Béal Átha na Múille · Co. Roscommon
The Roscommon edge of Athlone, where the dormitory estates run out and a portal tomb older than the pyramids sits in a field off the main road.
Bellanamullia - or Bealnamulla, depending on which sign you read - is the Roscommon edge of Athlone, four kilometres west of the town centre on the R362, just over the county line where Athlone stops being Westmeath. For census purposes it is rolled into the Monksland-Bellanamullia suburb, a band of modern housing estates, a business park and the pharma plants that grew up here in the 2000s. If you came looking for a tidy village green you came to the wrong place. This is a commuter edge, and honest about it.
The Irish name, Béal Átha na Múille, means "mouth of the mill ford", and the mill it remembers is still standing - rebuilt. Kelly's mill in the 1830s, Doyle's mill from 1865, burnt out in 1925 and empty for most of a century until a Doyle descendant turned it back into a working bar, restaurant and B&B. That is the village's one proper anchor.
What earns the village a place in this book is the field a kilometre to the south. The Meehambee Dolmen is a portal tomb from around 3,500 BC, older than Newgrange, older than the pyramids, with a 24-tonne capstone leaning at an angle on its surviving uprights. Almost nobody stops. You reach it on a bridle path off the main road, and most of the traffic streaming past to Monksland has no idea it is there.
Use the village as it is meant to be used - as a doorstep to Athlone. The town, Sean's Bar, the castle, the Shannon and Lough Ree are all ten minutes east. The bus into the station runs through Bealnamulla all day. The dolmen and the quiet Roscommon townlands toward Drum and Clonown are the reward for getting off the main road.