The forest the estate left behind
Dún a' Rí
Dún a' Rí means 'fort of the king' — a reference to a hillfort somewhere in the woods that nobody can quite agree on. The 560-acre forest park is what's left of the Cabra demesne after the Land Commission broke the estate up. The bridges in the woods carry the old names — Cromwell's Bridge, Sarah's Bridge, the Wishing Well — and the river they cross is the Cabra. Public since 1959. Free. The walk does not know it has been put on a leaflet.
Two bridges, two stories
Cromwell's Bridge & Sarah
Cromwell's Bridge in the forest is named for an army that supposedly crossed here in 1649 on the way from Drogheda — the kind of folk-history that may or may not be true and has stuck regardless. Sarah's Bridge, further up the river, is named for Sarah Maxwell, the young wife of the castle's owner who died in a fall from her horse on the avenue in 1813. The 'Sarah' who is said to walk the corridors of Cabra Castle is the same Sarah. Hotel guests still ask after her at breakfast.
1936 to today
The gypsum vein
Geologists found a thick gypsum bed under the fields east of Kingscourt in the 1920s. The Drummond mine opened in 1936 — first underground, then drift, now both — and the plasterboard plant followed in the late 1940s under the Gypsum Industries name. British Plaster Board took it over in the 1970s, and Saint-Gobain absorbed it in 2005. It is still the largest employer in this corner of Cavan. If you have ever skimmed a wall in Ireland, you have probably skimmed Kingscourt rock.
The windows
Evie Hone at St Mary's
St Mary's parish church on the main street was built in 1843 and re-glazed in stages through the 20th century. Evie Hone (1894–1955) — one of the great Irish stained-glass artists, contemporary of Harry Clarke, late convert to Catholicism — left work here. She is more famous for her windows in Eton College and at Tullabeg, but the Kingscourt panels are properly hers. Walk in on a sunny morning, stand at the back, wait for the light to come through. There is no charge and no fuss.
Whose castle is it anyway
The Pratts and the Maxwells
The original Cabra Castle — the ruin you can still find above the river in Dún a' Rí — was a 17th-century Pratt house. The Pratts built the current Gothic-revival castle, called Cormey Castle, on a new site in 1815 after the older one burned. Mervyn Pratt sold it in 1964 and the Corscadden family eventually turned it into the hotel it is now. The Maxwells of the Sarah-Maxwell story were Pratt cousins who lived there in the early 1800s. Like every Big House in this country, the timeline is a tangle and the locals can untangle it for you over a pint.