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COILL DUBH
CO. KILDARE · IE

Coill Dubh
Coill Dubh

The Ireland's Ancient East
STOP 07 / 07
Coill Dubh · Co. Kildare

Built by a state company to house turf-cutters. Still figuring out what comes next.

Coill Dubh was not there and then it was. In 1952, Bord na Móna built 160 houses on the Blackwood townland and moved workers' families in from the temporary camps at Killinthomas, Mucklon and Timahoe. The workers were cutting peat for the Allenwood power station — a peat-fired ESB generator that ran from 1952 to 1994 and put electricity into the midlands grid. The village existed to make that work possible. That was the entire plan.

It is an unusual thing in Ireland — a 20th-century company village, built to spec, with a purpose from day one. Most Irish villages accumulated over centuries, church then pub then crossroads then houses. Coill Dubh came the other way: the grid came first, and the community grew into it. Seven decades on, the community is the point. The GAA club has won eleven Kildare Senior Hurling Championships. The soccer club runs eleven teams. There is a residents' association, a scout group, a camogie club. None of that was in Bord na Móna's original blueprint.

The peat industry is over. Bord na Móna handed the housing stock to Kildare County Council in 2017 and formally ended all harvesting in March 2021 — the same workers who spent their careers cutting the bog now employed to rewet and restore it. What that means for a village whose identity was built on peat is still becoming clear. The population jumped from 746 in 2016 to 1,476 in 2022 — Dublin commuters, priced out of the city, arriving in their hundreds. Kildare County Council published a Village Renewal Masterplan for Coill Dubh and neighbouring Cooleragh in 2024. The village is not in decline. It is in transition, which is a different and more interesting thing.

Population
1,476 (2022)
Pubs
1and counting
Walk score
Grid village — ten minutes end to end
Founded
1952, Bord na Móna planned village
Coords
53°17′32″N, 6°49′03″W
01 / 07

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 07

The pubs.

None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:

The local pub

Community local
Village pub

Coill Dubh has a pub — the village amenity list confirms it. A specific trading name has not been verified at time of writing. If you're going, ask in the village or check Google Maps for the current name and hours before you travel.

03 / 07

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

1952 — built from nothing

The company village

There was no Coill Dubh before Bord na Móna decided there should be one. The townland was called Blackwood — Coill Dubh in Irish, a reference to the ancient forest that once covered this part of Kildare before the bog took over. In 1952, BnM broke ground on 160 houses and several shops, replacing the temporary worker camps that had housed peat-cutters at three separate sites. They were building a village the way you'd build a factory — to specification, with a delivery date. Workers moved in with their families. The children went to the new school. The GAA club was founded in 1957, five years after the houses went up. In the life of an Irish village, that is rapid.

When one company runs the town

Bord na Móna as landlord

For the first six decades of Coill Dubh's life, Bord na Móna was the employer, the landlord and — in a practical sense — the reason the place existed. The houses were BnM houses. The workers were BnM workers. The whole village was downstream of one state company's decision-making in Dublin. That changed in 2017, when BnM transferred the housing stock to Kildare County Council — a shift from company town to ordinary village, on paper at least. The residents had been making that transition in practice for years.

2020–2021 — the harvest stops

The end of peat

Bord na Móna's last full peat harvest on the midlands bogs was 2018. A partial one in 2019. Then 2020 came — court rulings, planning refusals, climate pressure — and the machines stopped. In March 2021, BnM made it formal: all peat harvesting was over, permanently. The pivot was to rehabilitation. Workers who had spent their careers cutting bog would now be paid to restore it — rewetting the cutaway, letting the sphagnum moss return, putting the carbon sink back. The Allenwood power station had already been closed since 1994. The cooling tower came down in 1997. The end of harvesting in 2020 was the last chapter of the industry that founded the village, not its end.

