County Kildare Ireland · Co. Kildare · Athgarvan Save · Share
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ATHGARVAN
CO. KILDARE · IE

Athgarvan
Áth Garbháin

The Ireland's Ancient East
STOP 08 / 08
Áth Garbháin · Co. Kildare

A bridge, a pub, a GAA pitch, and the Curragh out the back door.

Athgarvan is the kind of village you drive through on the way to somewhere else and don't notice. Which is a pity, because the bridge you cross is older than the United States, the plain on your left has been training racehorses since 1727, and the camp on the hill behind it housed the British cavalry for seventy years before housing the Irish army for a hundred more. There's more history in two square miles here than in most counties.

The village proper is small. The R416 comes down from Newbridge, crosses the Liffey on five stone arches, and runs on toward Kilcullen. The pub sits near the bridge. The GAA pitch is over the river. The school — Scoil Bhríde — is on the road south. The new estates (Liffey Mill, Old Mill Race, Eyrefield Lawns) added a thousand people to the village in twenty years and changed it from a crossroads into a commuter village, but it still has the bones of the place that was here before.

Don't come for a day out — Athgarvan isn't a day out. Come because you're staying in Newbridge or going to the races at the Curragh and you want a quiet pint by a river instead of in a town. Come because you want to see one of the prettier stone bridges in Kildare with no one else looking at it. Come because the gallops at five in the morning are one of the things this country still does properly.

Population
~1,200
Pubs
1and counting
Walk score
Bridge to crossroads in five minutes
Founded
Five-arch bridge over the Liffey, 1784
Coords
53.1531° N, 6.7781° W
01 / 08

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 08

The pubs.

None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:

The Athgarvan Inn

The village local
Pub, restaurant & function room

The only pub in the village and they know it — but it's a good pub anyway. Gastropub food (fish and chips, curry, a Sunday roast people drive out from Newbridge for), live music some weekends, a function room that does the local weddings and the GAA dinners. Book Sunday lunch ahead.

03 / 08

Where to eat.

PlaceTypeLocal note
The Athgarvan Inn kitchen Pub food €€ The pub does the food. It's the food in the village. Fresh, properly cooked, more ambitious than it needs to be. The Sunday roast is the headline. Open till nine most nights, later on weekends.
04 / 08

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

The name

Garvan's ford

Áth Garbháin means "Garvan's ford" — the rough crossing where someone called Garvan got his cattle over the Liffey, probably a thousand years before anyone wrote it down. The ford did the job until 1784, when somebody put up the five-arch limestone bridge that now carries the R416. The bridge replaced the ford. The name kept the ford.

5,000 acres of unfenced grass

The Curragh

The Curragh starts at the western edge of the village and runs for five thousand acres without a fence. Sheep wander across the road. Racehorses gallop on the lower flats at dawn. The first recorded race here was in 1727; the Irish Derby has run every June since 1866. If you want to see the gallops, get to a layby off the R413 before six in the morning. Bring a flask. Don't get out of the car.

A military town next door

The Camp

Two kilometres west of the village sits the Curragh Camp — built by the British in 1855 to garrison Ireland, taken over by the Irish Defence Forces in 1922, and still the country's main military training base. Athgarvan has fed and watered soldiers for nearly two centuries. The pub did. The shops did. The girls in the village married into the regiments and out of the country. That history doesn't shout, but it's there.

Racing aristocracy

Athgarvan Lodge and the Bowes Dalys

Athgarvan Lodge, just outside the village, was the seat of Denis Bowes Daly — Senior Steward of the Turf Club, owner-breeder, and one of the figures who made Kildare the centre of Irish bloodstock. The Lodge is private and unmarked from the road. The horses bred there ran at the Curragh, which you can see from the front lawn. Some of them won.

05 / 08

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

The bridge and the river path Out from the pub, over the five-arch bridge, and along the south bank of the Liffey toward the weir. The proposed Liffey Linear Park extension will eventually link this to Newbridge, but you can already walk most of it. Quiet, mossy, herons.
2 km returndistance
30 mintime
The Curragh plain Drive five minutes west to the Curragh and walk anywhere. There are no paths because there are no fences — the whole 5,000 acres is open commonage. Watch for the gallops (the railed sand tracks) and stay off them. Stay clear of any horses you see. The sheep don't care.
As far as you likedistance
1–3 hourstime
The Curragh racecourse perimeter A loop around the outside of the racecourse on quiet roads. Best on a non-race day when the place is empty and you can see the stands rising out of the grass like something forgotten.
4 kmdistance
1 hourtime
06 / 08

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar–May

The Curragh greens up. Foals on the gallops. The river path dries out. Quiet weekdays.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun–Aug

Irish Derby weekend (late June) brings traffic, full pubs, no parking near the bridge. Either come for it or come the other 51 weekends.

◐ Mind yourself
Autumn
Sep–Oct

Big skies over the plain, the racecourse still busy, the pub fire on. The best season in Kildare.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov–Feb

The Curragh in fog is a different country. The pub is the only show in town. That can be enough.

◐ Mind yourself
07 / 08

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Treating Athgarvan as a destination on its own

It isn't one. Stay in Newbridge or Kilcullen and visit Athgarvan for an hour and a pint. The village is the size of an hour.

×
Walking on the Curragh gallops

The sand tracks are working ground for racehorses worth more than your car. The trainers will tell you. The Garda will agree with them.

×
Parking on the bridge to take a photo

It is a working road bridge with no footpath either side. Park at the pub, walk back. Everyone does it. Nobody gets clipped.

×
Looking for nightlife

There is one pub. After it closes, the village is asleep. Newbridge is four kilometres if you want options.

+

Getting there.

By car

Dublin to Athgarvan is 50 minutes on the M7 (exit 12 for Newbridge, then R416 south). Newbridge is 4 km north, Kilcullen 2.5 km south. The bridge is signposted from both directions.

By bus

Bus Éireann routes via Newbridge run frequently from Dublin's Busáras (route 126 / 115). From Newbridge, local services or a 10-minute taxi to Athgarvan.

By train

Newbridge train station is on the Dublin–Cork line — half-hourly to Heuston, journey time 35 minutes. From the station, taxi or 5 km walk along the river path.

By air

Dublin Airport is 65 km, about an hour by road via the M50 and M7.