Teach an Scotaigh · Co. Monaghan
House of the Scot. A drumlin crossroads three miles from where three counties meet, with a Titanic name on the church wall and a great house down the road.
Scotshouse is small - around 220 people at the last count - and honest about it. A crossroads, two churches, a community centre, a GAA pitch, and drumlin farmland rolling away in every direction. It sits in the old parish of Currin in the far south-west of Monaghan, three miles east of the point where Cavan, Fermanagh and Monaghan all touch. The English name comes from a Cromwellian soldier called Scott who took land here in the 1650s and stayed; the Irish, Teach an Scotaigh, says the same thing.
The thing worth stopping for is the church wall. St Andrew's, the Church of Ireland church on the rise (it turned two hundred in 2010), carries a memorial plaque to Ernest Waldron King, a young assistant purser with the White Star Line who went down with the Titanic in 1912. There is a stained-glass window for the men of the parish killed in the First World War beside it. Two small village memorials to the two great catastrophes of the early twentieth century, a few feet apart, in a place most maps skip.
Down the Clones road is Hilton Park, the Madden family's place since 1734 - a Hague mansion of the 1870s on a 600-acre demesne, with a nine-hole golf course in the parkland and rooms for the night. For a few years in the late 2000s it hosted the Flat Lake Literary and Arts Festival, run by the author Pat McCabe (a Clones man) and the film-maker Keith Allen, a gloriously shambolic gathering that ran its last in 2014. The estate is still here; the festival is a memory.
Don't come expecting a destination. Come for the quiet - the Comber where the Finn and the wee river meet, Carnroe hill with its long view over the Erne valley, Lisabuck lake with its ringfort - and use Clones or Hilton Park as the base. This is a place you pass through slowly, not one you arrive at.