Currach Cló · Co. Wexford
Spielberg's Omaha Beach. Tóibín's Brooklyn. The same long stretch of yellow sand.
Curracloe is a crossroads village eight kilometres northeast of Wexford town, and the village isn't really the point. The point is the strand. Seven kilometres of flat yellow sand running north from the access ramp at Ballyvaloo, edged the whole way by dunes, with the Raven Nature Reserve at the southern end and the open sea on the other side. There is a shop, a couple of pubs, two hotels, and a beach. Most people are here for the beach.
If the place looks familiar before you've ever been, that's because you've seen it. Steven Spielberg shot the opening twenty-seven minutes of Saving Private Ryan on Ballinesker Beach in the summer of 1997 - the D-Day landing, all of it, on a kilometre of Curracloe sand. Eleven weeks of preparation, $12 million, 1,500 extras, breakwaters and explosives the French authorities wouldn't allow on the actual Omaha. The shooting itself took fifteen days. The crew put the beach back exactly as they found it. Eighteen years later John Crowley brought Saoirse Ronan and Domhnall Gleeson down for the beach scenes in Brooklyn, and the same dunes did a quieter, sunnier job.
The dunes are doing more work than they look. They have been forming here since the 1600s, sand blown ashore and trapped by marram grass, building up the spit that closes off Wexford Harbour to the south. In the 1950s the state planted Corsican pine on a long stretch of them to stop the sand moving and lost a beach to a forest in the process. The result is the Raven: 1,455 acres of pine and dune and saltmarsh, a National Nature Reserve since 1980, and the winter roost for about a third of the world's Greenland white-fronted geese.
Don't come for a town. Come for an empty Tuesday on the strand, a walk into the Raven, a pint in Furlongs after, and the strange small thrill of standing on the bit of sand where Captain Miller hit the water.