County Clare Ireland · Co. Clare · Kilnaboy Save · Share
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KILNABOY
CO. CLARE · IE

Kilnaboy
Cill Iníne Baoith, Co. Clare

The The Burren
STOP 06 / 06
Cill Iníne Baoith · Co. Clare

A sheela-na-gig above the door, a round tower stump in the yard, and a Cross of Lorraine on the gable. One small church, a lot to look at.

Kilnaboy's name means 'Church of Baoith's Daughter' in Irish - the founder of the original monastery here was reportedly a woman named Baoith. The ruined stone church dates to the 11th century in its origins and was repaired in 1715. It was subservient to Corcomroe Abbey from the 12th century, when it was rededicated to St Augustine. The graveyard around it is still in use.

Three things make the church worth stopping for. First, the sheela-na-gig carved above the south door - a medieval stone figure whose meaning is still argued about, but whose presence above a church door suggests an earlier protective function than the Augustinians would have endorsed. Second, a double-armed cross - the Cross of Lorraine - on the west gable. Rare in Ireland; the reason it's here is unclear. Third, the stump of a round tower in the graveyard, which tells you this was a significant monastic site before the stone church existed.

Lough Inchiquin is five minutes' walk west. Corofin is the nearest town, about five kilometres south, with the Clare Heritage Centre and services. This is a place you spend an hour, not a night.

Population
347 (2011 census)
Coords
52.9833° N, 9.0667° W
01 / 06

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 06

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

Medieval, unignorable, unexplained

The sheela-na-gig

Sheela-na-gigs are stone carvings of female figures in an explicit squatting posture, found on medieval churches and castles across Ireland and Britain. The Kilnaboy example, positioned above the south doorway, is one of the better-preserved examples in Clare. The figure has visible ribs on the right side, hands meeting at the vulva. No consensus exists on what they meant: protective apotropaic figures, fertility symbols, a pre-Christian holdover absorbed into church architecture, a warning against lust. They're on churches. That's the part that still puzzles scholars.

A double-armed cross with no obvious explanation

The Cross of Lorraine

The western gable of the church carries a double-armed cross - two transverse bars, the lower longer than the upper. This is the Cross of Lorraine, associated with the French duchy, with crusading orders, and with heraldic tradition. It's uncommon in Irish ecclesiastical architecture. Why it's on a Burren church in County Clare is not recorded. The church was Augustinian from 1194 and the connection, if any, to those associations is unknown.

What was here before the stone church

The round tower stump

The stump of a round tower in the graveyard indicates that the monastery here was significant enough to build one - round towers were expensive and associated with major ecclesiastical sites. This was a place of some importance before the Normans reclassified it. The stone church that stands now dates to the 11th century in its earliest form. The tower predates it.

03 / 06

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

Lough Inchiquin circuit From the church, west to the lakeshore and around. Burren limestone slopes on one side, water on the other. Quiet even in summer.
4 km loopdistance
1 hourtime
Burren road to Corofin South on the local road toward Corofin through farmland and hazel scrub. The Clare Heritage Centre is in Corofin.
5 kmdistance
1h 15mintime
04 / 06

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar-May

The graveyard and church are at their best without summer crowds. The Burren wildflowers start in May.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun-Aug

Easy access, the church and lough are both short walks from parking. A worthwhile Burren stop.

◉ Go
Autumn
Sep-Oct

Very few people. The lake and the graveyard are particularly quiet.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov-Feb

The church is always accessible, the lough is always walkable. Come if you're passing.

◐ Mind yourself
05 / 06

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Rushing through on the way to Lisdoonvarna

Fifteen minutes at this church is worth it. Park, walk in, look at the three carvings. You can't see the sheela-na-gig from the road.

×
Expecting a village with amenities

Kilnaboy has the church and the lough. Services are in Corofin, 5 km south.

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Getting there.

By car

Five kilometres north of Corofin on the R476. From Lisdoonvarna, about 18 km southeast on the R476 via Kilfenora.