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Redcross
An Chrois Dhearg, Co. Wicklow

The Ireland's Ancient East
STOP 09 / 09
An Chrois Dhearg · Co. Wicklow

A small south Wicklow village in low hills off the N11, named for a red-painted cross, with one very good pub that brews its own beer.

Redcross is a small village in south Wicklow, about three kilometres east of the N11 in the low hills behind the Avoca valley, roughly halfway between Wicklow town and Arklow. The 2022 census counted 256 people. By any normal measure it is a crossroads with a church and a few houses - and it would be, except that someone built a brewery here.

The name is literal. A wooden cross, painted red, stood in the centre of the village through the 18th and 19th centuries, and the place took its name from it. The older Irish form, Baile Domhnaill Rua, carries a separate story - that Red Hugh O'Donnell rested here on his way south in the 16th century, fleeing Crown forces. The modern Irish name, An Chrois Dhearg, simply means the red cross. The parish itself is younger than the legends: it was formed in 1829 out of the union of Kilbride, Dunganstown and Castlemacadam, and the small church without tower or spire in the village dates from the same year.

What brings people now is Mickey Finn's and the Wicklow Brewery behind it - an award-winning food pub with a working micro-brewery, a beer hall, daily tours, and trad music. On the edge of the village, River Valley Holiday Park is one of the better-run caravan-and-camping parks in Leinster, which means Redcross sees more summer visitors than its size would suggest. A footnote for the curious: the philosopher Ludwig Wittgenstein spent part of 1948 working in a farmhouse near here, and said he could never have done the work in Cambridge.

Use it as a quiet base or a stop on a south Wicklow loop. The coast at Arklow and Wicklow town are both fifteen to twenty minutes; Avoca and the Meeting of the Waters are just across the valley; the Wicklow hills rise to the west. Come for an evening in the brewery, not for a long stay.

Population
256 (2022)
Founded
Parish formed 1829 from the union of Kilbride, Dunganstown and Castlemacadam
Coords
52.883° N, 6.150° W
01 / 09

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 09

The pubs.

None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:

Mickey Finn's Gastro Pub

Busy food pub with its own beer
Pub, brewery & restaurant, village centre

The reason most visitors come to Redcross. An award-winning gastro pub - it has taken the Vintners' Federation best-food-pub title - with the Wicklow Brewery working behind it. Pub-grub menu of burgers, wings and beer-steamed mussels at the front, a bistro for steaks and fish specials, and the house beers poured straight off the tank. Trad sessions and live music at weekends. Book the bistro at the weekend.

03 / 09

Where to eat.

PlaceTypeLocal note
Mickey Finn's Bistro Bistro at the brewery pub, village centre €€ The serious end of Mickey Finn's. Dry-aged steaks, daily fish specials, and dishes built around the house beers - the ginger-nut beer turns up in the kitchen as well as the glass. The snug does finger food for a small group; the bistro is the proper sit-down meal. The best dinner in this corner of Wicklow.
The Wicklow Brewery beer hall Beer hall & micro-brewery, behind Mickey Finn's €€ A beer hall attached to the working brewery. Tasting trays, brewery tours twice a day, and the Hooley in the Brewery nights where you sit on a keg and drink local beer. More an experience than a restaurant, but food and beer both flow. Ring ahead for tours.
04 / 09

Where to sleep.

PlaceTypeLocal note
River Valley Holiday Park Caravan, camping & glamping park, village edge A long-running, multi-award-winning family park on the edge of the village - touring pitches, mobile homes, treehouses, lodges and glamping huts, plus a bar, restaurant and a long list of activities from crazy golf to an electric go-kart track. Open roughly mid-March to late October; weekends fill fast in July and August, so book ahead. The main reason Redcross has any visitor beds at all.
05 / 09

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

A painted crossroads marker

The red cross

Redcross is named for exactly what it says: a wooden cross, painted red, that stood in the centre of the village through the 18th and 19th centuries, in its days as an estate village under the Earls of Wicklow. The Irish An Chrois Dhearg is a direct translation. The cross is long gone, but the name held. There is no grand monument to see - the story is the name itself, which is the kind of plain Wicklow fact worth knowing as you pass the crossroads.

