James Morrison, a Lord Mayor with a taste for Rome
Tivoli House and the borrowed name
Tivoli takes its name from Tivoli House, a Palladian villa built in the late eighteenth century by James Morrison, a Cork merchant and former Lord Mayor. He named it for the gardens and waterfalls at Tivoli near Rome - the height of fashion for a merchant class that had made its money on the river below. The Cork artist Nathaniel Grogan painted the boats on the Lee beneath the house, a view that survives where the house does not. The villa largely burned around 1820, was rebuilt, and the later building was demolished in the mid-twentieth century. What lasted was the name, which detached itself from the gentleman's villa on the hill and fixed itself, with no irony intended, to the container docks at the bottom.
Siúl na Lobhar, Woodhill House and Sarah Curran
Lover's Walk and the leper road
Above the docks, the road that climbs from Tivoli toward Montenotte is Lover's Walk - a name that sounds romantic until you learn the Irish, Siúl na Lobhar, the walk of the lepers. The romantic story attached to it later. Woodhill House on the slope was built in the 1700s by Cooper Penrose, a wealthy Quaker merchant and High Sheriff of Cork. Local tradition holds that Sarah Curran, the sweetheart of the executed rebel Robert Emmet, took refuge with the Penroses here after 1803 and walked the road with him. The historians are cautious about the love story; the views over the Lee are not in dispute. The original Woodhill House was demolished in the 1990s and a Georgian-style house built on its site.
A port being wound down, a station long gone
The docks and the railway that left
Tivoli has been the city's east-bank working water for over a century and a half. The Cork Harbour Commissioners were granted land and foreshore here in the 1860s, and the deep-water quays grew into the container terminal, car-import berths, oil and livestock and ore facilities and the roll-on roll-off ramp that make up Tivoli Docks today. A station on the Cork and Youghal Railway served the suburb from 1860 until it closed in November 1931. The docks themselves are now on borrowed time - the Port of Cork is moving its operations downriver to Ringaskiddy, and the Tivoli site is slated for redevelopment. If you want to see a working Irish container dock from the road, it will not be here forever.