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GRANGE
CO. WATERFORD · IE

Grange
An Ghráinseach, Co. Waterford

The Ireland's Ancient East
STOP 08 / 08
An Ghráinseach · Co. Waterford

The Waterford Grange - a pub, a church and a school on the N25 between Youghal and Dungarvan, five minutes inland from Ardmore.

There are a lot of Granges in Ireland. There is a Grange in Sligo with the surf and Mullaghmore around the corner. There is a Grange in Kilkenny, and one in Louth, and one in Tipperary. This is none of them. This Grange is a small west-Waterford village on the N25, a few minutes inland from Ardmore, with a Roman Catholic church, St Mary's national school, two shops, one pub and the traffic going past on its way to Youghal or Dungarvan.

The name is the whole story. Gráinseach - a monastic grange, a granary, the outlying farm of a religious house where tenants brought a tenth of the corn for the clergy. The village sits on top of that old arrangement and has done quietly for centuries. It shares a parish with Ardmore, where St Declan was preaching before Patrick had landed, and the two churches of the parish - Ardmore and Grange - were both built in the late 1830s by the same priest, Rev. Patrick McGrath. The Grange church is the big plain one on the rise.

If you stop, you stop for the old graveyard. Otherwise the village does not ask much of you, and it would be honest to keep going the five minutes to Ardmore for the round tower, the cliff walk and the sea. Grange is where some of the people who live near Ardmore actually live. That is a fine thing to be, and it is roughly all this place is.

Population
A few hundred
Pubs
1and counting
Walk score
A church, a school, two shops and a pub - a five-minute walk end to end
Founded
Medieval monastic grange; ogham-era origin at Lisginan
01 / 08

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 08

The pubs.

None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:

Flemings Bar

The one pub in the village
Roadside pub, Newtown, on the N25

On the N25 at Newtown, the landmark everyone gives directions by - turn at Flemings for Newtown Farm and the back road to Ardmore. It is the village pub, and it is the village pub in the literal sense that it is the only one. A roadside bar on a Cork-Waterford trunk road, doing the job a country pub does. Do not expect a gastro menu or a programmed trad session; expect a pint and the local news.

03 / 08

Where to sleep.

PlaceTypeLocal note
Newtown Farm Guesthouse 4-star country house B&B, Grange A four-star country house and working farm at Grange, signposted off the N25 at Flemings on the L2026, roughly halfway between Dungarvan and Youghal and about fifteen minutes from each. Breakfast, farm setting, and an easy run down to Ardmore and the coast. The natural base if you want to be in the quiet hinterland rather than on the seafront at Ardmore.
04 / 08

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

A monastic granary

The name

Grange - Gráinseach in Irish - was the term for an outlying farm of a religious house, the place where tenant farmers brought the tenth part of their corn for the use of the clergy. The word came in through Norman French (graunge) from the Latin granica, a granary. Monks worked the land here, kept the farming going, and the placename outlasted the monks. Ireland has dozens of Granges for exactly this reason. This is the Waterford one.

Two villages, one parish

The Ardmore and Grange parish

Ardmore and Grange together make up the Roman Catholic parish of Ardmore and Grange, one of the most historic stretches of coast in Ireland - by many accounts St Declan founded his see here before St Patrick arrived. Ardmore has the famous round tower, the cathedral ruin, the cliff walk and the sea. Grange has the parish church and St Mary's national school. The two present churches were both built by Rev. Patrick McGrath in the late 1830s, Ardmore and Grange alike. Up to 1847 the Old Parish (Ballymacart) was joined to them too, before it was cut off and attached to Ring.

