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RATOATH
CO. MEATH · IE

Ratoath
Ráth Tó, Co. Meath

The Ireland's Ancient East
STOP 09 / 09
Ráth Tó · Co. Meath

A Dublin commuter town built around a Norman motte, with the Irish Grand National run in its own parish every Easter Monday.

Ratoath is a commuter town that has multiplied roughly tenfold in a generation. There were about a thousand people here in 1996 and just over ten thousand by the 2022 census, which makes it the fourth-largest urban area in Meath and, as the place itself likes to point out, the largest town in the Republic without a Garda station. It sits 25 kilometres north-west of Dublin where the R125 and R155 cross, with the Broad Meadow Water running through it and housing estates spreading back into what were fields a decade or two ago.

The name is older than any of that. Ráth Tó, the ringfort of Tó. The motte in the centre of the village - a flat-topped mound 11 metres high and 52 metres across - was raised by Hugh de Lacy in the 1180s as his personal manor when Henry II handed him most of Meath, and the older ringfort underneath it gave the place its name. Holy Trinity Church, begun around 1820 and rebuilt in the 1870s, now stands on top of the mound in its graveyard. Stand in the churchyard and you are standing on eight centuries of fortification stacked on top of an even older one.

The other reason the name travels is Fairyhouse, three kilometres out on the R155. The racecourse has been there since an 1848 hunt point-to-point, and it has run the Irish Grand National on Easter Monday since 1870 - three miles five furlongs over 24 fences, the busiest jumps meeting in the Irish year. The rest of the time it is a working track on the edge of a working town.

Outside of race week, Ratoath is a functional place. There is a tidy main street with a couple of good pubs and a clutch of restaurants, a strong GAA club, and not a great deal aimed at a visitor. Come for the racing at Easter, or because you live here. Otherwise it is an honest commuter town rather than a day out.

Population
10,007 (2022)
Walk score
Main street walkable end to end; Fairyhouse 3 km off
Founded
Norman manor of Hugh de Lacy, c. 1180s, on an older ringfort site
01 / 09

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 09

The pubs.

None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:

Ryan's Pub

Town-centre local with a steak menu
Pub & steakhouse, Main Street

On the main street in the centre of the village. A straightforward local with a steakhouse side - the pint and the atmosphere are the draw, and the food does a steady trade. The default first stop in town.

The Ratoath Inn

Third-generation village pub
Family-run pub, Main Street

Also on Main Street, third-generation family-run since 1995. A working village pub rather than a gastro project - the other anchor on the street, and the place locals point you to for a proper pint.

The Hatchet Inn

Pub-restaurant on the edge of town
Pub & restaurant, Barstown (R156)

Out at Barstown on the R156, a few minutes from the centre. More of a pub-restaurant than a drinking pub, with a kitchen that runs alongside the bar. The pick if you want food and a pint under one roof on the way in or out of town.

03 / 09

Where to eat.

PlaceTypeLocal note
La Bucca Ratoath Italian, pizza & pasta €€ Italian on the main street, part of a small Leinster group. Pizza, pasta, the reliable family dinner out in Ratoath. Busy at the weekend.
04 Ratoath Italian restaurant €€ The other Italian option in the village. Mid-range, sit-down, a competent local restaurant rather than a destination.
Bia Cafe Cafe, Irish Daytime cafe in the village for coffee, breakfast and lunch. The kind of place you stop into mid-morning, not a dinner spot.
Sweeneys Bakehouse Cafe Bakery cafe Bakery and cafe in town - bread, pastries, a coffee-and-a-bun stop. Good for a quick fuel before the racecourse or a walk.
04 / 09

Where to sleep.

PlaceTypeLocal note
Stay in Dublin and drive out No hotel in the village Ratoath has no hotel of its own. It is close enough to Dublin and to Ashbourne that most race-day visitors stay in the city or at a hotel nearby and drive out to Fairyhouse. The Pillo Hotel in Ashbourne is about fifteen minutes away and is the practical bed for the racing.
05 / 09

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

Hugh de Lacy, 1180s, on an older ringfort

The motte of Ráth Tó

The flat-topped mound in the centre of Ratoath is the reason the town has its name - Ráth Tó, the ringfort of Tó. Hugh de Lacy, one of the most powerful Norman lords in Ireland, raised the motte and bailey here in the 1180s and kept Ratoath as his personal manor after Henry II granted him most of Meath. The mound stands about 11 metres high and 52 metres across at the base, with the line of a defensive ditch still readable on the north and east sides. After de Lacy's death the manor passed to his son Hugh, first Earl of Ulster; it was forfeited in 1210 and returned to Walter de Lacy five years later. A medieval church once stood on the same ground and was a ruin by the 1690s.