A 16th-century legend

Baile Domhnaill Rua and Red Hugh

The older Irish name of the place, Baile Domhnaill Rua, the townland of Red Donal or Red Hugh, carries a tradition that Red Hugh O'Donnell, the Ulster chieftain, sheltered or rested here while travelling south in the 16th century, evading Crown forces. It is legend rather than documented history, but it is the kind of story that attaches itself to a name with red in it, and it has stuck to Redcross for centuries.

Philosophy in a Wicklow field

Wittgenstein's farmhouse, 1948

In 1948 the philosopher Ludwig Wittgenstein took himself to a remote farmhouse near Redcross to work, away from Cambridge and from people. He found the isolation productive and later said he could never have got the work done in Cambridge. His friend Maurice O'Connor Drury, an Irish psychiatrist, visited him there. It is a curious footnote for a 256-person village - one of the 20th century's great philosophers, thinking hard in a Wicklow farmhouse - and there is nothing to mark it, which is somehow fitting.

A parish made from three

The church of 1829

The Church of Ireland parish of Redcross was formed in 1829 out of the union of three older parishes - Kilbride, Dunganstown and Castlemacadam. The small church in the village, a plain building without tower or spire, was raised the same year, on a site given by the Earl of Wicklow, who also put a hundred pounds toward the cost. By the 1830s the village had grown to around 48 houses and held cattle fairs three times a year. It has stayed small since.

06 / 09

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

Village and church loop There is no waymarked trail in the village itself. A short wander takes in the crossroads, the 1829 church and the lanes out into the surrounding farmland. Pleasant in spring and autumn; quiet year-round.
Shortdistance
30 mintime
Avoca and the Meeting of the Waters Across the valley to the west, the village of Avoca and the Meeting of the Waters - where the Avonmore and Avonbeg rivers join, made famous by Thomas Moore's song - give the proper Wicklow river-valley walking. Ten to fifteen minutes by car from Redcross, and the obvious outing if the brewery is not open yet.
Drive plus short walksdistance
Half daytime
07 / 09

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar-May

The hills behind the village green up and River Valley reopens around mid-March. A good quiet time before the summer caravan season.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun-Aug

Peak season for the holiday park, the brewery hooleys and weekend trad in Mickey Finn's. The village is at its busiest, which for Redcross still means relaxed. Book beds and the bistro ahead.

◉ Go
Autumn
Sep-Oct

The Avoca valley turns; River Valley runs to late October. A fine season for the river-valley walks across the way and an evening in the brewery.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov-Feb

The holiday park is closed and the brewery pub runs reduced winter hours (Wednesday to Sunday for much of the off-season). Check before you drive out. Fine as a meal stop, not a destination season.

◐ Mind yourself
08 / 09

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Expecting a town

Redcross is a 256-person crossroads village, not a town. There is a church, a pub-brewery, a holiday park and farmland. That is the whole of it. Come for the brewery and the quiet, not for streets to wander.

×
Turning up midweek in winter without checking hours

Mickey Finn's and the Wicklow Brewery run reduced hours through the off-season and River Valley closes for the winter. Out of season, the village can be very quiet. Ring the pub before you commit the drive.

×
Looking for the JFK ancestral homestead here

The Kennedy ancestral home at Dunganstown is in County Wexford, not the Dunganstown beside Redcross. Easy to conflate the two names. The Wexford one is the one with the homestead and visitor centre.

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Getting there.

By car

Off the N11 about 3 km east, signposted between Wicklow town (about 20 minutes north) and Arklow (about 15 minutes south). Dublin is roughly 1 hour 15 minutes up the N11/M11.

By bus

No direct village bus service to speak of. Bus Eireann and the M11 Expressway serve Wicklow town and Arklow on the coast; a car is the practical way in to Redcross itself. Local Link covers parts of rural south Wicklow.

By train

The nearest stations are Wicklow and Arklow on the Dublin Connolly to Rosslare line, each about 15 to 20 minutes away by road. No station at Redcross.