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ASHBOURNE
CO. MEATH · IE

Ashbourne
Cill Dhéagláin, Co. Meath

The Ireland's Ancient East
STOP 07 / 07
Cill Dhéagláin · Co. Meath

A town invented by one man in the 1820s, on a road where the Volunteers won their only stand-up fight of 1916.

Ashbourne is a manufactured town, and unusually honest about it. There was a church site here called Killegland - Cill Dhéagláin, the church of Déaglán - but the town you drive through was a deliberate creation. Around 1820 a coaching and transport man named Frederick Bourne bought the land along the Dublin road and laid out a town with an inn, a hotel and a row of businesses, and named the result after his favourite tree and himself. Ash and Bourne. Most Irish towns grew over centuries around a monastery or a castle. This one was a business plan.

It is best known for one afternoon. On Friday 28 April 1916, while the Rising collapsed in Dublin, Thomas Ashe and Richard Mulcahy led roughly fifty men of the Fingal Battalion against the Royal Irish Constabulary at Rath Cross Roads, just north of the town. The fight ran five hours along the ditches and drains of the crossroads. The RIC, including reinforcements who arrived by car, were forced to surrender. It was the only outright Volunteer victory of that week, and the mobile, dug-in tactics Ashe and Mulcahy used became the model for the guerrilla war that followed. The memorial at Rath Cross was unveiled in 1959 and expanded for the centenary in 2016.

The rest is a commuter town doing commuter-town things. The population went from under 5,000 in 1996 to about 15,680 in the 2022 census, and the housing estates show it. There is a working main street with pubs and takeaways, the Church of the Immaculate Conception from the 1880s, and the old Killegland graveyard with the bones of the earlier settlement. Emerald Park - which most people still call Tayto Park - is a few minutes west, with one of the larger wooden roller coasters in Europe.

Come for the 1916 site if the history pulls you, or for the theme park if you have children, or because you live here. There are no tourist tricks. It is twenty minutes off the M50 and it knows exactly what it is.

Population
~15,680 (2022)
Walk score
Main street walkable end to end
Founded
Planned town laid out c. 1820 by Frederick Bourne; older settlement of Killegland (Cill Dhéagláin) on the same ground
01 / 07

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 07

The pubs.

None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:

The Snailbox

Trad most weekends, rooms upstairs
Pub, restaurant & rooms, Kilmoon (off the N2)

Out at Kilmoon, A84 YK35, a few minutes from the town on the old N2 road. A long-running family pub, restaurant and venue with a resident trad band most Friday and Saturday nights and accommodation if you do not want to drive home. The name comes from a 19th-century hedge-school teacher, Jem Clark, who carried his home on his back and was likened to a snail. The pick of the area for a night with music.

The Stags Head

Town-centre local, renovated
Pub & bar, Main Street

On the main street in the centre of town. Refurbished in recent years, with a beer garden out the back. The straightforward town pub - a pint, a crowd, takeaways and pizza places within a few doors if the hunger lands.

Fox's Den

Relaxed, trad sessions, pool
Bar, Main Street

Also on the main street. Red-brick interior, an easy relaxed room, regular traditional music sessions, pool tables and a dart board, with a heated area outside. The other town-centre anchor.

03 / 07

Where to sleep.

PlaceTypeLocal note
Pillo Hotel Ashbourne 4-star hotel & leisure club The main hotel in the town, with a leisure club and a restaurant on site. Roughly five minutes from Emerald Park, about 25 minutes from Dublin Airport and 30 from the city centre. The practical bed if you are here for the theme park or breaking a journey north.
The Snailbox (rooms) Pub accommodation, Kilmoon Rooms above the pub at Kilmoon, off the N2. Convenient if you have come for the music and the trad and would rather not drive.
04 / 07

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

28 April 1916, Rath Cross

The Battle of Ashbourne

On the Friday of Easter week, Thomas Ashe and his second in command Richard Mulcahy led around fifty men of the 5th (Fingal) Battalion of the Dublin Brigade toward Batterstown, intending to cut the railway. At Rath Cross Roads north of Ashbourne they attacked the RIC barracks. A column of police arrived by car as reinforcements, and the fight spread out along the ditches and drains of the crossroads for roughly five hours. The Volunteers, dispersed and fighting from cover rather than holding a fixed building, eventually forced both the barracks garrison and the relief column to surrender. It was the only clear-cut Volunteer victory of the Rising, and the only action where the Crown forces were beaten in the open. The mobile tactics became a template for the War of Independence. A memorial at Rath Cross, unveiled by President Seán T. O'Kelly in 1959 and expanded for the 2016 centenary, marks the ground.

The schoolmaster commander

Thomas Ashe

Thomas Ashe was born in Lispole, Co. Kerry, in 1885 and became principal of Corduff National School in Lusk, north County Dublin, in 1908. A member of the Irish Republican Brotherhood and active in the Gaelic League, he commanded the Fingal Battalion at Ashbourne, the one engagement of 1916 that went unambiguously the Volunteers' way. He was court-martialled and sentenced to death after the Rising; the sentence was commuted and he was released in the 1917 amnesty. Re-arrested that year, he went on hunger strike in Mountjoy and died on 25 September 1917 after a botched force-feeding. His funeral was an enormous public event and a turning point for republican sympathy.

Frederick Bourne, c. 1820

A town named to order

Ashbourne is one of the few Irish towns you can date to a single decision. The medieval settlement here was Killegland - Cill Dhéagláin, the church of Déaglán - and the old graveyard still carries the early-Christian name. But the town itself was built from about 1820 when Frederick Bourne, who made his money in coaching and transport, bought the land along the main Dublin-to-the-north road and laid out an inn, a hotel and a parade of businesses to serve the traffic. He named it from ash, his favourite tree, and Bourne, himself. The Church of the Immaculate Conception followed in the 1880s. Everything else is the last forty years of Dublin spilling north.

05 / 07

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar-May

Mild and quiet. The right time to visit the Rath Cross memorial and walk the town without the summer traffic. The Easter dates line up with the anniversary of the battle.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun-Aug

Emerald Park is at full tilt and the roads west of town carry the queues. Fine for a family day, busier than the place usually is.

◐ Mind yourself
Autumn
Sep-Oct

Cool, clear, the town back to itself once the school year starts and the theme-park crowds thin.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov-Feb

Cold and dark and the theme park largely shut. The pubs and the history keep going regardless, but there is little reason to make a special trip.

◐ Mind yourself
06 / 07

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

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Treating Ashbourne as a sightseeing day out

It is a two-hundred-year-old commuter town, not a heritage village. The real draws are specific - the 1916 site at Rath Cross, and Emerald Park for families. Come for one of those, or because you live here. Do not expect a medieval main street, because there is not one.

×
Looking for the battle in the town centre

The Battle of Ashbourne was fought at Rath Cross Roads on the edge of town, not on the main street. The memorial is at the crossroads. If you want to stand on the ground, that is where to go.

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Getting there.

By car

Dublin to Ashbourne is about 20 minutes north on the M2/N2, roughly 17 km to the M50. Emerald Park is a few minutes west of the town. Parking in town and at the park is straightforward.

By bus

Bus Éireann routes 103 and 103X (Dublin and Navan via Ashbourne) and 105/109A serve the town, plus the Ashbourne Connect express coach (193). Route 103 runs frequently from the city and continues to Ratoath and Emerald Park.

By train

No railway station in Ashbourne. The nearest mainline stations are at Drogheda (about 30 minutes by car, on the Dublin-Belfast line) or in Dublin.