Three kilometres of work, zero water
The Dry Canal
In 1846, at the height of An Gorta Mór, the Board of Works approved a canal to connect Lough Mask to Lough Corrib — a practical waterway through three kilometres of forested limestone. Hundreds of men were employed on it, cutting and lining the channel, building the lock mechanisms, doing the work precisely and carefully. By the time the channel was complete, water pumped in vanished almost immediately through the limestone bed. The rock is honeycomb. Nobody had checked. The engineers had, some say, suspected this from the start but kept the workforce on regardless — a famine relief project that was about the wages, not the canal. It has sat bone-dry and perfectly intact ever since. Walk it east from the village on the Cong Forest Trail.
One of Ireland's great medieval objects, now in Dublin
The Cross of Cong
Made around 1123 for Turlough O'Connor, High King of Ireland, the Cross of Cong is a processional reliquary cross of oak covered in bronze and silver filigree, studded with glass settings and panels of enamel, with a rock crystal boss at its centre. The crystal is there to display, and protect, a fragment of the True Cross itself — a relic brought to Ireland at O'Connor's instruction. It was kept at Cong Abbey for seven centuries. In 1839 the Royal Irish Academy acquired it, and it has been in the National Museum in Dublin ever since. The cross is widely considered one of the finest examples of Hiberno-Romanesque metalwork that survives. A replica is in the Quiet Man Cottage museum in the village.
Ford, Wayne and a Technicolor summer in Mayo
The Quiet Man
John Ford came to Cong in the summer of 1951 to shoot what he had been trying to make for twenty years — a romantic comedy set in a romanticised west of Ireland, starring John Wayne as an Irish-American boxer returning to his ancestral village and Maureen O'Hara as the woman he pursues, with some violence, across the fields. The film required a specific shade of green that only Technicolor and Mayo light delivered. Pat Cohan's bar on the main street was the pub exterior. Maam Cross and Ashford Castle grounds appear throughout. The village was Inisfree; Cong was the stage. When The Quiet Man won Ford his fourth Academy Award for directing in 1953, the village had already understood what had happened to it. The tourism economy that followed has not entirely stopped.
How a brewery bought a castle and kept going
Ashford Castle and the Guinness family
The castle on the shore of Lough Corrib dates to a de Burgo tower house of the 13th century, extended repeatedly by the Browne family (of Westport House descent) over subsequent centuries. In 1852 Sir Benjamin Lee Guinness, of the Dublin brewery family, bought the estate and spent the next two decades transforming it — adding towers, battlements, gate lodges, and a formal garden, creating the Victorian castle-house hybrid you see today. His son Edward, later the first Earl of Iveagh, continued the work. The Guinness family kept Ashford until 1939. It has been a hotel since, under various owners, reaching five-star status and appearing on most best-hotels lists. The thousand-acre estate, the falconry, the fishing on Corrib from the castle pier — all of that is the Guinness inheritance.