County Kerry Ireland · Co. Kerry · Tralee Save · Share
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TRALEE
CO. KERRY · IE

Tralee
Trá Lí

The Wild Atlantic Way
STOP 07 / 07
Trá Lí · Co. Kerry

County town of Kerry. The Rose, the windmill, the train that goes no further west.

Tralee is the county town of Kerry, which means it is the working town the rest of the county comes into for things like banks and the courthouse and the GAA. It is not the postcard. The postcard is Dingle, an hour west, or Killarney, half an hour south. Tralee is the place that holds them up.

What it has of its own is real. The Rose festival every August, which is bigger and odder and more loved than any outsider expects. Siamsa Tíre, the national folk theatre, in a low building off the Town Park. Blennerville Windmill on the western edge, where the famine ships left from a canal that no longer reaches the sea. Austin Stack Park, where Kerry footballers learn what a green and gold jersey weighs. And the train, which terminates here — west of Tralee you are on a bus or a bicycle or a long road.

Stay a night on the way to Dingle. Walk the Wetlands at first light. Eat a proper dinner in town. Then keep going.

Population
26,079
Walk score
Town centre in twenty minutes, end to end
Founded
Anglo-Norman, 13th century
Coords
52.2680° N, 9.6961° W
01 / 07

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 07

The pubs.

None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:

Stoker's

Locals, music
Town pub on Castle Street

Named for Bram Stoker's mother, who came from Ballyseedy outside town. Music most weekends. The kind of pub where the bar staff remember your second pint.

Bailey's Corner

GAA crowd, sport
Corner pub & food

Junction of Ashe Street and Castle Street. The Kerry match goes on the big screen and the room becomes one room. Decent pub food the rest of the week.

Roundy's

Quiet pint
Traditional bar

Broguemakers Lane, off the main drag. Small, low-ceilinged, no nonsense. A pint and a paper kind of place; trad sessions when they happen, happen here.

The Brogue Inn

Late, lively
Pub & live music

Rock Street. Live music several nights a week — trad, ballads, the odd cover band. Beer garden out the back for the two days a year it works.

03 / 07

Where to eat.

PlaceTypeLocal note
Roast House Bistro €€ Denny Street. Local meat, blackboard menu, wine list that does not pretend. The room everyone in Tralee recommends to a visitor and they are not wrong.
Spa Seafoods Seafood, out at the Spa €€ Five minutes drive west toward Fenit. Right on Tralee Bay. Lobster from the boat below, chowder, a window the weather does the work for.
Cassidys Restaurant €€ On The Mall. Steaks, fish, a Sunday lunch the locals book a week ahead. Old-fashioned in the way that means it works.
Quinlan's Fish Chipper & fishmonger Bridge Street. The Quinlan family run boats out of Dingle and chippers across the county. Fresh haddock, proper chips, eat them by the river.
04 / 07

Where to sleep.

PlaceTypeLocal note
The Rose Hotel Hotel Dan Spring Road, a few minutes walk from town. The Rose festival HQ in August; a quiet four-star the rest of the year. Pool, decent breakfast.
Ballygarry Estate Country house hotel Five minutes east on the Killarney road. Family-run, gardens, a spa that has earned its reputation. The going-rate splurge in the area.
Ballyseedy Castle Hotel Castle hotel A castle hotel in the proper sense — fifteenth-century keep, twenty-acre grounds, three kilometres out of town. Wedding venue most weekends; book around it.
05 / 07

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

A ballad, then a festival

The Rose

The Rose of Tralee began as a nineteenth-century ballad — William Pembroke Mulchinock, local merchant's son, in love with Mary O'Connor, a maid in his family's house. Different class, no future, and she died of tuberculosis before he came home from India. The song outlived them both. In 1959 a group of local businessmen turned it into a festival. Every August since, Roses from the Irish diaspora arrive in town for a week of interviews on a televised stage. It is sentimental and it is genuine and the town goes properly mad for it.

Ireland's national folk theatre

Siamsa Tíre

Siamsa began in the 1960s as a parish drama project in the village of Finuge, west of Tralee. Father Pat Ahern wanted to put the rhythms of farm work — threshing, churning, footing turf — on stage with music and dance. It worked. By 1991 it had a purpose-built theatre in Tralee Town Park and the title of national folk theatre. The summer season runs Tuesday to Saturday and the cast is half local, half graduates of the company's own training programme.

The windmill and the famine ships

Blennerville

Blennerville Windmill went up in 1800 — twenty-one metres of stone, built by Sir Rowland Blennerhassett to grind corn for export. The Tralee Ship Canal opened in 1846 and ran straight past the mill to the bay. In the years that followed, tens of thousands of people boarded coffin ships from this stretch of water and sailed for Boston, Quebec, New York. The Jeanie Johnston, replicated and now docked in Dublin, was one of them — six years of famine voyages and not a passenger lost. The mill was derelict by the 1970s; it was restored in 1990 and grinds wheat again.

06 / 07

Tours, if you want one.

The ones below are bookable through our partners — pick one that suits, or skip the lot and just turn up.

We earn a small commission when you book through our tour pages. It costs you nothing extra and keeps the village hubs free. All Co. Kerry tours →

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Getting there.

By car

Killarney to Tralee is 30 minutes on the N22. Limerick is 1h 45m. Cork is 2 hours.

By bus

Bus Éireann runs frequent services from Killarney, Limerick, Cork and Dublin. The bus station shares the building with the train.

By train

Direct trains from Mallow, Cork and Dublin Heuston via Mallow. Tralee is the western terminus of the Irish rail network — west of here is bus or car.

By air

Kerry Airport (KIR) at Farranfore is fifteen minutes south. Cork is 1h 45m. Shannon is 2 hours.