In Mill and Churchquarter graveyard

The Lisginan ogham stone

The medieval parish church of Grange - known as Lisginan, or Lisgenan - survives as a portion of the north and south walls and part of a gable, plain early-English work, recorded as a ruin as far back as the 18th century. In the graveyard, called Mill and Churchquarter, an ogham pillar stone has been re-erected as a grave marker against the western wall. It carries a Latin cross with expanding ends and an inscription read by the scholar Macalister as MAQI MUCOI IVODACCA, the kind of thing west Waterford turns up regularly and treats casually. None of it is seriously signposted. After years of neglect, local people and the Historic Graves project cleared and surveyed the site in 2017. You just go in and look.

13 July 1998

The Tour de France came through

For one afternoon in July 1998, Grange was on the route of the Tour de France. Stage 2 ran from Enniscorthy to Cork - the year the Grand Départ was held in Ireland - and the peloton came down the N25 through Dungarvan, through Grange and on towards Youghal and the County Cork line. Ján Svorada won the stage in a sprint into Cork. For the village it was a day of bunting and a wall of riders blurring past the pub, and then the road went quiet again, which is its usual condition.

05 / 08

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

Mill and Churchquarter graveyard The old graveyard above the village at around 88 metres, with the ruin of the medieval Lisginan church and the re-erected ogham stone against the west wall. Cleared and surveyed by Historic Graves and local volunteers in 2017 after years of overgrowth. No interpretation panels, no car park to speak of - just a quiet hilltop burial ground with a 1,500-year-old inscription in it. Wear something on your feet that does not mind grass.
Short, on footdistance
20 minutestime
Ardmore Cliff Walk Not in Grange - five minutes south on the local road to Ardmore - but it is the walk you actually came to this corner of Waterford for. Round the headland past St Declan's well, the coastguard ruins and a wrecked crane ship, with the round tower over your shoulder. If you only do one thing from a Grange base, do this.
4 km loopdistance
1.5 hourstime
06 / 08

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar-May

West Waterford greens up and the Ardmore cliff walk five minutes away is at its best before the summer crowds. Grange itself is quiet year round, which is the point.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun-Aug

Long evenings and the coast on the doorstep. Ardmore fills up; Grange does not. Book Newtown Farm ahead if you want the country-house bed in high season.

◉ Go
Autumn
Sep-Oct

Soft light, empty cliff paths, and the graveyard at its most atmospheric. A good time to have this corner more or less to yourself.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov-Feb

Short days and weather off the sea. There is little to do in Grange itself when the light goes; the pub keeps the lights on and Dungarvan is fifteen minutes for a proper dinner.

◐ Mind yourself
07 / 08

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Treating Grange as a destination

It is not one, and it does not pretend to be. There is one pub, two shops, a church, a school and an old graveyard. Come for the graveyard and the ogham stone, then drive the five minutes to Ardmore, which is the real reason to be in this parish.

×
Expecting the heritage to be signposted

Mill and Churchquarter graveyard and the Lisginan ogham stone are unmarked and easy to miss. There are no panels, no visitor centre, no opening hours. West Waterford is casual about a thousand-year-old inscription. Ask locally or use the Historic Graves listing, and go quietly.

×
Confusing this Grange with the others

There are Granges all over Ireland - Sligo, Kilkenny, Louth, Tipperary. The surf, the standing stones, the medieval town - those belong to other Granges. This one is a roadside village on the N25 in west Waterford. Set your satnav by Ardmore or the Eircode, not by the name.

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Getting there.

By car

On the N25 Cork-Waterford road, halfway between Youghal (about 15 minutes west) and Dungarvan (about 15 minutes north-east). Ardmore is five minutes south on the local road. Flemings pub at Newtown is the usual turning landmark. Cork is about an hour, Waterford city about an hour.

By bus

Bus Éireann route 40 (Cork-Waterford) runs along the N25 and stops nearby on request. It is a roadside stop, not a station - check the timetable and flag the bus.

By train

No train. The nearest stations are Mallow or Waterford Plunkett, both well over an hour away.

By air

Cork Airport (ORK) is about an hour. Waterford Airport (WAT) is around 40 minutes when it has scheduled flights.