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CLOYNE
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Cloyne
Cluain Uamha, Co. Cork

The East Cork
STOP 08 / 08
Cluain Uamha · Co. Cork

A round tower, a 13th-century cathedral, and the birthplace of Christy Ring - the greatest hurler that ever lived.

Cloyne is a small village in a fertile East Cork valley, about eight kilometres southeast of Midleton and twenty-five from Cork city. The name is Cluain Uamha, the meadow of the cave - there is a limestone cave system under the ground here that runs for kilometres. Two thousand people, give or take, a quiet main street, and two buildings that have been here longer than the village around them.

The story is older than the village. St Colman mac Lenine founded a monastery here in the sixth century, and it grew important enough that the Vikings sailed up to plunder it three times in the ninth. What survives now is the round tower - thirty metres of dark sandstone, one of only two left standing in the whole of County Cork - and St Colman's Cathedral across from it, founded around 1250. The tower lost its stone roof to a thunderstorm in January 1749, which Bishop Berkeley noted in a letter at the time. The shaft is intact.

Berkeley is the famous resident, but the one Cloyne claims hardest is Christy Ring. Born at Kilboy Cross a mile from the village in 1920, he won eight All-Irelands with Cork and is, by wide agreement, the finest hurler the game has produced. His statue stands on the spot where his childhood home was. This is hurling country first and a heritage stop second, and locals will be clear about the order.

Do not come expecting a tourist village. Cloyne has the tower, the cathedral, a pub or two, and a couple of places to eat at the weekend. It is a working village where the heritage happens to be world-class. Midleton ten minutes north has the distillery and the shops; the coast at Ballycotton is a short run southeast. Cloyne is the quiet bit in between, and better for it.

Population
~1,967 (2022)
Founded
Monastery founded by St Colman mac Lenine, 6th century
Coords
51.8618° N, 8.1222° W
01 / 08

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 08

The pubs.

None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:

Harty's Bar & Restaurant

Family-run, music at the weekend
Pub & restaurant, Church Street

In the heart of the village on Church Street. Family-run, trad session on a Thursday and live bands most weekends, a beer garden out the back. It does the double job of bar and kitchen - tapas Friday and Saturday evenings, a Sunday lunch that goes on into the afternoon. If you are stopping in Cloyne for a pint and a plate, this is the one.

The Rock

Spacious local, weekend music
Bar, Rock Street

On Rock Street, a roomier modern pub with live music at the weekend, a beer garden and a bar-food menu. The other option in the village for an evening pint.

03 / 08

Where to eat.

PlaceTypeLocal note
Harty's Bar & Restaurant Pub restaurant, Church Street €€ The kitchen sources locally - fresh fish off the Ballycotton boats, organic lamb, beef from the area. Food served Thursday to Sunday, tapas on the Friday and Saturday evenings, Sunday lunch from midday. Check the days before you build a trip around it; it is not open all week.
04 / 08

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

Tenth century, struck by lightning, still standing

The round tower

The round tower beside the cathedral is about thirty metres high, built of dark purple sandstone sometime around the tenth or eleventh century as part of St Colman's monastic settlement. It is one of only two round towers surviving in County Cork - the other, at Kinneigh, is ruined. On the night of 10 January 1749 a violent thunderstorm destroyed the stone vault at the top; Bishop Berkeley wrote to a friend a few weeks later that "our Round Tower stands where it did but the little stone arched vault on top" was gone. A flat castellated parapet was added later in its place. The interior is not open - the stairs inside are too narrow - but you can walk around the base and look up at a thousand years of persistence.

The greatest hurler the game has produced

Christy Ring of Cloyne

Nicholas Christopher Michael Ring was born at Kilboy Cross, less than a mile from Cloyne, on 30 October 1920. Over twenty-four years in the Cork senior jersey, from 1939 to 1963, he won eight All-Ireland medals and eighteen Railway Cup titles with Munster, and to most who saw him or argue about him since he is simply the best hurler that ever lived. The bronze statue in the village, by Yann Goulet, was unveiled by Jack Lynch on 1 May 1983 on the site of the house Ring grew up in. He died in 1979. Cloyne GAA still plays in his red and black, and the village has produced more Cork hurlers since, including the goalkeeper Donal Og Cusack.

