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MAGHERAFELT
CO. DERRY · IE

Magherafelt
Machaire Fíolta

The Mid Ulster
STOP 09 / 09
Machaire Fíolta · Co. Derry

A Salters' plantation town built around a Diamond, with Heaney country starting six miles up the road.

Magherafelt is a town that wears its plantation history on its street plan. The Worshipful Company of Salters of London were granted twenty-three thousand acres here in 1618, and their first agent — a man called Baptist Jones — laid out the settlement around a central Diamond. The 1641 rebellion burnt the lot to the ground, the Salters rebuilt, and four hundred years later the Diamond is still the Diamond. Walk a hundred yards in any direction and you've left the planned town and entered the parish.

What it actually is now: a market town of about nine thousand people, council seat of Mid Ulster, halfway between Belfast and Derry on the A6. The mix is roughly six-to-three Catholic-to-Protestant by background, and unlike louder parts of the North the two communities mostly get on with the same Friday-night business. There's a Presbyterian congregation that goes back to the early 1700s, a Church of Ireland — St Swithin's — out on the Cookstown Road, and a Catholic parish that keeps the school numbers up.

The reason a visitor ends up here is usually Heaney. Mossbawn farm — where the poet was born in 1939 — sits between Castledawson and Toomebridge, six miles south. Bellaghy, where he chose to be buried, is six miles east. The HomePlace centre in Bellaghy is the destination, but Magherafelt is the town that fed those farms, and the alleyway sculpture by the bus station — silhouettes walking under the rooks of 'Route 110' — is the local's pilgrimage. Stay here, drive to Bellaghy in the morning, walk Lough Beg in the afternoon. That's the trip.

Population
9,071 (2021)
Walk score
The Diamond and back in fifteen minutes
Founded
Salters' plantation grant, 1618
Coords
54.7561° N, 6.6075° W
01 / 09

At a glance.

Three things every local will eventually mention. Read these and you've already understood more than most day-trippers do.

02 / 09

The pubs.

None of these are themed Irish pubs, because they don't need to be. A few that earn the trip:

Bryson's Bar

Locals and food
Pub & restaurant on Church Street

Church Street pub with a function room and a kitchen that does proper pub food. The locals' choice for a midweek pint and a steak.

Mary's Bar

Old-school
Diamond pub

On the Diamond. The kind of bar where conversation does the work that television does elsewhere. Pint and a packet of crisps territory.

03 / 09

Where to eat.

PlaceTypeLocal note
Church Street Brasserie Brasserie & restaurant €€ 23 Church Street. The town's grown-up dinner option — full menu, early-evening menu, Sunday lunch. Where Magherafelt goes when it's marking an occasion.
Laurel Villa breakfast Guesthouse breakfast €€ Not really a restaurant — but the Kielt family's breakfasts at Laurel Villa, with herbs from their own kitchen garden, do more for the town's reputation than most cafés. Stay there to qualify.
04 / 09

Where to sleep.

PlaceTypeLocal note
Laurel Villa Townhouse Boutique 4-star guesthouse An 1874 townhouse on the edge of the centre. Four en-suite rooms, each named after an Ulster poet. The Kielts are the unofficial Heaney guides — Eugene runs guided tours of the poet's south Derry. Booked out around Heaney HomePlace events; book ahead.
05 / 09

Stories & lore.

The reason to come back. The things every local will eventually tell you about, usually after the second pint.

How a London livery company built a town

The Salters' plain

When James I divvied up Ulster after the Flight of the Earls, the Worshipful Company of Salters drew the lot that ran from Lough Neagh's north-west shore up to the Vintners' and Drapers' lands. They got the grant in 1618 — twenty-three thousand acres, fifty-five townlands, more forest than they knew what to do with — and sent over an agent called Baptist Jones to make a town of it. He laid out a Diamond, named it Magherafelt after the Irish parish around it (Machaire Fíolta — Fíolta's plain, after a forgotten monk), and started selling leases. The 1641 rebellion put the torch to the lot. They came back, rebuilt, and the Diamond's been the Diamond ever since.

Heaney's bus and the Magherafelt alleyway

Route 110

There's a poem in Heaney's last collection called 'Route 110' — the number of the bus he caught from Magherafelt to Bellaghy as a young man. There's now a sculpture in an alleyway near the Magherafelt bus station: silhouettes of figures walking towards the buses, with the 'agitated rooks' from the poem flying just above their heads. It is, characteristically, not on the tourist map. Ask in the Bridewell tourist office on Church Street and they'll point you to it. Two minutes' walk. You'll have it to yourself.

