — Ballinspittle in west Cork picked it up that summer and ran with it, and after that the country had reports from thirty other places. The Catholic Church was careful, never endorsing, never quite dismissing. The phenomenon faded by the autumn.

What that was, exactly, is still argued over. A pious country in a bad recession. The year after Pope John Paul II had filled Knock and the year of the Anne Lovett tragedy. Eyes adjusting in candlelight, one child seeing it, the rest seeing what the first child saw. The village itself, more than forty years on, is quiet about it. The church is still the parish church. The statues are still the statues. There is no plaque. There is no visitor centre. Have a respectful look if you are passing, then drive on to the ferry.

Population
~250 (electoral division 496)
Founded
Castle of the black waterfall, c. 1146
Coords
52.5519° N, 9.5600° W
01 / 05

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 05

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

Asdee, 14 February 1985

The moving statues

It was a Thursday afternoon. Two small girls — they were seven and nine — went into the Church of St. Mary in Asdee on their way home from school and came out saying that the statue of the Sacred Heart had beckoned them with its hand and that the eyes of the statue of the Virgin Mary had moved. Their parents brought them back. Other children and then adults said the same. By the weekend, the story was on the radio. By the following week, the cars were lining the N69 for a kilometre in either direction. Tens of thousands of people came over the next month and a half. Some saw something. Most did not. The parish priest let people in to look but did not himself claim a miracle. The Bishop of Kerry, Kevin McNamara, asked the faithful to be cautious. By Easter the crowds were thinning. By summer the story had moved on to Ballinspittle. The statues never moved again. They are still in the church.

The summer of '85

Ballinspittle and after

Asdee was the first; Ballinspittle in west Cork was the one that went global. From late July 1985, a roadside grotto on the way out of the village drew nightly crowds of up to ten thousand for a Marian statue people said was rocking and breathing. After Ballinspittle, reports came in from grottos and churches at thirty-odd other places that summer — Mitchelstown, Mount Melleray, Carns, Courtmacsherry. Two University College Cork psychologists later put it down to the optical illusion of staring at an unmoving figure in fading light, the rosary said in unison amplifying suggestion. The country was eight months on from the death of Ann Lovett in a Granard grotto, two and a half years on from the 1983 abortion referendum, deep in a recession with emigration high. The statues stopped moving when the conditions stopped. Asdee was the first crack in the dam.

Jack Walsh Park

North Kerry GAA

Asdee GAA was reformed in 1986 — a year after the moving statues, which is its own kind of village folklore — and the pitch is named for Jack Walsh, a North Kerry footballer of the 1930s. The club punches above its size. John Kennedy of Asdee won three senior All-Ireland football medals with Kerry in the 1980s. Paudie and Éamonn O'Donoghue, brothers from the parish, won two each. North Kerry plays its own county-style championship under the North Kerry Board, which is older than the GAA's official county structure and has never quite been folded into it. On a championship Sunday, the village is full of cars again, and nobody is looking at the church.

N69, Tarbert, Killimer

The road and the ferry

The N69 runs from Limerick down through Foynes and Glin and across the county line to Tarbert and Listowel and on to Tralee. Asdee sits on it, between Tarbert four kilometres to the north and Ballylongford four kilometres to the south. The road is the reason the village exists in the shape it does — a string of houses along a main road, a square set back, a church on the rise. Five kilometres up the road at Tarbert, the Shannon car ferry crosses to Killimer in Clare every half hour. The crossing has been running since 1969. It saves a hundred-and-thirty-kilometre drive round through Limerick and it puts Loop Head and the Cliffs of Moher inside an hour. Most strangers in Asdee are passing through. The village does not mind.

03 / 05

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar–May

The N69 is quiet. The church is open in daylight. The anniversary of the moving statues is mid-February and is unmarked, which is the right way around.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun–Aug

Long evenings, the GAA pitch in use most weekends, the ferry running busy. Pub hours steadier in summer than in winter.

◉ Go
Autumn
Sep–Oct

The estuary light in October is the reason for the drive. Storms blowing up the Shannon. Quiet roads either side of the village.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov–Feb

Half the village is at its own fireside by five. Ring ahead for anything. The ferry still runs.

◐ Mind yourself
04 / 05

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Treating the moving statues as a tourist attraction

There is no plaque, no museum, no tour. The church is the parish church and the statues are still in it. Have a quiet look if you are passing. Do not show up with a camera crew.

×
Asking around the village for the story

Asdee has lived with this for forty years and has heard every angle of it. Read the history before you come. The locals owe you no performance.

×
Putting Asdee on a day-trip itinerary by itself

It is a small village on a road. Combine it with Carrigafoyle at Ballylongford, the Tarbert ferry, and Loop Head over the water. That is a proper day.

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Getting there.

By car

On the N69 between Listowel (20 minutes south) and Tarbert (5 minutes north). Ballylongford is 4km south on the R551. Tralee is an hour. Limerick is an hour and a quarter via Foynes.

By bus

Local Link Kerry routes run the N69 between Listowel and Tarbert and stop in the village a few times a day. Sundays are thin. Check timetables.

By air

Kerry Airport (KIR) is 1h 20m. Shannon (SNN) is 1h 30m by road, or 30 minutes if you take the Tarbert ferry across.