To be is to be perceived, worked out in East Cork

Berkeley's eighteen years

George Berkeley, born in Kilkenny in 1685, was Bishop of Cloyne from 1734 until 1752 and lived in the village through most of it. His philosophy - that material things exist only insofar as they are perceived, esse est percipi - was already written by the time he arrived, but he spent his Cloyne years on practical matters, tar-water cures and the welfare of a poor diocese, as much as metaphysics. He is remembered in a monument in St Colman's Cathedral. The city of Berkeley in California, and the university there, are named after him for a line he wrote about empire travelling westward. He left Cloyne for Oxford in 1752 and died there the following year.

John Brinkley, buried in the cathedral

The astronomer-bishop

Cloyne's other bishop worth knowing was John Brinkley, the first Royal Astronomer of Ireland, who held the see from 1826 until his death in 1835. Before Cloyne he ran Dunsink Observatory outside Dublin and pushed the measurement of stellar parallax further than anyone had managed. He is entombed in St Colman's Cathedral, a few feet from Berkeley's monument - two bishops of a small Cork village who between them argued about the nature of perception and measured the distance to the stars.

05 / 08

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

The cathedral and round tower The two great buildings face each other across the centre of the village. Walk the base of the round tower, then into St Colman's Cathedral - open in daylight hours, ask for the keyholder if it is locked - to find Berkeley's monument and Brinkley's tomb. The nave is ramped and accessible.
Short village loopdistance
30-45 mintime
Village heritage stroll Take in the Christy Ring statue, the tower, the cathedral and the quiet main street. The Cloyne Literary and Historical Society runs guided heritage walks in the warmer months and talks through the winter if you want it filled in properly.
2 km loopdistance
45 mintime
06 / 08

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar-May

Quiet, the light improves, the valley greens up. Heritage walks start as the weather turns.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun-Aug

Warmest, busiest on the coast nearby, and the cathedral is reliably open. Combine with Ballycotton or Ballymaloe down the road.

◉ Go
Autumn
Sep-Oct

The hurling championship climax matters here. Soft light on the tower. Still quiet.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov-Feb

Short days and the kitchen at Harty's keeps reduced hours. Check opening times before travelling. The tower stands in all weathers.

◐ Mind yourself
07 / 08

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Expecting to climb the round tower

You cannot. The interior stairs are too narrow and it is not open to the public. You walk the base and look up - which is plenty.

×
Turning up midweek expecting food and a session

Harty's serves food Thursday to Sunday and the music is weekend-led. Arrive on a Monday or Tuesday and the village is genuinely quiet. Plan around the open days or eat in Midleton.

×
Treating Cloyne as a half-day on its own

It is the tower, the cathedral, the statue and a pub - an hour or two, honestly. Pair it with Midleton's distillery, Ballymaloe, or the Ballycotton cliffs to make a proper day.

×
Looking for accommodation in the village

There is little to none in Cloyne itself. Base yourself in Midleton, Shanagarry around Ballymaloe, or on the coast at Ballycotton and visit from there.

+

Getting there.

By car

From Cork city take the N25 east to the Midleton turn, then the R629 south through Ballinacurra to Cloyne - about 25km, 30 to 35 minutes. Midleton is 8km north, Ballycotton 8km southeast on the same R629.

By bus

Bus Éireann route 240 (Cork - Midleton - Cloyne - Ballycotton) stops in the village, several services daily. From Cork it is a little under an hour via Midleton.

By train

Midleton, 8km north, is the nearest station - on the commuter line into Cork city (Kent Station). No rail in Cloyne itself; take the 240 bus or a taxi the last stretch.

By air

Cork Airport is about 30km west, roughly 40 minutes by car. Dublin is around three hours.