Courthouse, jail, library, in that order

The Bridewell

The Bridewell on Church Street was built as a courthouse and gaol in 1804 — bridewell being the old British-and-Irish word for a holding prison. It did duty as both for most of the nineteenth century. Magherafelt's branch library opened inside its walls in 2002, and the tourist information desk runs out of a corner of it. Walking tours led by a man in town crier dress leave from outside on heritage open days. The cells are still there.

Mid Ulster's third capital

Council seat

When the 2015 local government reorganisation collapsed twenty-six councils into eleven, Magherafelt was merged with Cookstown and Dungannon into Mid Ulster District Council. None of the three towns wanted to lose its civic offices, so all three kept theirs. The Magherafelt offices are on the Ballyronan Road, the Cookstown ones on Burn Road, and Dungannon's on Circular Road. Three sets of letterhead, one council, a lot of inter-town driving.

06 / 09

Things to do outside.

Wear waterproofs. Bring a sandwich. Tell someone where you're going if it's the mountain.

The Heaney alleyway and Diamond loop Bridewell on Church Street, up to the Diamond, round the back lanes to the bus station and the Route 110 sculpture. Short, but it's the town's actual story rather than its postcard.
1.5 kmdistance
30 mintime
Springhill House (Moneymore) Not in Magherafelt itself — the National Trust's 17th-century plantation house sits a mile south-east of Moneymore on the B18, which is twelve kilometres south of town. Walled garden, costume collection, woodland walk. The closest properly-furnished plantation house you can walk into.
Drive 12 km southdistance
Half daytime
Bellaghy and Lough Beg Drive to Bellaghy, see the HomePlace, walk down to the Strand at Lough Beg — the flat shoreline behind Mossbawn that runs through the poetry. Heaney is buried in Bellaghy churchyard. Pay your respects on the way back.
Drive 10 km east, then 4 km on footdistance
Half daytime
07 / 09

When to go.

There is no bad time. There are different times.

Spring
Mar–May

The Sperrins greening up to the south, Lough Neagh thawing out to the east, and the HomePlace garden in Bellaghy starting to look like its photographs.

◉ Go
Summer
Jun–Aug

Long evenings, the Diamond busy on Thursdays, and the Heaney pilgrimage hits its stride. Book Laurel Villa weeks ahead.

◉ Go
Autumn
Sep–Oct

The right season for this place. Heaney country is autumn country — the rooks, the bog cotton gone over, the light low across the fields. Read 'Route 110' before you come.

◉ Go
Winter
Nov–Feb

A working town in winter does what working towns do — keeps its head down. Some attractions cut hours; the pubs and the council carry on regardless. The Glenshane Pass on the A6 can shut for snow.

◐ Mind yourself
08 / 09

What to skip.

Honestly? Don't bother.

If a local was sitting beside you, this is the bit where they'd lean in.

×
Doing Magherafelt as a day trip from Belfast

It's a forty-five-minute drive, you'll spend an hour in town, and then the Heaney country you actually came for is starting to close. Stay a night. Bellaghy in the morning makes the trip.

×
Looking for Salterstown Castle

There isn't one any more, and what there was sat on the Lough Neagh shore at Salterstown townland — not in Magherafelt town. The Diamond is what the Salters left here.

×
The Diamond on a wet Tuesday

It's a market square. The market is Thursday. Pick a Thursday and there's something to see; pick a wet Tuesday and you've come to look at a roundabout.

×
Driving through to Cookstown without stopping

Most Belfast–Derry traffic does exactly that on the A6 bypass. Pull off, do the Bridewell and the Heaney alleyway in an hour, then carry on. The town earns the half hour.

+

Getting there.

By car

Belfast to Magherafelt is 1h on the M2 and A6 (45 miles). Derry is the same distance the other way (40 miles, 1h on the A6 over the Glenshane Pass). The A6 dual carriageway upgrade has cut the run from both directions.

By bus

Translink Goldline 212 (Belfast–Derry) stops at Magherafelt buscentre several times daily. Local Ulsterbus 110 to Antrim, 127 to Ballymena and Bellaghy.

By train

No station. Nearest is Antrim (24 km, 30 min by bus or car) or Castlerock on the north coast.

By air

Belfast International (BFS) is 35 minutes south. Belfast City (BHD) is an hour. City of Derry (LDY) is an hour west.