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BALLINGARRY
CO. TIPPERARY · IE

Ballingarry
Baile an Gharraí, Co. Tipperary

The Ireland's Ancient East
STOP 06 / 06
Baile an Gharraí · Co. Tipperary

The cabbage patch where Irish history made a brief, doomed stand.

Ballingarry is a small village in south-east Tipperary, up in the Slieveardagh hills, with a population of 291 and one event on its CV that the whole of Ireland knows about, even if most people couldn't tell you exactly where the village is. On 29 July 1848, a few hundred Young Irelanders led by William Smith O'Brien arrived here looking to start a revolution. What they got was a standoff at a farmhouse, two men dead, and a movement that was effectively over by teatime. The 'Battle of Widow McCormack's Cabbage Patch' is the name the history books gave it later. The people who were there called it the Warhouse, and the name stuck.

The farmhouse is still standing. It is 3.9 kilometres north-northeast of the village at Farranrory - an OPW heritage site now, renamed the Famine Warhouse 1848 in 2004. The two-storey stone building was built in 1844 as the home of coalmine owner Thomas McCormack, who died in the Famine years and left his widow Margaret to raise their five children alone in it. Those are the children the police took hostage when they barricaded themselves in. O'Brien walked up to the parlour window and told the constables they were all Irishmen and should hand over their guns and go free. They fired on him instead. The rebels, outnumbered and outgunned when reinforcements arrived, scattered into the hills. O'Brien was arrested, tried for treason, and transported to Van Diemen's Land.

The rest of the village's story runs on coal. The Slieveardagh hills were mined for anthracite from at least 1654 - the civil survey of that year records coal being worked at Coolquill for blacksmiths. Commercial operations expanded over the following three centuries: Ballingarry Collieries (Production) Ltd was the largest employer in the area in the 1960s, and the last shaft closed in 1989. The village that grew around the mines has had to find a different identity since. What it has left is the Warhouse, the hills, and a story about one afternoon in 1848 that shaped how Ireland thought about itself for the next seventy years.

Population
291
Walk score
Village in ten minutes; Warhouse is a 4km drive
Founded
Coal-era village; rebellion 29 July 1848
Coords
52.5867° N, 7.5471° W
01 / 06

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 06

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

29 July 1848

The Battle of Ballingarry

William Smith O'Brien was a Protestant landlord and MP for Limerick who had converted to the cause of Irish independence after watching the Famine hollow out his county. By July 1848 he was leading what remained of the Young Ireland movement through Kilkenny and into Tipperary, gathering supporters - perhaps 600 people at the height of it, though fewer than 50 had weapons. On the 29th they caught up with a unit of 46 Irish Constabulary officers at Farranrory, a townland four kilometres from Ballingarry. Sub-Inspector Trant barricaded his men into Widow McCormack's farmhouse and took her five children as hostages. O'Brien went up to the parlour window and offered the constables their freedom if they surrendered their arms. They opened fire. Two rebels were killed - Thomas Walsh and Patrick McBride. More police arrived. The rebel force scattered. O'Brien hid in a cabbage patch; he was found two days later and arrested. He was tried with Thomas Francis Meagher, Terence Bellew MacManus and Patrick O'Donoghue, sentenced to death - the sentence commuted, under public pressure, to transportation for life - and sent to Van Diemen's Land in 1849.

The building that survived

The Famine Warhouse

Margaret McCormack's house became a National Monument in 1989, was renovated between 2000 and 2001, and was officially renamed the Famine Warhouse 1848 in 2004. The name does double work: it reminds you that the rebellion and the Famine were the same event, that the people in the field that day were not romantic insurgents but a population that had been starving for three years and had nothing left to lose. The McCormack family themselves left for America in 1853, five years after the battle, which tells you something. The OPW manages the site now. It opens in the afternoons, with limited hours in winter - check before making the drive.

