County Kildare Ireland · Co. Kildare · Allenwood Save · Share
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ALLENWOOD
CO. KILDARE · IE

Allenwood
Fiodh Alúine

The Ireland's Ancient East
STOP 08 / 08
Fiodh Alúine · Co. Kildare

A bog village built on turf, a power station, and a hill full of Fionn.

Allenwood is a Bord na Móna village. The cooling tower of the peat-fired power station was visible from thirty kilometres away for forty-two years, and when they pulled it down in 1997 the horizon went quiet. The plant burned local turf from 1952 to 1994. The men who cut that turf lived in a workers' camp at Allenwood Cross. Their grandchildren live here now and the camp is gone, but the village they built — two schools, a church, a GAA club, a soccer club, a pub at the crossroads — is the village you walk into.

What's left of the industry is the bog itself. Bord na Móna formally ended all peat harvesting in March 2021, after a partial harvest in 2019 and nothing at all in 2020. The plan now is rehabilitation — rewetting, restoring, putting the bog back. €115 million was budgeted. It will take decades. If you stand at the canal bridge on a still evening you can hear what a working peat bog sounds like when it stops working: birds, water, very little else.

And then there's the Hill. Almu, in the old Irish — the dún of Fionn mac Cumhaill, where the Fianna trained on the flat country below. When Sir Gerard Aylmer's labourers built the folly tower on the summit in the 1860s they dug up human bones. They reburied them. They believed the bones were Fionn's. Roadstone owns most of the hill now and the western face has been quarried away, but the eastern side still holds the tower, the view, and the story.

Population
1,685 (2022)
Walk score
Crossroads village — five minutes end to end
Founded
Coaching stop on the Edenderry Road, 19th c.
Coords
53.2839° N, 6.8608° W
01 / 08

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 08

The pubs.

None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:

Glennons of Allenwood

Family-run, refurbished
Pub & restaurant, est. 2000

The pub at the heart of the village. The Glennon family have run it since the millennium, and a full refurbishment a few years back gave it a proper restaurant side as well. It's the village's main room — meals, locals at the bar, weekend trade in from the surrounding townlands.

03 / 08

Where to eat.

PlaceTypeLocal note
Glennons of Allenwood Bar & restaurant €€ Carvery, mains, the kind of menu that does a Sunday roast properly. The dining room is the part most worth booking ahead for.
Sanita's Takeaway Chipper Allenwood Cross. Burgers, chicken, fish and chips. The local late-night option after a day on the bog or the canal.
JAL Indian & Asian Indian takeaway €€ Properly-spiced curries delivered out as far as the surrounding villages. A fixture of local Friday nights.
Apache Pizza Pizza Allenwood Cross, W91 RHC5. Apache is Apache — you know what you are getting. Useful if you have hungry kids and a long drive home.
04 / 08

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

Forty-two years of turf-fired power

The cooling tower

The ESB's Allenwood Generating Station opened in 1952 and ran on milled peat cut by Bord na Móna from the bogs around the village. At its tallest the cooling tower could be seen from over thirty kilometres away — a marker on the flat midlands sky. The plant closed in 1994 and the tower was demolished in 1997. The site is an industrial park now. People who grew up here still describe directions in relation to where the tower used to be.

Almu, the seat of the Fianna

Fionn and the Hill

The Hill of Allen — Almu in Irish — was, in the legends, the dún of Fionn mac Cumhaill, leader of the Fianna. The flat bogland around it was their training ground. In 722 AD a real battle was fought near the hill, the Battle of Allen, between the Leinstermen and the High King's army. In the 1860s Sir Gerard Aylmer built a folly tower on the summit and his workers found human bones during the dig. They believed the bones were Fionn's and reburied them. Whether you take that seriously or not is entirely up to you.

Bord na Móna stops, 2021

The end of the cut

Bord na Móna's last full peat harvest on these bogs was in 2018. A partial harvest in 2019. Nothing in 2020. In March 2021 the company formally announced the end of all peat harvesting on its lands and pivoted to rehabilitation — rewetting the cutover bogs, restoring the carbon sink, employing the same workers to undo what their fathers were paid to do. €115 million was committed. It is the largest land-use change in modern Irish history and Allenwood is at the centre of it.

Still water through a flat country

The Grand Canal

The Grand Canal was cut through here in the late 1700s and reached its peak as a freight route before the railways killed it. The Robertstown branch carried turf, grain and Guinness barrels east to Dublin. Shee Bridge in Allenwood is one of the small humpback canal bridges you can still walk over. The towpath is a flat, quiet walk in either direction — west into open bog, east toward Robertstown harbour, where the old canal hotel still stands.

05 / 08

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

Grand Canal — Allenwood to Robertstown Flat towpath, dead straight, big sky. Walk it east from Shee Bridge and you arrive at Robertstown harbour with its 18th-century canal hotel still on the quay. Then turn around or get a lift back.
6 km one waydistance
1h 30mtime
Hill of Allen Park near the old graveyard at Allen village, follow the lane up. The folly tower at the top is locked but the view across the bog is what you came for. Avoid the western side — it is an active quarry and not a footpath.
Short steep climbdistance
40 min up and downtime
Lullymore Biodiversity Trail Twenty minutes north-west, around the Bog of Allen Nature Centre. Boardwalks across rewetted bog, two nature reserves, and a clearer view of what the rehabilitation actually looks like in practice.
5 km loopdistance
2 hourstime
06 / 08

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar–May

The bog comes back to itself. Bog cotton on the cutaway, hares in the long grass, the canal usable again after winter mud.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun–Aug

Long evenings on the towpath. The Hill of Allen is at its driest. Midges at dusk — bring something.

◉ Go
Autumn
Sep–Oct

Quiet. Big skies, low light, the bog turns the colour it was meant to be. The locals' season.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov–Feb

Flat midlands cold, fog that sits all day, the towpath turns to mud. The pub is the move.

◐ Mind yourself
07 / 08

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Looking for a hotel in the village

There isn't one. Stay in Naas, Newbridge or a B&B out the road, and come into Allenwood for the bog and the pub.

×
Climbing the western face of the Hill of Allen

It's an active Roadstone quarry under a 50-year extraction agreement. The eastern approach from the village of Allen is the one.

×
Expecting peat being cut

Bord na Móna stopped harvesting in 2020 and made it formal in 2021. What you see now is rewetting and rehabilitation, not industry.

×
Driving past without stopping

Most people on the R403 are heading for Edenderry or back to the M7. They miss the canal bridge, the bog, and the only pub for miles. Don't be most people.

+

Getting there.

By car

Dublin to Allenwood is about 50 minutes via the M4 to Enfield then south on the R402, or via the M7 to Naas then north on the R403. The village sits at the Allenwood Cross junction.

By bus

Bus Éireann route 120 (Dublin–Edenderry) stops at Allenwood Cross. Hourly-ish on weekdays, less at weekends. Check the timetable — rural service.

By train

No station. Sallins/Naas (15 minutes south by car) is the nearest commuter rail.

By air

Dublin Airport is 65 km, about an hour by car via the M4.