County Westmeath Ireland · Co. Westmeath · Rochfortbridge Save · Share
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ROCHFORTBRIDGE
CO. WESTMEATH · IE

Rochfortbridge
Droichead Chaisleán Loiste

The Ireland's Hidden Heartlands
STOP 07 / 07
Droichead Chaisleán Loiste · Co. Westmeath

A coaching village the M6 forgot, named for the family that built Belvedere.

Rochfortbridge is one of those places that the road told for two hundred years and then stopped telling. The N6 between Dublin and Galway ran straight through the village street; the coaches changed horses; the pubs filled at lunchtime; the chipper had a queue at half-five. Then in 2006 the M6 opened and the traffic took the bypass and the village went quiet. Pull in off the motorway now and the place feels like a town that has just exhaled.

The name is the story. The Rochforts came to Ireland in the thirteenth century and ended up the biggest landlords in this corner of Westmeath. The same family — specifically Robert Rochfort, the first Earl of Belvedere — built Belvedere House on Lough Ennell and locked his wife in a house on the estate for thirty-one years over a rumoured affair with his brother. That is the famous Rochfort story. The unfamous one is the bridge over the Derry River that carries his family's name on the road sign, and the village that grew up on either side of it.

There is not a great deal here. A long main street, two pubs that work, a restaurant that pulls people in from Mullingar on a Saturday, a Mercy secondary school that is genuinely the largest thing in town. It is a commuter village now — Dublin is an hour, Athlone is half an hour, Mullingar is twenty minutes. Use it as a base for Belvedere House and Tyrrellspass and the Kilbeggan Distillery and you will eat well, sleep cheap, and never sit in traffic.

Population
1,473 (2016)
Walk score
Main street top to bottom in eight minutes
Founded
Named for the Rochfort family, who held land here from the 13th century
Coords
53.4072° N, 7.3000° W
01 / 07

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 07

The pubs.

None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:

Lyster's

Old-style local
Main Street pub

An old-style bar on the main street. Guinness, Sky Sports, all the racing live, and live music on a Saturday night. The kind of pub that has not redecorated and has not needed to.

Corrigan's Bar

Local-leaning
Village pub

The other one. A working village pub with a steady local trade. Nothing dressed up; nothing trying. Sit at the bar and someone will tell you who is who.

03 / 07

Where to eat.

PlaceTypeLocal note
O'Reilly's Restaurant Restaurant & bar €€ On the main street, with a pub through the back. Irish breakfasts, roasts on a Sunday, a three-course dinner menu on Friday and Saturday evenings. The kind of place that pulls people in from Mullingar and Tyrrellspass on a weekend.
04 / 07

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

A family that named the bridge

The Rochforts

The Rochforts — possibly Norman, possibly French — turned up in Ireland in the thirteenth century and acquired large holdings across Kildare, Meath and Westmeath. By the eighteenth century the head of the family was Robert Rochfort, first Earl of Belvedere, who built Belvedere House on Lough Ennell in 1740 and ended up famous for locking his second wife Mary in a house on the estate for thirty-one years on a rumour of adultery with his brother Arthur. The bridge over the Derry River here, and the village that grew up around it, take their name from the same family. Belvedere is twenty minutes north if you want to see how the other half of the story ended.

2006, and the day the road went quiet

The bypass

Until 2006 the N6 — the main Dublin to Galway road — ran through the middle of the village. Lorries, coaches, holiday cars, all of it on the main street, all day. The M6 motorway opened that year and the through-traffic moved to the bypass overnight. Trade in the pubs and shops took a hit; the village street got walkable again. Twenty years on, the place reads as a commuter village with a quiet centre, which is a fair trade if you are the one living there.

A Mercy school built in 1954

St Joseph's

St Joseph's Secondary School opened in 1954 as a Sisters of Mercy school with thirteen pupils, most of them boarders. Boys were admitted from 1963. A new building went up in 1983. Enrolment now runs over a thousand pupils — boys and girls — pulled from the surrounding parishes and villages, and the school is one of the larger employers in the area. If you are passing the village at half past three on a school day, the traffic is the school run.

05 / 07

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar–May

Long bright evenings on the way. The village is at its best when the through-traffic is light and the school year is winding down.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun–Aug

A reasonable base for Belvedere, Tyrrellspass and Kilbeggan. The motorway makes day-trips to Athlone and Mullingar painless. Book O'Reilly's for a Saturday.

◉ Go
Autumn
Sep–Oct

School back in, traffic on the village street busier between three and four, otherwise quiet. Good light in the fields around the Derry River.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov–Feb

A commuter village in a flat midland landscape. Short days, dark evenings, not much on. If you are passing through it works; as a destination, it does not.

◐ Mind yourself
06 / 07

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Treating it as a sightseeing stop on its own

There is no museum, no castle, no stately home in the village. Use it as a base for Belvedere House, Kilbeggan Distillery and Tyrrellspass green and it earns its keep; on its own it does not.

×
The motorway service area instead of the village

If you have come off the M6 for a break, drive the extra minute into Rochfortbridge and have a coffee in O'Reilly's rather than a forecourt sandwich. Same time, better lunch.

×
A Sunday-evening drive after the GAA

Rochfortbridge GAA matches empty into the village afterwards and the small main street fills up. Park early or come on a different evening.

×
Looking for a "village pub" experience with sessions and trad

That is Tyrrellspass and Kilbeggan country, not here. Rochfortbridge pubs are working locals — bar, racing, Saturday-night music in Lyster's. Set your expectations to that and you will have a fine pint.

+

Getting there.

By car

On the old N6 — now the R446 — between Kilbeggan and Tyrrellspass. The M6 motorway runs north of the village; come off at junction 4 (Rochfortbridge) and you are in the centre in two minutes. Dublin is around 70 km / 1 hour. Athlone is 35 km / 30 minutes. Mullingar is 20 km / 20 minutes.

By bus

Citylink 763 — the Galway to Dublin Airport service via Athlone — stops in the village. Limited services daily, so check the timetable in advance. Bus Éireann long-distance routes mostly run the M6 and skip the village.

By train

Nearest station is Mullingar (20 minutes by car) on the Dublin–Sligo line.

By air

Dublin Airport is 90 minutes by car via the M6/M50.