County Cork Ireland · Co. Cork · Castletown-Kinneigh Save · Share
POSTED FROM
CASTLETOWN-KINNEIGH
CO. CORK · IE

Castletown-Kinneigh
Baile Chaisleáin Cainnigh, Co. Cork

The Wild Atlantic Way
STOP 07 / 07
Baile Chaisleáin Cainnigh · Co. Cork

A round tower with six sides instead of round - the only hexagonal one in Ireland.

Castletown-Kinneigh - locals say Castletown, or Kinneigh, or run the two together - is a small farming village in the hills of East Carbery, about five kilometres north of the twin villages of Ballineen and Enniskeane and roughly fifteen from Bandon. It is small enough that you could drive through without noticing, except for one thing standing up out of the churchyard that stops people doing exactly that.

That thing is the Kinneigh Round Tower. Ireland has around sixty round towers and they are, almost without exception, round. This one is not. It sits on a six-sided base, the only hexagonal round tower in the country, built in the early 11th century on a rock outcrop where St Mocholmóg founded a monastery in 619 AD. It is about 26 metres tall, built of local slate, and the OPW keeps it as a national monument. You walk up to it through the graveyard of St Bartholomew's Church of Ireland. No ticket, no turnstile, usually no one else there.

Beyond the tower the village is honest about its size. There is one pub, Cookie O'Callaghan's, which sponsors the local GAA and soccer clubs and does pizza on a Wednesday. There is the church, the graveyard, and the CK Community Park down the road that the whole district shares for hurling, soccer, bowling and the odd autograss meeting. For groceries, fuel and a sit-down meal you point the car at Ballineen and Enniskeane or at Bandon. Come for the tower and the quiet churchyard, not for an evening out.

Population
Small rural village (not separately enumerated by census)
Founded
Monastery founded by St Mocholmóg, 619 AD
Coords
51.7689° N, 8.9539° W
01 / 07

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 07

The pubs.

None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:

Cookie O'Callaghan's

One small country bar, locals first
Village pub, Castletown

The village pub, and the only one. Run by the O'Callaghan family, it sponsors Diarmuid Ó Mathúna's GAA, Castletown Celtic and the local camogie club, which tells you where it sits in the life of the place. Pizza on a Wednesday, road-bowling crowds when there is a score on, and otherwise the steady rhythm of a small West Cork local. Do not arrive expecting a choice of bars - this is the choice.

03 / 07

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

Why six sides

The hexagonal tower

Round towers were built between roughly the 10th and 12th centuries as belfries, landmarks and stores for a monastery's valuables. The taller and finer the tower, the wealthier the community. Kinneigh's is finer than most in one specific way: its base is hexagonal, six flat faces instead of the usual circle, and it is the only one in Ireland built like that. No one has settled why. A structural choice for the rock it stands on, a builder's preference, a local fashion that never spread - the tower keeps its own counsel. The upper storeys are round; only the base is six-sided. It is about 26 metres tall and roughly a thousand years old.

619, 916, and after

Mocholmóg, the Vikings, and the move

The story starts earlier than the tower. St Mocholmóg is said to have founded a monastery here in 619 AD. It was raided and plundered by Vikings in 916, and afterwards the community shifted to the nearby townland of Sleenoge and rebuilt - which is where the tower and the present churchyard stand. The conical cap most round towers wear is gone from this one; in the 18th century the top was adapted as a belfry for the Church of Ireland church beside it. The OPW carried out conservation around 2000 and capped the top in copper to keep the weather out.

A famous chisel, in a country church

The John Hogan altar

Worth knowing if you are in the parish: the Catholic church serving the area, in nearby Enniskeane, holds an altar sculpture by John Hogan dated to 1845. Hogan was the leading Irish sculptor of his generation, a Corkman who trained in Rome, and his work turning up in a rural West Cork church is the kind of thing that rewards a look inside rather than a drive past.

04 / 07

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

The round tower and churchyard Park beside the graveyard at St Bartholomew's and walk up to the tower on its rock outcrop. The old graveyard wall is partly built from the stones of a dismantled 19th-century church, and the oldest grave markers are low and uninscribed. There is no visitor centre and no charge. Quiet, and worth the detour off the main road.
Short, on sitedistance
20-30 minutestime
CK Community Park The district sports park, run by a voluntary association going back to 1993. Pitches for hurling, soccer and camogie, a walking-soccer set-up for the over-55s, and space used for everything from autograss to local produce fairs. Not a tourist attraction - a working community amenity - but a fair spot for a stretch of the legs if a match or a fair happens to be on.
Open grounddistance
As long as you liketime
05 / 07

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar-May

The hills green up and the churchyard is at its best. Long enough evenings to combine the tower with a run into Ballineen and Enniskeane.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun-Aug

Driest months for standing in an exposed churchyard on a rock outcrop. Road-bowling and GAA season has the parish busy at weekends.

◉ Go
Autumn
Sep-Oct

Low light on the slate suits the tower. Quiet on the roads once the summer traffic to the coast thins out.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov-Feb

Short days and West Cork rain. The tower stands regardless, but the churchyard underfoot can be heavy and there is nothing indoors here to shelter in.

◐ Mind yourself
06 / 07

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Expecting a town

This is a village with one pub and a church. There is no main street of shops, no cafe, no hotel. Treat it as a heritage stop, not a destination, and bring your appetite to Ballineen, Enniskeane or Bandon.

×
A guided tour of the tower

There is no visitor centre, no guide and no opening hours - it is an open OPW national monument in a churchyard. You read the sign, you look, you leave. That is the experience, and it is a good one.

×
The old line that Aghagower is the twin

You may read that Kinneigh shares its hexagonal shape with a tower in Mayo. It does not. Kinneigh is the only round tower in Ireland with a hexagonal base. That is the whole point of coming.

+

Getting there.

By car

Off the R585 in the hills north of Ballineen and Enniskeane. From Bandon, about 20 minutes west via the R586 to Enniskeane, then north on local roads. From Cork city, roughly an hour via the N71 and R586. Park at St Bartholomew's churchyard.

By bus

No service to the village itself. Bus Éireann and Local Link routes serve Bandon and the Ballineen/Enniskeane area on the R586; from there it is a short drive or taxi north. Realistically you need a car.

By train

No rail in West Cork. The nearest station is Cork Kent, about an hour away by road.

By air

Cork Airport is about 50 minutes east by road. It is the obvious arrival point for the whole of West Cork.