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HAMILTONSBAWN
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Hamiltonsbawn
Bábhún Hamaltúin

The Ireland's Ancient East
STOP 04 / 04
Bábhún Hamaltúin · Co. Armagh

A village named after a fort that's gone, named after a poem that's almost forgotten.

Hamiltonsbawn is a village named after a building that hasn't existed for nearly four hundred years. John Hamilton — Scottish planter, brother of the first Viscount Claneboye — was given the land in 1610 and put up a bawn in 1619: a fortified courtyard, lime-and-stone walls twelve feet high, ninety feet long by sixty-three broad by 1622, thirty armed men inside if needed. The Irish rebellion of 1641 knocked it flat. The name stuck to the village that grew up around the ruin.

The fame, such as it is, comes from Jonathan Swift. Staying with the Achesons down the road at Markethill in 1729, the Dean of St Patrick's wrote 'The Grand Question Debated: whether Hamilton's Bawn should be turn'd into a Barrack or a Malt-house'. A comic argument in verse. The barrack won. They built it on the bawn's foundations in 1731. By the 1830s a local grocer was asking Lord Gosford for permission to dismantle the barracks too, for stone to fix the village. Permission granted. Now it's a farm field on the Mullaghbrack road.

What's left is a long Main Street, two pubs, a parish church a mile or two off at Mullaghbrack, and a residential village that empties into Armagh every morning for work. Come here if you've a feeling for plantation history, or if you're walking the back roads between Armagh and Gosford. Otherwise the village won't try too hard to keep you.

Population
895 (2011 census)
Walk score
Main Street end-to-end in 4 minutes
Founded
1619 (John Hamilton's bawn)
Coords
54.3495° N, 6.6321° W
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At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

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The pubs.

None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:

The Bawn Inn

Locals, quiet weeknights
Village pub

25 Main Street. Named for the thing that's gone. One of two pubs in the village — the older of them, in feel.

The Corner Bar

Locals, end of the street
Village pub

1 Main Street, on the corner. The other pub. Between them they have the village covered.

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Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

1619, and the men inside it

John Hamilton's bawn

John Hamilton (c. 1568–1639) was a younger brother of Sir James Hamilton, 1st Viscount Claneboye — one of the Scottish undertakers planted in Ulster after 1610. John got land in mid-Armagh and put up his bawn here in 1619. The 1622 plantation survey recorded it as lime-and-stone walls twelve feet high, ninety feet long by sixty-three broad, with two flankers. Hamilton had settled twenty to twenty-six families on the land and could field thirty armed men, as his plantation undertaking required. Eight years later the rebellion came. The bawn was destroyed in 1641.

Swift's barrack-or-malt-house joke

The grand question debated

Jonathan Swift came up from Dublin in 1728, 1729 and 1730 to stay with Sir Arthur and Lady Acheson at Market Hill. In 1729 he wrote a comic poem about the ruin of the bawn down the road — 'The Grand Question Debated: whether Hamilton's Bawn should be turn'd into a Barrack or a Malt-house'. It's a domestic argument in verse between Lady Acheson and her household about what to do with the wreck. The barrack side won the argument and won the actual decision: a barracks was built on the bawn's foundations in 1731, the same year Swift's poem first appeared in print.

1830s, by request

The barracks goes too

The barracks didn't last long either. By the 1830s a Mr James McRoberts, a grocer in the village, asked Lord Gosford for permission to let local inhabitants dismantle the barracks for stone — house-building, road repairs, the kind of practical reuse that empties a ruin in a season. Permission granted. The site is now a farm field on the eastern side of the B111 Mullaghbrack road heading south from the village towards Markethill. Two losses on the same square of ground — the bawn the village is named after, then the barrack a famous poem argued about. The name outlasted both.

Mullaghbrack parish, the same night

The 1641 rector

When the rebellion swept through mid-Armagh in October 1641, the parish churches of Mullaghbrack and Kilcluney were destroyed alongside the Achesons' castle at Markethill and Hamilton's bawn — the same night, the same fires. The rector of Mullaghbrack, Reverend Mercer, was killed; so was the rector of Loughgilly, Reverend Burns. The current St John's parish church at Mullaghbrack — a couple of miles south of the village — sits where that destroyed church stood. A list of its rectors runs from 1613 to the present: twenty-two of them, forty-four curates, four hundred years of names.

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Getting there.

By car

Hamiltonsbawn is on the A51, about 5 miles (8 km) east of Armagh city. For Markethill, take the B111 south for 3 miles. Free on-street parking on Main Street.

By bus

Translink Ulsterbus serves the village from Armagh on local routes. Check current timetables — services are limited compared to Armagh–Markethill on the A28.

By air

Belfast International is about an hour north. Dublin Airport is around 90 minutes south on the M1/A1.