Begun c. 1820, rebuilt 1874

Holy Trinity Church on the mound

Holy Trinity Church sits directly on the motte-and-bailey site in the middle of the village, which is unusual - most churches give the earthwork a wide berth. It was begun around 1820 by Rev. Richard Carolan and substantially rebuilt in the late 1860s and 1870s, finished about 1874. The result is a five-bay nave with an ashlar limestone entrance gable, a bellcote, buttresses, pointed traceried windows and chancel mosaics. The graveyard around it carries the older church site. It is a regionally rated building, and the easiest way to read the layered history of the town - stand in the churchyard and you are on the Norman mound.

Easter Monday since 1870

Fairyhouse and the Irish Grand National

Fairyhouse Racecourse sits in Ratoath parish on the R155, three kilometres off the N3. The first meeting was an 1848 point-to-point run by the Ward Union hunt, and the course has staged the Irish Grand National every Easter Monday since 1870, when the first running was won by a horse called Sir Robert Peel. The track is a right-handed circuit of about one mile and 6.5 furlongs, with a 2.5-furlong run-in and a slight uphill finish. The National itself is a handicap chase of three miles and five furlongs over 24 fences, limited to thirty runners aged five and up. It is the centrepiece of the busiest jumps day in the Irish racing year, and the one weekend Ratoath is genuinely full.

Meath senior football, 2019 / 2020 / 2022

Ratoath GAA

For a town that was a village inside living memory, Ratoath GAA punches hard. The club fields around fifty teams and won the Meath Senior Football Championship three times in four years - 2019, 2020 and 2022 - which is the kind of run that reorders a county. On a championship Sunday the club is the centre of the town in a way the main street is not. If you want the version of Ratoath that is more than a commuter dormitory, it is at the GAA grounds.

06 / 09

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

Village and motte walk The main street end to end, into the graveyard at Holy Trinity to stand on the Norman motte, and back. Modern town for the most part, but the mound and the church are the genuine history and they are right in the centre.
2 kmdistance
45 minutestime
Broad Meadow Water riverside The Broad Meadow Water runs through the town and there is flat walking along it. Not dramatic - a quiet local river path rather than a scenic route - but a pleasant leg-stretch away from the traffic.
Short, flatdistance
30 minutestime
07 / 09

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar-May

Easter Monday is the point. If you are coming for the Irish Grand National at Fairyhouse, this is the weekend, and the town is at its busiest and best. Outside that, spring is mild and quiet.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun-Aug

Warm and ordinary. The racing has moved on for the season and the town is in commuter mode. Fine if you have a reason to be here, little pull if you do not.

◐ Mind yourself
Autumn
Sep-Oct

Back to school and work, the roads busy morning and evening. The GAA championship is the local drama. Otherwise a functional time in a functional town.

◐ Mind yourself
Winter
Nov-Feb

Cold and commuter-grey. The pubs and the church keep going. Fairyhouse runs winter jumps cards, which is about the only reason to make a special trip in these months.

◐ Mind yourself
08 / 09

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Visiting Ratoath for a day out that is not the racing

Strip away Fairyhouse and Ratoath is a commuter town that does its job well and asks for nothing from a tourist. The motte and Holy Trinity are worth ten minutes if you are passing, but they are not a day. Come at Easter for the National, or because you live here.

×
Expecting a quaint heritage village

Ratoath has grown tenfold since 1996 and looks it - new estates, a tidy modern main street, a supermarket. The eight-century-old motte is real and right in the centre, but it sits inside a thoroughly modern town. Adjust your expectations before you arrive.

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Getting there.

By car

Dublin to Ratoath is about 30 minutes north-west, leaving the M3/N3 for the R125 or R155 into the village. Fairyhouse is signposted off the N3 on the R155, three kilometres out. Parking at the racecourse is managed and large on race days; expect queues on Easter Monday.

By bus

Bus Éireann route 103/103X (Dublin and Navan via Ashbourne) runs through to Ratoath and on toward Fairyhouse and Emerald Park. There are extra services laid on for the big race meetings.

By train

No railway station in Ratoath. The nearest is the M3 Parkway commuter line at Dunboyne, about fifteen minutes by car, or Dublin itself.