County Kerry Ireland · Co. Kerry · Moyvane Save · Share
POSTED FROM
MOYVANE
CO. KERRY · IE

Moyvane
Maigh Mheáin

STOP 06 / 06
Maigh Mheáin · Co. Kerry

The village voted out its landlord's name in 1939 and gave itself an Irish one instead.

Moyvane sits on the N69 between Listowel and the Shannon ferry at Tarbert — seven miles from one, five from the other, and a Sunday drive from anywhere else. It is a small, planned village: a wide main street, a church, a hall, a pub, fields running away in every direction. About 250 people. Most travellers go past it without slowing down. The ones who stop are usually here for one of three reasons.

The first is the name. Until 1939 this was Newtownsandes, after George Sandes — a Land War landlord remembered locally as the agent of evictions, not as a benefactor. The parish priest, Father O'Sullivan, organised a plebiscite. The villagers picked Maigh Mheáin, "the middle plain," from a townland a mile or two southwest. It was one of the first acts of its kind in the new state, and it stuck — even if the postal address took years to follow.

The second is Maurice Walsh, who was born in Ballydonoghue, the next townland over, in 1879. He spent most of his working life as a Customs and Excise officer in the Scottish Highlands, watching the Speyside whisky distilleries. The short story he wrote in 1933, drawn from a fight he remembered at Listowel fair, became John Ford's The Quiet Man with John Wayne and Maureen O'Hara. Walsh died in 1964; de Valera was at the funeral. The third reason is football — and if you stop into the pub on a Sunday in October, you'll find the third reason explains itself.

Population
~250
01 / 06

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 06

The pubs.

None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:

Brosnan's Bar

Local, GAA, no nonsense
Village pub on the cross

The pub on the cross at the centre of the village. Run by the Brosnans. The Boro talked over here on a Sunday evening in autumn, and a quiet pint the rest of the week. If you only call into one place in Moyvane, it's this one.

03 / 06

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

How a village got rid of a landlord

The plebiscite of 1939

Newtownsandes was named after George Sandes, who held the lands here through the Land War of the 1880s and was remembered, in the local phrase, as a notorious landlord. There had been earlier attempts to shake the name — a brief flirtation with Newtowndillon after John Dillon in 1886, and a 1916 push to call it Newtownclarke after the Easter Rising leader Thomas Clarke. Neither held. In 1939 the parish priest, Father O'Sullivan, ran a proper plebiscite. The villagers chose Maigh Mheáin — the middle plain — over a Gaelicised version of Sandes. Among the first such votes in the new state. Letters addressed Newtownsandes still arrived for years.

A Listowel fair, a Hollywood film

Maurice Walsh and The Quiet Man

Maurice Walsh was born in Ballydonoghue, two miles from Moyvane, on 2 May 1879. He took the civil service exam, joined Customs and Excise, and was posted to the Scottish Highlands, where he spent decades minding whisky distilleries on Speyside. His debut novel The Key Above the Door (1926) sold a quarter of a million copies. The short story "The Quiet Man" appeared in his 1935 collection Green Rushes — drawn, he said, from a bullying incident at Listowel fair and a fight involving a Kerryman called Quiet Jack. John Ford bought the film rights for ten dollars in the 1930s and made the 1952 picture for a great deal more. Walsh retired to Dublin and died in 1964; the President of Ireland came to the Mass.

Eighteen titles and the first one

The Boro

Moyvane GAA — locally the Boro — won the inaugural North Kerry Senior Football Championship in 1925, playing as Newtownsandes. They beat Faha. They went on to take 18 of them, more than any other club in the division: four in a row from 1936 to 1939, three in the early 1960s, the last one in 2003 against Castleisland Desmonds. A run through the slumps and the booms. The pitch is half a mile from the cross. On a championship Sunday the cars line both sides of the road and the pub afterwards is the parish meeting.

What's in the name

The middle plain

Maigh Mheáin means "the middle plain." The townland it refers to lies a mile or two southwest of the village proper — flat north Kerry farmland between the hills of the Stack's Mountains and the estuary at Tarbert. The choice was deliberate: a name from the land itself, older than any landlord. The Christian Brothers ran a school here for generations. The Sacred Heart church sits on the main street. The Marian Hall does the drama, the bingo and the funeral teas. None of it announces itself. That is the point.

04 / 06

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar–May

Quiet roads, lambs in the fields, the church bells carrying. Listowel Writers' Week starts at the end of May, ten minutes down the road.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun–Aug

Long evenings, hay being cut, GAA championship building. Listowel races are in September but the town fills up earlier.

◉ Go
Autumn
Sep–Oct

County championship Sundays. The Boro on the pitch and the pub busy after. The best time to feel what the place is for.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov–Feb

Short days, wet roads, not much open beyond the pub. Fine if you're passing through to the Tarbert ferry.

◐ Mind yourself
05 / 06

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Looking for a restaurant in the village

There isn't one. Moyvane has a pub and a shop. Eat in Listowel — Allo's, John B. Keane's kitchen, the chipper on Church Street — or up the road at Tarbert.

×
Expecting a Quiet Man trail

The film was shot in Cong, Co. Mayo, not here. Walsh was born nearby; the story came from a Listowel fair. There is no thatched cottage with a sign on it. Keep moving.

×
Calling the village Newtownsandes

It hasn't been Newtownsandes since 1939. The locals voted it out. The Post Office eventually noticed. So should the satnav.

+

Getting there.

By car

On the N69 between Listowel (12 km / 15 min south) and Tarbert (8 km / 10 min north). The Shannon ferry to Killimer in Co. Clare leaves from Tarbert hourly — the fastest way out of Kerry going north. Ballylongford is a five-minute side road east.

By bus

Local Link Kerry route 274 (Listowel–Tarbert) stops in the village a few times a day. Bus Éireann from Tralee to Limerick goes through Listowel and Tarbert but skips Moyvane.