County Kerry Ireland · Co. Kerry · Kilmoyley Save · Share
POSTED FROM
KILMOYLEY
CO. KERRY · IE

Kilmoyley
Cill Mhaoile

STOP 03 / 03
Cill Mhaoile · Co. Kerry

A 250-soul parish with 26 Kerry senior hurling titles. The most decorated club in the county.

Kilmoyley is a small North Kerry parish ten kilometres north of Tralee and six kilometres south-east of Ballyheigue, just off the R551 between Ardfert and Causeway. The village proper is a chapel, a national school, a pitch and a scatter of houses. Population is about 250 souls. Wikipedia describes the original settlement as "two or three dwellings and the local Roman Catholic church." That is still close to what is there. You drive through it without noticing unless you know to look.

What you should know is the hurling. Kerry is a football county — total, almost weather — but a thin corridor of parishes north of Tralee holds out for the small ball. Kilmoyley is the senior partner in that corridor. Twenty-six Kerry Senior Hurling Championships sit on the board, more than any other club in the county. Causeway, six kilometres up the road, is the great rival; Lixnaw and Ballyduff are the other neighbours. Most of the Kerry hurling finals of the last forty years have been some combination of those four. Causeway Comprehensive School, the secondary in the next parish, is the engine room — Kilmoyley children go there, the underage runs through it, and the senior club picks up the players at eighteen.

Beyond the GAA pitch and the chapel there is not much arranged for a visitor. No restaurant. No hotel. No marked walks. What there is, is the parish — dairy farms, hedgerows, a lough, big sky, the sound of a sliotar off ash on a Sunday afternoon in summer. If you have come this far, you have come for the hurling or because somebody told you to. Both are good reasons. Neither is on a brochure.

Population
~250 (parish)
Coords
52.3692° N, 9.7722° W
01 / 03

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 03

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

Kilmoyley GAA, founded 1880s

Twenty-six county titles

Kilmoyley GAA play in green and gold at Lerrig and have won the Kerry Senior Hurling Championship twenty-six times — more than any other club in the county. The titles run: 1890, 1892, 1894, 1895, 1900, 1901, 1905, 1907, 1910, 1914, 1948, 1962, 1963, 1964, 1970, 1971, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2008, 2009, 2015, 2016, 2020, 2021. They added the Munster Intermediate Club Hurling Championship in 2021 and were All-Ireland Intermediate runners-up the following year. Anthony Daly and John Meyler — both Munster hurling men of standing — have managed the club. None of which means anything in Killarney. All of which means everything here.

Kilmoyley, Causeway, Lixnaw, Ballyduff

The North Kerry hurling stronghold

Kerry has only one true hurling country and it is the corridor of parishes north of Tralee. Kilmoyley sits at its centre, with Causeway six kilometres north up the R551, Ballyduff and Lixnaw further on, and Crotta O'Neill's at Kilflynn to the east. These four or five clubs have shared most of the Kerry senior finals between them for decades. The rivalry with Causeway is the deepest — neighbouring parishes, neighbouring crests, generations of the same families on opposite teams. Causeway Comprehensive School in the next village takes children from Kilmoyley and the rest of the corridor; the underage hurling runs through it; the senior teams pick up where the school leaves off. A 250-person parish does not produce 26 county titles by accident. It produces them through a school, a pitch and a parish that have decided, against the football current, to keep the small ball in the air.

The church that anchors the parish

The Sacred Heart, 1873

The Church of the Sacred Heart at Kilmoyley was built in 1873 and is the centre of the parish in the literal sense — most of what counts as the village sits within sight of it. Before the church there were, by Wikipedia's account, two or three dwellings and not much else. The chapel made the place. Mass is still where the parish meets itself; the GAA pitch is where it meets its neighbours. Scoil Naomh Eirc, the national school, sits nearby and takes the children to twelve. After that they cross the parish boundary to Causeway Comprehensive, and the cycle that produces the hurlers begins.

How the milk became Kerry Group

Creamery country

Kilmoyley sits in the kind of flat North Kerry dairy ground that, for most of the twentieth century, fed a small co-operative creamery in every second parish. In 1972 a federation of eight farmer co-operatives in Kerry — the small creameries of the north of the county among them — combined with a US partner to form North Kerry Milk Products in Listowel. By 1986 it had floated as Kerry Group. The Listowel headquarters and the Tralee head office are both inside an hour of Kilmoyley; the cows in the fields around the parish still go to the same group, three corporate names later. The local creamery building is gone. The economic line that runs from a parish like this to a multinational headquartered up the road is not.

+

Getting there.

By car

Off the R551 in North Kerry, between Ardfert and Causeway. About 15 minutes from Tralee, 10 minutes from Ballyheigue, 5 minutes from Causeway.

By bus

No regular service into the village. Bus Éireann routes on the R551 run Tralee–Ballybunion and stop at Causeway and Ardfert; you walk or drive the last bit. Check the timetable the day before.

By train

No station. Tralee is the nearest railhead, then car for the last 15 minutes.