County Westmeath Ireland · Co. Westmeath · Tyrrellspass Save · Share
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TYRRELLSPASS
CO. WESTMEATH · IE

Tyrrellspass
Bealach an Tirialaigh

The Ireland's Hidden Heartlands
STOP 08 / 08
Bealach an Tirialaigh · Co. Westmeath

A crescent of Georgian houses around a green, with a 1597 ambush in the field memory.

Tyrrellspass is the kind of village you nearly drive through and then realise, half a mile down the R446, that you should not have. Pull in. The whole point of the place is the curve — a long Georgian crescent of houses around a sloping green, with a small Church of Ireland at one end and a tower house off the corner. It was laid out as a single piece of work in the late 1700s and finished by Jane, Countess of Belvedere, around 1810. It is still, more or less, what she drew.

The other half of the place is the bog road. In 1597, in the middle of the Nine Years' War, Captain Richard Tyrrell ambushed an English force of around a thousand on the only passable strip of dry ground through the surrounding wetland. The accounts vary on the numbers, but the standard telling is that one English soldier walked away. The bog has been drained, the road is now the R446, and the village that grew up at the pass took its name from the captain.

There is not a great deal to do here. That is part of it. Walk the crescent, look at the church, look across the green, drive five minutes to the tower house, eat lunch at Browne's on the Green, drive on to Kilbeggan or Mullingar. An hour and a half well spent. Two hours if the church is open.

Population
483 (2016 census)
Walk score
The whole crescent in ten minutes
Founded
Planned village laid out c. 1810
Coords
53.3897° N, 7.3719° W
01 / 08

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 08

The pubs.

None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:

The Spinning Wheel Bar

Locals, weekends
Village pub

Pool table, dart board, live music at weekends. Not trying to be a destination. That is the appeal.

03 / 08

Where to eat.

PlaceTypeLocal note
Browne's on the Green Restaurant at The Village Hotel €€ On the Crescent, looking at the green. Family-run since 2016. Breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea, dinner. Locally sourced and not showing off about it. The reason most people stop.
Tyrrellspass Castle Restaurant Castle restaurant & medieval banquet €€€ The restored 15th-century tower house at the edge of the village does medieval-style banquets. A small, intimate version of the Bunratty thing. Either you are in for that or you are not. Ring ahead.
04 / 08

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

Captain Tyrrell's ambush

The Battle of Tyrrellspass, 1597

In the Nine Years' War, an English column of around a thousand troops marched out from Mullingar through the bogs of south Westmeath. Captain Richard Tyrrell — a Hiberno-Norman who had thrown in with Hugh O'Neill — was waiting with three or four hundred Irish at the only firm crossing. The fight that followed is the one the village is named for. The English numbers were broken. The figure of one survivor is the one most often given, and it is generous to neither side. The Earl of Tyrone wrote about it afterwards as one of the war's clean wins.

A planned green, 1810

Lady Belvedere's village

Jane, Countess of Belvedere — the wife of the second Earl, the Rochforts of Belvedere House on Lough Ennell — turned what had been a road-side cluster into a single composition in the late 1700s and early 1800s. The crescent of houses, the green inside it, the church at the head, all read as one drawing. She also paid for most of St Sinian's, and she left £5,000 in her will for a children's orphanage that ran here from 1842 until 1943. Estate villages of this kind are rarer in the Irish midlands than in England, and Tyrrellspass is one of the better ones.

The church on the green

St Sinian's

Church of Ireland, built around 1810 under Lady Belvedere's patronage, extended in 1823 with a steeple added by the Countess. Inside is a life-size neoclassical monument to her husband, George Augustus Rochfort, the second Earl of Belvedere, who died in 1814 — carved by John Bacon the Younger, who was a name in London at the time. Worth a look if the door is open. It often is not; ask in the village.

05 / 08

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

The Crescent and Green Walk the curve. Look back at the church. Cross the green. Look at the curve from the other side. That is the village, and it is enough.
500 mdistance
15 mintime
Cloncrow Bog & Village Trail Local heritage trail loops out from the village past the castle and into the bog country south-west. Signage in the village; pick up a map at Browne's.
Variabledistance
1–2 hourstime
Tyrrellspass Castle Five minutes' walk from the crescent. Restored four-storey tower house, c. 1410, the seat of the Tyrrells who took tolls from travellers crossing the only firm ground in the bog. It is the reason there is a village here at all.
1 km return from the greendistance
20 mintime
06 / 08

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar–May

The green starts greening. Long evenings make the crescent worth a slow walk.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun–Aug

Tidy Towns season. The village competes seriously and looks it. Roses on the crescent.

◉ Go
Autumn
Sep–Oct

Quiet. The light off the green at five in the afternoon is the reason you stopped.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov–Feb

Short days, the church usually shut. Browne's keeps going. Most everything else is closed by six.

◐ Mind yourself
07 / 08

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Treating it as a destination for the day

It is a stop, not a base. An hour or two is the right length. Build it into a Kilbeggan–Mullingar–Belvedere House loop and you have a proper day.

×
Driving past without pulling in

If you are on the R446 anyway, the crescent is twenty seconds off the road. Stopping is free.

×
The medieval banquet on a weeknight if you wanted a quiet dinner

It is what it says it is — costumes, courses, the lot. Browne's on the Green is the answer if you wanted dinner, not theatre.

+

Getting there.

By car

On the R446 (the old N6) between Kilbeggan and Rochfortbridge. Dublin is 81 km — roughly an hour and a quarter on the M6, exit at junction 5 for Kilbeggan and run the old road in. Mullingar is 20 minutes north.

By bus

Bus Éireann route 115/115A (Dublin–Athlone via the old N6) calls at Tyrrellspass several times daily. Slower than the motorway coaches but it actually stops here.

By train

No station. Mullingar is the nearest, on the Dublin–Sligo line.

By air

Dublin Airport (DUB) is about 1 hour 20 minutes by car.