County Carlow Ireland · Co. Carlow · Palatine Save · Share
POSTED FROM
PALATINE
CO. CARLOW · IE

Palatine

The Ireland's Ancient East
STOP 05 / 05
Palatine · Co. Carlow

German refugees settled here in 1709. Their descendants founded Methodism in America.

In 1709 the British government shipped roughly 3,000 Protestant refugees from the Rhine Palatinate — the German region that gives the village its name — to Ireland as a buffer against Catholic land reclamation. Several hundred were settled north of Carlow town on confiscated lands. They arrived speaking German, practising Lutheranism and Reformed Protestantism, and carrying family names that were entirely foreign to the county around them: Switzer, Sparling, Manders, Embury, Heck. The village they settled is still called Palatine. The road north, the R448, still runs through it. Most cars do not stop.

The Palatine families resisted assimilation longer than anyone expected. For decades they married within the community, maintained their surnames, kept their own religious traditions. Methodism arrived among them in the 1740s when John Wesley's preachers moved through Leinster, and it took — partly because the Palatines were already Protestant and partly because they were already a community apart. Philip Embury and Barbara Heck, both children of Palatine families settled in Ballingrane, Co. Limerick, grew up in that tradition. They had roots in the same 1709 wave.

In 1760, Philip Embury and Barbara Heck emigrated to New York. They found the city without a Methodist congregation. Barbara Heck — the story goes — walked into a card game being played by neighbours, swept the cards into the fire, and told Embury he had better start preaching or she would find someone who would. He did. He built a small chapel on John Street in Manhattan in 1768, the first Methodist chapel in America. Both Embury and Heck are remembered as founders of American Methodism. Both trace their line to the Palatine settlers, the German refugees who came to Carlow and Limerick over 300 years ago and never entirely went home.

Walk score
Crossroads village — ten minutes end to end
Founded
c. 1709
Coords
52.8730° N, 6.9240° W
01 / 05

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 05

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

Rhine Palatinate to Leinster

The 1709 Settlement Scheme

The winter of 1708–09 was one of the coldest in European history — the Rhine froze solid in December. Thousands of Protestant refugees from the Rhine Palatinate, many of them already displaced by the wars of Louis XIV, moved north and west looking for land and safety. The British government, partly for strategic reasons and partly from genuine Protestant sympathy, arranged passage for around 3,000 of them to Ireland. They were settled across Limerick, Kerry, and Carlow on confiscated or Crown lands. The Carlow settlement, north of the town on the R448, was one of the main clusters. The village they built still carries the name they were given.

Switzer. Sparling. Manders. Embury. Heck.

The Palatine Surnames

The families settled in Carlow and Limerick kept their German surnames across generations in a way that was unusual — most immigrant communities in Ireland quickly Hibernicised their names or lost them through intermarriage. The Palatines held on. Switzer, Sparling, Manders, Embury, Heck and others were still on the land a century after the settlement. A handful survive today. Some became minor landlords; some became tenant farmers; some emigrated to America and Canada in the 19th century and took the names with them into the diaspora. The surnames are the simplest proof that something specific happened here in 1709 and did not dissolve.

How a Carlow bloodline built a church in Manhattan

Philip Embury and Barbara Heck

Philip Embury and Barbara Heck were both children of Palatine families settled in Ballingrane, Co. Limerick — same 1709 wave as the Carlow Palatines. Both were Methodists. Both emigrated to New York in 1760. When Barbara Heck found her neighbours playing cards in 1766, she destroyed the cards and told Embury to start preaching. He built a small preaching house on Barrack Street, then a chapel on John Street in 1768 — the first Methodist building in America. Embury died in 1773; Heck lived through the Revolution and died in Canada in 1804. Both are commemorated in American Methodist history as founders of the faith in the United States. The line runs back to German refugees on a Carlow road.

19th century, still standing

The Methodist Chapel at Palatine

A plain Methodist chapel was built in the village in the 19th century, serving the descendants of the original Palatine settlers. It is a small, plain building — the kind that survives not because anyone particularly maintains it but because nothing particularly threatens it either. Methodism in Ireland is now a small denomination, and the congregation that once filled the chapel is a fraction of what it was. The chapel sits as a marker: this is where it happened, this is what they built, and from here a thread runs to Manhattan and a congregation that eventually grew to millions.

03 / 05

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar–May

The R448 corridor is quiet and green. A half-hour stop fits easily into a day between Carlow town and Leighlinbridge.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun–Aug

No tourist season to speak of. Come when you like. There is no queue.

◉ Go
Autumn
Sep–Oct

Fine weather, Carlow countryside at its best. The village does not change. That is the point.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov–Feb

The chapel and crossroads look well in frost. There is nothing else organised. Come as a detour, not a destination.

◐ Mind yourself
04 / 05

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Expecting a heritage centre or signage

There is no Palatine visitor experience. The village is the experience. Read before you go and bring your own context.

×
Driving through without stopping

The crossroads on the R448 looks like nothing. It is where three centuries of diaspora history began. Pull over.

+

Getting there.

By car

Carlow town is 4 km south on the R448. Drive north out of Carlow and Palatine is a five-minute run. From Leighlinbridge take the R448 north; allow ten minutes.

By bus

Local services on the Carlow town corridor pass the R448. Check Bus Éireann timetables for Carlow–Tullow or Carlow–Naas routes; ask for the Palatine crossroads stop.

By train

Carlow town station is on the Dublin–Waterford mainline, 4 km south. Taxi from there.

By air

Dublin Airport is 1h 20m by car via the M9 to Carlow.