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COONAGH
CO. LIMERICK · IE

Coonagh
Cuanach, Co. Limerick

The Wild Atlantic Way
STOP 07 / 07
Cuanach · Co. Limerick

A Shannon-side fishing village swallowed by Limerick city, that still races its own boats and remembers its dead.

Coonagh is the kind of place that hides in plain sight. Drive the N18 west out of Limerick toward Shannon and Ennis and you pass it without knowing - a roundabout, a shopping centre, the mouth of the Limerick Tunnel, and the flat green marsh running down to the river. What you are passing is one of the oldest working communities on this stretch of the Shannon, a townland pair (Coonagh West, the village, and Coonagh East, the lower ground) that fished, cut reed and made brick here for centuries before the city arrived.

The name says it plainly. Cuanach means a winding, hollow-filled estuary, and that is what you are standing on - alluvial flats where the Shannon spreads out and the tide works in and out. The men fished salmon with drift nets from gandelows, the long narrow flat-bottomed boats built for these shallows. The women and children cut and bundled reed for thatch. And from the clay under the fields they made the soft red brick that went up the river to build the Georgian face of Limerick. It is honest, water-shaped work, and the village still carries the memory of all three trades.

Do not come to Coonagh for a day out in the conventional sense. There is no heritage centre, no marked trail, no postcard pub waiting to pour you a creamy pint. What there is, if you take the time, is the river itself, a clutch of fishing cabins and moored gandelows near the tunnel, a community that still races those boats every summer, and a war memory most cities would envy a monument for. Come as someone who likes the edges of things - the working margin where a city meets its river.

Population
~277 (2016 census)
Founded
River fishing settlement; brick-making documented from the 18th century
Coords
52.6670° N, 8.6889° W
01 / 07

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 07

The pubs.

None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:

No tourist pub in the village

Drink in the city or Caherdavin
Honest note

Coonagh has no destination pub to send you to, and we will not invent one. For a proper pint you are five to ten minutes away: the bars of Caherdavin on the way into town, or the city centre itself - Dolan's on the dock road being the obvious Limerick night out for trad and live music. Coonagh is a place you live, not a place you crawl.

03 / 07

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

Drift-net salmon and a winding boat

The gandelow men

Coonagh's defining trade was salmon fishing in the Shannon estuary, worked from the gandelow - a long, narrow, flat-bottomed open boat built to slide over these shallow tidal flats and handle a drift net in a current. The racing of gandelows here is a tradition recorded as far back as 1864, and it has not died: Coonagh crews still race during Limerick's Riverfest, and in 2008 a Coonagh crew took the village's greatest rowing victory, winning the International Great River Race on the Thames in London. Moored gandelows and old fishing cabins still sit near the river by the tunnel - the living end of a working culture, not a re-enactment.

Coonagh brick, fired in clamps by the river

The town that built the town

The soft red brick in Limerick's Georgian streets - the terraces of Newtown Pery and the quay houses - was hand-made in Coonagh. Clay was dug from the fields (the pits are still called the Brick Holes), shaped by hand, stacked in temporary clamps and fired with whatever fuel was to hand, often leaving the imprint of straw on the finished brick. It was floated up the Shannon to the city docks. By the 1901 census only a single brickmaker was still listed across Coonagh East and West, and by the 1930s the trade had stopped entirely. The houses it built are still standing in town.

HMS Goliath, Gallipoli, 13 May 1915

Coonagh's war

Because they were boatmen, Coonagh's fishermen enlisted for naval service in the First World War in unusual numbers, and the village is said to have suffered one of the highest per-capita death tolls in the country. On 13 May 1915 the battleship HMS Goliath was torpedoed off Gallipoli; the dead included a cluster of Coonagh men - among them Thomas Davis and John Davis, Patrick and Maurice Cronin, Thomas Grimes and Michael Hickey. More were lost on minesweepers and drifters later in the war. For a village this size it is a staggering loss, and one that the place has not forgotten.

The floods of October 1961

The night it became an island

Coonagh has always lived with the river, but in October 1961 the river won. Floodwater rose across almost the entire low-lying townland, reaching several metres in places and cutting the village off as an island for a time. It is the kind of event that fixes itself in local memory and explains why so much of the older settlement clusters on the slightly higher ground of Coonagh West. The Shannon here is beautiful and it is not to be trusted.

04 / 07

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

The riverbank and the fishing cabins The reason to come on foot. Walk down toward the Shannon near the tunnel to find the moored gandelows and the old fishing cabins - the working edge of the village. Flat, exposed, big estuary light, Clare on the far bank. Not signposted as a tourist walk because it is not one; it is simply where the village meets its river. Boots in winter - this is reclaimed marsh and it floods.
2-3 km returndistance
40 mintime
Coonagh West village loop Wander the higher ground of the old village (Faha and the lower town). Houses, the soccer grounds on Coonagh Road, the shape of a settlement that grew on the dry land above the marsh. Quiet, ordinary, and the only way to understand why the village sits exactly where it does.
As long as you make itdistance
30-45 mintime
05 / 07

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar-May

The marsh greens up, the estuary light is at its clearest, and the riverbank is dry enough to walk. The best window before the summer haze.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun-Aug

Long evenings on the water and the time to catch gandelows out if there is racing on. Limerick's Riverfest (usually around the bank holiday) is when the boats come into their own.

◉ Go
Autumn
Sep-Oct

Low autumn sun across the flats is the photograph. Quiet, and the ground still firm underfoot on the riverbank.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov-Feb

Short, wet, and the low ground floods - this is the village that became an island in 1961, and the marsh paths turn to bog. Stick to the higher village streets.

◐ Mind yourself
06 / 07

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Treating it as a sightseeing stop

There is no castle to see - Coreen Castle, the 15th-century O'Brien tower that stood here, has no remains above ground (Shannon RFC plays on part of the site). No heritage centre, no trail. The reward is the river and the story, not a ticketed attraction.

×
The shopping centre as your verdict on Coonagh

Coonagh Cross Shopping Centre is exactly what it sounds like and tells you nothing about the place. The village is down toward the water, not at the retail park. Walk to the river.

×
The riverbank after heavy rain or in winter

This is tidal estuary marsh that genuinely floods. Lovely on a dry spring evening, a bog in January. Check the weather and the ground before you go down to the cabins.

+

Getting there.

By car

Coonagh is about 5 km west of Limerick city centre on the N18, at the Coonagh Roundabout near the mouth of the Limerick Tunnel. Roughly 10 minutes from the city. Shannon town is 15 minutes further west, Ennis about 30 minutes north.

By bus

Limerick city bus services run out the Caherdavin/Ennis Road corridor close to Coonagh; check current Bus Éireann and TFI Local Link timetables, as routes here are commuter-focused and shift.

By train

No station. Limerick Colbert Station is about 15 minutes by car, on the lines to Dublin, Ennis and the wider network.

By air

Shannon Airport (SNN) is the closest, about 20 minutes west by car - unusually convenient for a village this small. Cork is around 1 hour 30 minutes.