A canal that lit a country
The Shannon Scheme
When the Free State was four years old it bet its first big budget on hydroelectricity. Siemens-Schuckert won the contract in 1925 and dug a ten-kilometre headrace canal from Parteen Weir down through Clonlara to a new turbine hall at Ardnacrusha. Five thousand men worked on it. The scheme opened in 1929 and within a decade was carrying most of the electricity in Ireland. The cut you walk along is that canal.
The 18th-century navigation underneath
The Errina Canal
Before the Shannon Scheme there was the Errina Canal — opened in 1799 to let boats bypass the Doonass rapids on the Shannon. Three locks, hand-cut stone, a horse-drawn towpath. The 1925 scheme buried most of it under the new headrace, but the Errina locks themselves still sit in the woods east of the village, mossed over and quiet. They were the engineering wonder of their day. Their day was short.
Dinghies on a working canal
The Sailing Club
The Sailing Club at Clonlara was founded in 1957 on the new headrace. The cut was wide, sheltered, and reliably windy because it pointed straight down a valley. Generations of Limerick and Clare sailors learned to tack on it. The clubhouse is small. The fleet is mostly Mirrors and Lasers. Junior sailing runs through the summer.
The high-king up the road
Brian Boru country
Killaloe, ten kilometres up the R463, was the seat of Brian Boru in the 11th century — the high-king who broke Viking power at Clontarf in 1014. The whole stretch of east Clare from Clonlara to Killaloe sits in his shadow. Kincora, his palace, was on the hill above the cathedral. Nothing of it is left above ground. The road through Clonlara is one of the old approaches to it.