County Waterford Ireland · Co. Waterford · Touraneena Save · Share
POSTED FROM
TOURANEENA
CO. WATERFORD · IE

Touraneena
Tuar an Fhíona

The Ireland's Ancient East
STOP 05 / 06
Tuar an Fhíona · Co. Waterford

A crossroads in Sliabh gCua, and the poet's hill behind it.

Touraneena is small. A church, a school, a community hall, a shop, a crossroads on the R672 between Clonmel and Dungarvan. The mountains are at the back — the Knockmealdowns south, the Comeraghs east — and the road is the reason you pass through. Most cars do. The village is the kind that pulls its weight in a parish rather than on a postcard.

The angle here is not what is in the village; it is what the village stands for. Sliabh gCua, the upland district Touraneena sits in, was an Irish-speaking country into the late 19th century and kept enough of the language alive in song and family memory to produce a generation of Gaelic scholars and singers. Pádraig Ó Miléadha, born in the parish in 1877, went to Wales for the work and wrote home in Irish from a nickel plant in Clydach. The song he wrote there — Sliabh Geal gCua na Féile — is still sung. It is the place's clearest signature, and it is in a language the parish no longer speaks day to day. That gap is the story.

Population
~200 (small area, 2016)
Walk score
A crossroads, a church, a school. Five minutes either way.
Coords
52.2022° N, 7.715° W
01 / 03

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 03

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

The old district

Sliabh gCua

Sliabh gCua is the historic name for the upland country of west Waterford, between the Comeragh and Knockmealdown ranges. In the mid-18th century it ran a court of poets — a cúirt filíochta, a regular meeting of working Irish-language poets — and well into the 19th century it was a Munster Irish-speaking area. The language thinned through the famine and the decades after; by the late 1800s it was a household language, not a parish one. A handful of native speakers lived on into the early 20th century. The name and the songs are what remain. The parish of Touraneena and Sliabh gCua keeps both in plain sight.

An emigrant's song

Sliabh Geal gCua na Féile

Pádraig Ó Miléadha was born in the parish in 1877. He left around 1903 for the Mond Nickel Works in Clydach, south Wales, and worked there for nearly twenty years. After a long strike closed the plant in 1922 he came back to Ireland and ended up teaching Irish for a living. The song he is remembered for — Sliabh Geal gCua na Féile, the bright mountain of Sliabh gCua of the welcome — he wrote in Wales, looking home. It is one of the standards of the sean-nós repertoire. The hill in the song is the hill behind the village.

Green of the wine

Tuar an Fhíona

The Irish name is Tuar an Fhíona — literally the bleaching-green or pasture of the wine. A tuar is a small enclosed field where linen was bleached or animals folded; fíon is wine. What wine was doing in this corner of west Waterford is the kind of question Irish place-names leave open. One school guesses imported communion wine landed inland here on its way to a parish; another suspects a transcription accident centuries old. Nobody has a clean answer. The local place-names project at Tuar an Fhíona keeps the question alive in its name.

+

Getting there.

By car

Touraneena sits on the R672 about twenty kilometres north of Dungarvan and nineteen kilometres south of Clonmel — half an hour either way. Ballymacarbry is fifteen minutes east, the Nire Valley road branching off it.

By bus

TFI Local Link runs a Dungarvan–Clonmel service via Touraneena on selected days; check Local Link Waterford for current timetables. No regular Bus Éireann service stops in the village.

By train

Nearest stations are Clonmel (19 km) and Waterford (one hour by road). Then car or pre-booked taxi.

By air

Cork Airport is 1h 45m by car. Dublin is 2h 15m. Shannon is 2 hours.