An Charraig Dhubh · Co. Cork
A 16th-century harbour fort that swapped cannon for telescopes, a pier where a fishing village used to be, and the hurling club that calls itself The Rockies.
Blackrock is a south-eastern suburb of Cork city, on the bend where the River Lee stops being a river and starts being the harbour. It was its own fishing village once, five kilometres below the city, with a pier and a castle to guard the channel. The city has long since grown out to meet it, but the pier is still there, the square still feels like a village square, and the locals still call it the village - which matters more than whether the map agrees.
The castle is the reason most people come. Cork's citizens petitioned Elizabeth I to build a fort here to keep pirates and raiders out of the upper harbour; the oldest surviving piece is a round tower on the water's edge, roughly ten metres across, from around 1600. It burned down twice and was rebuilt in mock-Gothic by the brothers George and James Pain. Since 2007 it has been Blackrock Castle Observatory, run with Munster Technological University - a planetarium and interactive astronomy centre with a radio telescope that beams schoolchildren's messages at the stars, and a well-regarded restaurant in the keep. A working castle that teaches optics is an unlikely thing, and Cork is quietly proud of it.
Down at the square the €2 million rejuvenation of 2015 to 2017 tidied the pier and the public space, and a farmers market sets up there on Sunday mornings. Two of the better ways to arrive are on foot and free of a car: the Marina promenade runs east along the Lee from Ballintemple and the GAA grounds, and the Blackrock line - the paved-over Cork, Blackrock and Passage Railway, closed in 1932 - comes in as a greenway from Mahon and the harbour side.
As a place to base yourself it works better than its suburb status suggests. The castle and the pier give you a morning, the riverside walks give you an afternoon, the village has three good pubs and a couple of restaurants, and the city centre is ten minutes up the road. Come for the castle, stay for the water.