The Protestant rebel from Limerick

William Smith O'Brien

O'Brien was an unlikely revolutionary: a landowner, an MP, a man who had opposed Daniel O'Connell's repeal campaign on constitutional grounds as recently as 1843. The Famine changed him. By 1848 he was in Paris watching the revolutions of that year sweep through Europe, and he came home convinced that Ireland needed to do the same. The attempt at Ballingarry lasted an afternoon. O'Brien was transported to Tasmania, where he initially refused the parole offered to the other leaders and was held in harsher conditions at Maria Island and Port Arthur. He was eventually given a conditional pardon in 1854, an unconditional one in 1856, and returned to Ireland to a public welcome that suggested how differently the country remembered Ballingarry from how the authorities intended. He died in 1864. A monument to him stands on O'Connell Street in Dublin, placed there in 1870.

Four hundred years of digging

The Slieveardagh coalfield

Coal was being mined in the Slieveardagh hills when the civil survey of 1654 was carried out - the record notes it as 'suitable for blacksmiths at Coolquill.' Commercial operations continued for the next three and a half centuries. Ballingarry Collieries (Production) Ltd operated from 1957 until 1972 and was the largest employer in the district during the 1960s. Smaller operations continued into the 1980s; the last commercial mines closed in 1989 when pumping costs and poor coal quality made the deep workings uneconomic. The shafts are flooded now. The landscape around the village still carries evidence of it - spoil heaps, old headframes, the layout of a community built around shifts and wages rather than farming.

03 / 06

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

Slieveardagh Hills back roads The hills behind Ballingarry are crossed by quiet country roads with almost no traffic. Old colliery remains appear along the way - spoil heaps, blocked shaft entrances, the ghost of an industrial landscape returning to pasture. Long views south toward the Suir valley and east toward Kilkenny. No waymarked trail on the summit ridge; bring OS map sheet 75 and make your own route.
Variable (5-15 km)distance
1.5-4 hourstime
Famine Warhouse and Farranrory townland Drive 3.9 km north-northeast from the village to the Warhouse. The OPW site is open afternoons April-September daily (2:30-5:30pm) and weekends only October-March (2-4pm); call ahead on 087-9089972 or check Heritage Ireland before going. The surrounding fields and the townland of Farranrory reward a walk - the cabbage patch is still a field, the farmhouse is still a farmhouse.
Short (drive + walk)distance
1-2 hours at the sitetime
04 / 06

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar-May

The hills green up early in the Slieveardagh. The Warhouse opens full hours from April. Quiet roads, no competition for the lanes.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun-Aug

Ballingarry does not have a tourist season in any meaningful sense. The Warhouse is open daily. The hill roads are at their best in July - the month the rebellion happened, if that means anything to you.

◉ Go
Autumn
Sep-Oct

The Slieveardagh light in October is good walking weather. Warhouse closes to weekends-only from October. Time your visit accordingly.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov-Feb

The Warhouse opens Saturday and Sunday only, 2-4pm. Confirm before going. The village is very quiet. The site is accessible if you plan around the hours.

◐ Mind yourself
05 / 06

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

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Treating the Warhouse as a quick roadside stop

It is four kilometres out of the village and the site takes time to absorb properly. The context - Famine, rebellion, hostage-taking, transportation - is the whole point. Give it an hour at least, not five minutes and a photograph.

×
Arriving outside opening hours without calling ahead

The Warhouse is staffed part-time. Hours are April-September daily 2:30-5:30pm, and Saturday-Sunday only October-March. Outside those windows the site is closed. The OPW number is 087-9089972. Use it.

×
Confusing this Ballingarry with the other two

There is a Ballingarry in North Tipperary (near Lough Derg) and another in County Limerick. The 1848 rebellion happened in South Tipperary, in the Slieveardagh hills, on the R691. If your sat-nav takes you somewhere else, it has.

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Getting there.

By car

Ballingarry is on the R691, about 30km east of Clonmel and 22km south-west of Kilkenny city. From the M9 Dublin-Waterford motorway, exit at Knocktopher and take the R693 west - around 20 minutes. From Cashel, take back roads through Fethard and Mullinahone, roughly 35km. The Famine Warhouse is 3.9km north-northeast of the village - follow signs for Farranrory.

By bus

No direct Bus Éireann service to Ballingarry. Clonmel and Kilkenny are the nearest hubs. A car is the practical option.

By train

Nearest stations are Clonmel (about 30km west) and Kilkenny (about 30km north-east). No public transport connection from either to the village.