The population doubles

What comes after turf

The strange thing about Coill Dubh in the post-peat era is that it is growing. Not declining, not hollowing out — growing. 746 people in 2016. 1,476 in 2022. Dublin is 40 kilometres away and the M4 and M7 motorways are accessible. The commuter tide reached this far and the village absorbed it. Young families arrived who have no connection to peat, no family memory of Bord na Móna, no particular feeling about the bog one way or another. They are building new traditions in the grid of streets a state company laid down in 1952. The hurling club keeps winning championships. Kildare County Council produced a renewal masterplan in 2024. The village is not the same village it was — but it is still there, which was not guaranteed.

04 / 07

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

Lullymore Heritage & Discovery Park Twenty minutes north-west between Rathangan and Allenwood. Sixty acres on a mineral island in the Bog of Allen. The Peatland Biodiversity Trail — first of its kind in Ireland — takes you across boardwalks above rewetted bog. The best place anywhere near Coill Dubh to understand what a raised bog actually is and what rehabilitation looks like on the ground. Open March to October, 10am to 6pm.
5 km loop trailsdistance
2–3 hourstime
Grand Canal towpath — Allenwood direction Drive or walk three kilometres south-west to Allenwood Cross, where the Grand Canal crosses the R403 at Shee Bridge. The towpath runs west into open bog — flat, quiet, big sky. East takes you toward Robertstown harbour. Either direction is good. Neither requires planning beyond a pair of boots.
Open-endeddistance
However long you havetime
Bog of Allen Nature Centre, Lullymore The Irish Peatland Conservation Council runs this centre on the bog between Coill Dubh and Rathangan. Two nature reserves, a bog garden, and exhibits on the ecology and history of Irish peatlands. Free entry to the outdoor trails. If you want to understand why the village was built where it was, start here.
Short loopdistance
1 hourtime
05 / 07

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar–May

Bog cotton appears on the cutaway. Lullymore opens for the season. The flat midlands light is at its most particular — long, low, greenish.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun–Aug

Lullymore is fully open. The GAA season is in full swing — if the hurlers are at home, go. Long evenings on the bog are worth the drive out.

◉ Go
Autumn
Sep–Oct

The bog turns. Low light, wide sky, the rehabilitated sections showing signs of what they were. Lullymore open until end of October.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov–Feb

Flat midlands cold and bog fog. Lullymore closes. The village turns inward. If you come, come for the strangeness of a planned village in November, not for the walks.

◐ Mind yourself
06 / 07

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Looking for a hotel or guesthouse in the village

There is none. Stay in Naas, Newbridge or Edenderry and drive the twenty to thirty minutes. The village was built for workers, not tourists.

×
Expecting to see peat being harvested

Bord na Móna ended all harvesting in 2020. What you see on the bogs now is rehabilitation work — rewetting, restoration. The industry is over.

×
Treating the village as a drive-through on the way to somewhere else

The R403 between Naas and Edenderry passes through the village. Most people keep going. The 1952 grid plan, the GAA park, the bog on the doorstep — these take twenty minutes to appreciate and most people never stop.

×
Comparing it to a heritage village

Coill Dubh is not Adare. It does not have thatched cottages or medieval stonework. Its heritage is mid-20th-century planned housing and a peat industry. That is less photogenic and more interesting.

+

Getting there.

By car

Dublin to Coill Dubh is 50 minutes via the M4 to Enfield then south, or M7 to Naas then north on the R403. The village sits at the junction of the R403 and R408 — you can't miss the turn if you know which crossroads you're heading for.

By bus

Local Link Kildare runs services connecting Coill Dubh to Clane (hourly, 15 minutes) and Naas (every four hours, 23 minutes). Bus Éireann route 120 covers the Naas–Edenderry corridor. Rural service — check timetables before you travel.

By train

No station. Sallins/Naas is the nearest commuter rail stop, about 20 minutes south by car.

By air

Dublin Airport is 65 km. Allow an hour by road via the M4.